FJ62 Gas tank cargo area question. Found a leak, found a whole, what's what? (1 Viewer)

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NW NJ and Western MA
OK, so I filled up the truck - topped it off for good measure, or so i thought. I was in an area where gas was a bit cheaper and tossed in a topped off tank of premium. Now, after that, leaving the truck running on a warm day had gas leaking off the rear diff.

Got her back home and had assumed too much gas in the tank - too topped off. I emptied out the cargo area, pulled the carpet back, pulled the two screws for the access plate, looked under, nothing but smell, but no visible fuel.

It was then that I looked over just to the right of that access plate and noticed some sticky rubber and fought to peel it back. Well, apparently one of the PO's had cut a nice sized hole out of the cargo floor. Son of a ...

So I peeled back the metal that was under the rubber (just to the right of the access plate). Under there I saw the hard fuel lines go into the big circular plate. Now my questions are:

1 - Under the actually access plate, there is a small circular plate that looks to be in good shape. What is it? Fuel pump? It has a few wires on it.
2- Under the darned home made "peel back the cargo bed" access part, there is a larger circular plate - that has the two tubes that look to be lines (feed/return) and the lines connecting to the plate look good. Is that the fuel pump and the smaller one is a sending unit?
3- the larger plate under the cut section had some goopy mess that came right out. I assume some sort of aged caulk/gas resistant mess that a PO had done and now leaks. I left that larger plate alone as I saw 4 out of 7 screws were entirely missing. Jeeez.

Thoughts?

I've always felt that since I only start the truck every few weeks it's just not primed so I've learned to just key the ignition just before start 3 times, then go for ignition. Another thing was that when looking at the cut open section, at the big plate with the fuel lines, I disconnected and reconnected the grey 2-wire jack/coupling/clip and the engine would go to stall and when I reconnected it the engine would race. Other things I've noticed in my year or two tenure wit this truck is that when the tank is full it reads full, when reading empty it is actually half full.

So with answers to the above questions on confirming what is what, what the thoughts of the collective mud are and my other observations as they stream in, what do I do to seal up the big black plate with the missing screws. I left it all alone since I can move the truck and do not want to immobilize it if I have to wait for parts. I siphoned gas off and will only run it 3/4 full or less. It's a farm truck with plates so gets minor local road use. I just don;t want to get all hopped up buying all new components. perhaps since things are working, but not sealed, per se, that I can fix it for a year or so with some better caulk or gasket or something.

The truck is 200 miles from me now as i write this. Sorry I'll provide more info from memory on request. I have a funky PDF manual with me but the FSM is of course, in the truck near the tools to fix the truck.

Sorry for the wall of text and if it seems rambling. Been a very long week and a few beers while a take a break from some late night work. Forgot to snap pics of course.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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I'm def no mech and I'm sure some of the others on the forum can tell you much better... But I had to have my tank replaced because it was leaking and my mech made sure to order a sending unit. I think that's what your looking at.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Sorry... And the wires I believe are part of what gives your gas gauge it's reading. When my tank was replaced my gauge was pretty much on zero until we fiddled with the white sensor and then I was back in business.
 

3_puppies

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the factory hole is the access to the fuel sender.
the home made hole is the access to the fuel pump, should be electric in the tank, FJ62. it's easier to get to the pump that way than to drop the tank.
 

Living in the Past

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My guess the leak may have something to do with the fact some of the little screws that seal the pump to the top of the tank are missing. Not only does this make it hard to get a good seal those holes go thru into the tank. Over fill the tank and gas can get out those small holes. Don't you just love PO. They cut a hole in the floor to make it easy to change the fuel pump and can't even get all the screws back. When I changed my fuel I was able to just lower the tank and replace the pump thru the sending unit hole and managed to get all the little screws in. I even installed the missing bolt on a fuel lines from when Toyota replaced the tank under the recall. Owned the cruiser since it was a couple years old and the PO always had it serviced at a Toyota dealer so I know it was them who left it out. My thinking on the plate in the back was prior to the 88 FJ62 model Toyota used a mechanically fuel driven of the cam shaft. The inspection plate was for the sending unit. The FJ40 had the inspection plate from 1979 when the tank was moved to under the tub. By 1988 Toyota was probably well into the design stages of the next wagon (80 series) and didn't pay to close attention to the fact the 3FE their started using in some markets now had a electric fuel pump in the tank.:whoops: From my understanding the 80 and 100 series have a plate to replace the fuel pump without pulling the tank.

FYI Unless your FJ62 has been rewired the fuel pump will not prime the fuel system when the key is turned to on like it will in other vehicles. It has to see air flow thru the main air flow sensor first. When you turn the key to start the pump will runs but only stays running when your let it off start if it sees air flow.
 

Ming89FJ62

Pig farmer extraordinaire
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Palatine, IL
 
 
 
 
About 2 years ago Ming started leaking gas, dripped from the rear differential. Noticably more right after filling the tank. Couldn't see much except the fuel was dripping along the tank onto the rear pumpkin. After dropping the tank I discovered that the supply nipple on the fuel pump bracket had rusted through (damn road salt). Fuel pump was fine so I replaced the bracket (#10) fuel lines, speed clamps and reinstalled the tank. Just a thought.
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Joined
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It takes 2 hours to pull a tank and replace the fuel pump. Cutting another hole in your floor lets gas ,dirt and bugs in. Hard to resell ,2 cents MIke
 

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