FJ62 H55F conversion; minor parts?

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Spook50

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So long story short, I found a complete H55F w/ manual shift converted FJ62 tcase and all parts I need for the conversion (including new clutch) for half the price I was planning on having to spend on the job. Gonna get a deposit off to the guy (not saying who until the stuff is in my garage because I don't want anyone callig him and offering twice what he offered me the setup for, HA! He knows who he is and how psyched I am to get it).

Anyhoo, I'm just curious what minor parts I should get ready for when I do the job. I'm figuring at least the release fork boot, pilot bearing and a new throwout bearing. Anything else I should keep at the front of my mind so I don't hit a snag? He's sending me all the major parts I need. Tranny/tcase combo, clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, floor hump, shifters, master & slave cylinders and hydraulic plumbing, and I already have a brake/clutch pedal assembly. Anything else I'm going to need?
 
Drive shafts and tranny support. Need to start thinking about how you are going to fab up the support brackets. Your carpet will need to be modified, the cut outs will be different on the hump and you'll loose the left foot rest. Need some sheet metal to fill in the hole that is not in the removable part of the hump.
 
I had thought that the H55F with tcase adapter was the same length as an A440F so no driveshaft modification would be necessary :confused:

I've got good condition 62 factory carpet in my storage unit, so I'll take that to an upholsterer to have the hole for the automatic shifter patched once I get a new hole cut for the manual shifter.
 
I believe it's the post '85 FJ60 with 4 speed/ spacer that the drive shafts work. Not sure about pinion flanges though?
 
Check Toyota for the fj60 firewall clutch hard line. It is about $15 for a new CNC bent line.
 
Check Toyota for the fj60 firewall clutch hard line. It is about $15 for a new CNC bent line.

Already got one of those on the way :D

Looks like I'll have to measure when I get the tranny and see if I'm going to have to do any driveshaft modification. Hopefully the local shop can do it in the space of a couple days.
 
You can get some donor carpet from under the rear seat. You dont need much and if you look at it, you can get it from where youll never see it- I got mine from right next to the seat belt anchor points then they can stich it in or I did mine with double sided tape- tape works ok but not great.

I put a tuffy in with drink holders and took the mounting bracket that I did not use and flipped it making a holder of sorts- I put a pic up shortly- That help a little to cover up the hole as well
 
Spoo -

I'll take your dead pedal if you decide to eliminate it.

Also, any speedo shop can shorten your cable.
 
pics of carpet fix and tray
Land Cruiser 003.jpg
Land Cruiser 002.jpg
 
pics of carpet fix and tray

SWEET! I'll have space to put a tray for my french fries in! It'll be nice to be able to center my cupholder on my Tuffy, too....

Steve are you talking about the footrest? If that's it, I'll send it to you as soon as I pull it.
 
Looks like I'll have to measure when I get the tranny and see if I'm going to have to do any driveshaft modification. Hopefully the local shop can do it in the space of a couple days.
you don't hafta wait and see on the d-shafts. The A440 is about 6" longer than the H55, so a pair of new shafts from 85-87 FJ60 is needed. The tranny crossmember also moves forward a similar amount, requiring some cutting & welding. The shorter speedo cable is not a requirement, just something that's nice to grab while all the other parts are being scavenged from the donor FJ60.
 
you don't hafta wait and see on the d-shafts. The A440 is about 6" longer than the H55, so a pair of new shafts from 85-87 FJ60 is needed. The tranny crossmember also moves forward a similar amount, requiring some cutting & welding. The shorter speedo cable is not a requirement, just something that's nice to grab while all the other parts are being scavenged from the donor FJ60.

The late-60 crossmember can't just be bolted in in place of the FJ62 member?
 
The crossmember needs to move forward by about 6" (using Jim C as a reference) Like you, I'm procuring parts and getting my head around logistics. Difference for me is that I'm assembling the drive line into a JDM frame that once held a 12H-T/ H55. The crossmember is still intact and definitely forward of where my 440 sits. Being that this frame is late model, I also need the 3F bell housing with the 7* rotation otherwise I would have to cut and twist the existing crossmember (if using a 2F bellhousing).
 
The late-60 crossmember can't just be bolted in in place of the FJ62 member?
No, there are L-brackets welded to the frame tobolt up the X-member.

The L-brackets are the same, but they are located 6" forward/aft for use H55/A440.

There are several possible ways to deal w/ this:
1. grind brackets off 62 frame, move forward and weld back on.
2. grind brackets from the donor 85-87 FJ50 frame, weld to 62 frame, leaving old brackets in place on 62.
3. Cut brackets out of angle iron and weld to 62 frame
4. cut brackets out of angle and bolt to 62 frame.
 
No, there are L-brackets welded to the frame tobolt up the X-member.

The L-brackets are the same, but they are located 6" forward/aft for use H55/A440.

There are several possible ways to deal w/ this:
1. grind brackets off 62 frame, move forward and weld back on.
2. grind brackets from the donor 85-87 FJ50 frame, weld to 62 frame, leaving old brackets in place on 62.
3. Cut brackets out of angle iron and weld to 62 frame
4. cut brackets out of angle and bolt to 62 frame.

Damn, that's something I hadn't bargained for. In that case, I'll see about cutting some beefy L brackets out of some good steel and bolting them onto the frame with some grade-8 bolts, then removing the 62 brackets. I still don't have my garage wired up for a welder (or have the welder itself) so I'll go the bolt-on route. I think I can make it plenty beefy though.
 

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