FJ62 Ignition Problem - Now I'm spending wildly... (1 Viewer)

[morganism]

clean the coil hold down bolts first, and run that ground from the ignitor case to a good ground.

There was 2 cases of bad ground melting rotors inside the dist cap here in the past couple months, don't add another.

Toyotas use switched grounds, instead of switched hots. That is why there is such a tiny wire thru the key ignition, back to starter.

There is also a starting relay, a re-settable breaker in your main box under steering wheel. after grounding ignitor, try re-setting that with a paperclip, and should work fine for another decade...

ToolsRus points out

"The 1FZ rigs have a ground wire that goes from the fender well to the coil bracket, the intake and the motor lifting bracket, so well grounded."

 

[Frkens]

@morganism it is this screw you're suggesting me to connect to body, right?

 

[Frkens]

Now I've connected that screw directly to the battery and still no result. I saw this picture in a different thread and tested if the top right and left plugs in the diagnose plug had 12V. None of them had. Also I have no engine light.

This indicates that it's the EFI main relay. However... The plug that goes to the high tension coil has 12V. Just tested that too. It doesn't make sense to me anymore. I've gone blind now, and need a second opinion...

 

[flomud]

check the wires off your positive battery terminal , there is a group of wires that run off it that are in a plastic junction capsule , can not remember the proper name of it but there is a short black wire for ignition could be broken on the inside , don t ask me how I know but that was my problem ...

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Fusible links
Could be the shipping company messed them up when they tried to jump start it...

 

[flomud]

wow 89bigblue you know your sh-- that s exactly what caused my short -

 

[morganism]

any of the case screws on the ignitor will work.

You do need to do the coil holder bolts too, and pop the distributor cap, and make sure you still have a rotor in there.

 

[Frkens]

@morganism my rotor doesn't get power. I did the spark test, putting my high tension cable close to body. No spark.

 

[morganism]

Ok, try to turn starter, and visually check dist rotor actually turns. Also check if it is seated all the way down.

homework, for 40's, but good info

Dizzy FAQ

 

[Frkens]

I don't follow. Isn't the rotor in the distributor? Because the problem is before the distributor. I'm thinking (based on advice) the EFI relay og the Main relay which was warm when I took it out.

 

[morganism]

The pickups below the rotor need to pass the pickup to trigger the coil to collapse and send the charge. If rotor isn't turning then it won't send signal. If rotor doesnt turn, then dist gear is broken, and i don't know, but i think that will stop your oil pump from working, so it may well run dry

also check the connectors at the edge of the ECU board, it may not be getting good contact

Emissions Help Needed!

Bad Signal Generator/Pick-Up Coil in the Distributor?

Open Circuit Relay

 

[Frkens]

@morganism nothing looks odd to me besides from the red rust. But I assume that's just the plastic that's worn.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Did you jump past the green plug fuseable link direct to the battery and see if you have power and check engine light ? Mike

 

[Frkens]

@Michael Hanson I checked the fusible link (which has been a headache before), and it's fine! But I do not have an engine light.

 

[Wanna Cruz]

post #5 in this thread:
'91 won't start 3fe

Has a link to the 3fe no start flowchart

No check engine light with key in the on position before starting is a big red flag

The 3fe was also used in the early 80 series trucks and sometimes searching there has helped me with my 62

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, How did you check the fuseable link ? Mike

 

[73tlcv8]

Curious if any of you found the problem. This happened to me and it was a bad distributor pickup. It was intermittent until it just died, it didn't throw any codes on the CEL.

 

[morganism]

Did you clean and reseat the coil holdown bolts on the body yet?

there may be a square capacitor for engine noise for the radio attached to one.

 

[emac]

I had this exact same issue. My 88 FJ62 would run great and then all of a sudden die. It would turn over and not start. Eventually I could get it back started again most of the time. It turned out to be a corroded temp sensor at the thermostat. I ASSUME that this is the water temp sensor for the fuel injection and when it is not connected the FI doesnt fire. I figure it out when I got the car running and started jiggling wires looking for something loose, as soon as I touch that wire it died. Replaced the connector and it has fired every time since. Lucky find for me. Hope it helps someone else!

 

[Frkens]

Hey everyone thanks for all your great input.

@Michael Hanson I checked the fusible link by measuring the plug on the picture below. It connects to the ignition coil, and it has 12V.
@Wanna Cruz Thanks, I just printed the pages. What I get from them is that I need to do a thorough check of the ECU because I have no Check Engine Light.
@morganism Yes I did clean the hold-down bolts, but I didn't connect them to the negative pole of the battery. I'll try that next.
@73tlcv8 Nope, haven't found it yet, but I am going to. That's a promise! I just drove the car from LA to Argentina and shipped it to Denmark. There is no way it's not getting back on the road

The story of the car is that I just received it from the shipping company. It's been underway for two months. I imagine that when it has gone through customs, they have checked it pretty thoroughly and probably pulled some cables aside.

That is the only reason that makes sense to me. So I will do a thorough check of the ECU (measure every single pin), and every connection too. The car hasn't moved besides from being driven on the ship and off the ship. And the guys working at the port have probably cranked it a million times with external power because the battery was dead. Something might be broken from that. I have no Check Engine light, so as I understand it, it doesn't make sense to check anything else but the ECU until I have a check engine light. Agree?

Next I'll try:
1. Connect the hold down bolts of the ignition coil to the negative pole of the battery.
2. Do the test from the 3FE repair manual in chapter FI28. Basically I will check every single terminal switch in connected to the ECU. Hopefully that'll narrow it down for me.