FJ62 OEM inline 6pack, worth keeping?? (1 Viewer)

Dynosoar

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Do his to check the codes
  • Turn the ignition switch “ON”. DO NOT START ENGINE
  • Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector.
  • Read the diagnostic code as indicated by the number of flashes of the “Check Engine” warning light.
 
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Thanks for all he advise. This is my is mu TDL

This weekend, not in any praticular order.
-Check and adjust throttle cable and kick down plate.
-Clean Throttle plate
-Clean manafold
-Check for any codes the rig is throwing.

Next week, after hunting down a few parts
-Replace Injectors
-Have Transsmition serviced and potentialy adjusted.

Long Term
-H55F 5 speed manual transmission swap.
 

Dynosoar

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Just as a reference my 3FE 5speed FJ40 will chirp the 33" mud terrains on dry pavement. The 60 is a bit heavier so results may vary.
 

4Cruisers

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Just as a reference my 3FE 5speed FJ40 will chirp the 33" mud terrains on dry pavement. The 60 is a bit heavier so results may vary.
Surprisingly (but maybe not), I can get the same results in my '01 Silverado 2500HD regular cab long bed pickup, which weighs a lot more than a 60-Series. Gotta love the 496 CI V8 mated to the ZF S6-650 six-speed manual transmission with NP261 transfer case, and 4.11 differentials.
 
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Just as a reference my 3FE 5speed FJ40 will chirp the 33" mud terrains on dry pavement. The 60 is a bit heavier so results may vary.

I can chirp the tires on my FJ62 5 speed + 3FE, 33" KO2s, if I drop the clutch. Pretty sure that's not possible on the automatic straight off the assembly line though.
 
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This kind of sounds like a torque converter problem to me. Do you have a temp gauge for your tranny? Has the tranny overheat light gone off? While heat is not the only indicator of a failing torque converter it is one of the signs. No take off power/bogging is also one. Poor mileage is another.
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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Multiple users have suggested you check / adjust the throttle position sensor...... it is not on your list...... get a copy of the FSM (factory service manual) and put it at the top of your list.
 
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Do his to check the codes
  • Turn the ignition switch “ON”. DO NOT START ENGINE
  • Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector.
  • Read the diagnostic code as indicated by the number of flashes of the “Check Engine” warning light.
I did this, thanks for the tip: the engine light is flashing 1-5-1-5. Is this a code “51”?
 

Dynosoar

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Here are the codes

3FE Diagnostic Codes 1.jpg


3FE Diagnostic Codes 2.jpg
 
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Multiple users have suggested you check / adjust the throttle position sensor...... it is not on your list...... get a copy of the FSM (factory service manual) and put it at the top of your list.
I did this, thanks for the tip: the engine light is flashing 1-5-1-5. Is this a code “51”?
I think it is a “15” now that I read more.
 
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For sure. Will be checking this again. Just had it reset three weeks ago. The mechanic working on it told me it was throwing the same code, and he was able to clear it.

He tells me the mass air sensor unit attached the air box may be responsible. In which case it has to be rebuilt. Sound right?
 
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Update. Using a pro tip, I used a jumper wire on the Check Connector, TE1 to E1. YEP! Throwing a 51 code. Thanks Dynosour!!

This code addes up considering the lack of throttle response. Its also frustrating because I had the TPS checked and reset a few weeks ago. I have checked the throttle cable and down plate, all is as it should be. I cleaned them just to be sure. This leaves me with at lease two potential solutions, maybe more. Let me know if any of this is off base or if there are other points of failure that Im not addressing.

1) My TPS is failing. Question, if a new TPS was swapped out, does it need to be manualy synced up in any way? Or will a new unit sync itself up?

2) Being that the TPS was checked and reset a few weeks ago, and assuming the TPS is not failing, my understanding is the mass airflow sensor unit that mounts to the airbox could be to blame as this component and the TPS work hand in hand. I'm told, that if the mass airflow sensor is giving me problems, the best thing to do is to rebuild it. Any thoughts?


This Forum is great, best resource ever!!


Thanks All!
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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There are separate codes for the AFM (vane air flow, not mass air flow). It it was mine, I'd focus on the TPS, it's adjustment, it's connector and the wiring for it.

It's idling properly, and runs strong when you are hard into the throttle, right? It's transitioning off idle into part throttle that's out of whack?

My bet is there is a problem in the idle circuit of the TPS / wiring, and the ECU doesn't "know" you've come off idle until either the circuit says so (way out of adjustment), or other circuits (AFM or variable TPS circuit) convince the ECU that something is wrong and to ignore the idle circuit because you are clearly into the throttle.

The TPS needs to be manually adjusted against the throttle body with a multimeter and a set of shims. This effectively function tests the sensor at the same time. It's laid out in the FSM and not at all hard to do. If the sensor and adjustment checks out, how does the connector look? Any obvious damage to wiring harness as you follow along back to the firewall? I've had a harness with an open circuit to the idle speed control valve located just in front of the TPS, makes sense to me that you could as easily get a break in TPS wires.... would require continuity testing between the TPS connector and the ECU connector to know for sure. The FSM has a complete wiring diagram with color codes and connector pin-outs... if you don't have the FSM yet, hopefully someone can point you to a pdf of it (and the wiring diagram if needed separately). I work from a paper copy myself.
 
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There are separate codes for the AFM (vane air flow, not mass air flow). It it was mine, I'd focus on the TPS, it's adjustment, it's connector and the wiring for it.

It's idling properly, and runs strong when you are hard into the throttle, right? It's transitioning off idle into part throttle that's out of whack?

My bet is there is a problem in the idle circuit of the TPS / wiring, and the ECU doesn't "know" you've come off idle until either the circuit says so (way out of adjustment), or other circuits (AFM or variable TPS circuit) convince the ECU that something is wrong and to ignore the idle circuit because you are clearly into the throttle.

The TPS needs to be manually adjusted against the throttle body with a multimeter and a set of shims. This effectively function tests the sensor at the same time. It's laid out in the FSM and not at all hard to do. If the sensor and adjustment checks out, how does the connector look? Any obvious damage to wiring harness as you follow along back to the firewall? I've had a harness with an open circuit to the idle speed control valve located just in front of the TPS, makes sense to me that you could as easily get a break in TPS wires.... would require continuity testing between the TPS connector and the ECU connector to know for sure. The FSM has a complete wiring diagram with color codes and connector pin-outs... if you don't have the FSM yet, hopefully someone can point you to a pdf of it (and the wiring diagram if needed separately). I work from a paper copy myself.


Thanks for the response. The engine does respond when I’m hard on the throttle, but even then it’s struggling. I am for sure going to zero in on the TPS first. I have a PDF of the FSM. I have also watched a few Youtube videos on the adjustment process. Looks pretty straight forward. I need to buy a set of shims as this seems critical to the calibration. Good point about the wiring. I need to inspect it closely.

I plan to experiment with the TPS this weekend.
Thanks for the advice!
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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The shims are important for getting the adjustment perfect, but for how out of whack your 3fe sounds to be, a proper shim gauge won't be critical for diagnosing.
 

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