would anyone be able to tell me if it's difficult to change the rotors, pads and bleed the system of '88 62? i'm kind of newbie to doing my own work.
thanks
thanks
FJ62 front brakes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RaiderFan in NY
- Start date
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Others might think different, but it's not straight forward, but it's not hard either. It's a 21 year old car, and things rust and stick together. You don't just take the caliper off and the rotor falls off. You are halfway into a knuckle rebuild to get the rotor separated from the hub body. Does it really need rotors? Will it need new calipers? Are they as old as the truck?
if you are new, it may be a day long job to get to know your cruiser. Make sure you have all the gaskets/seals and parts needed before you start.
Ex
Do yourself a favor and read in the technical area and do some searches on brakes in the 60/62 forum.
If you are new to doing your own work, you should get with a buddy that has done brake work (successfully) before to mentor you during the experience. Even better if it is a Cruiser Head that has been into the axel/brakes a few times.
There are two sub systems on a vehicle where you don't want a screw up. One is the steering system, the other is the brake system. If you can't stop or steer, bad things happen!
Help a brother out mark.
Cruiser Karma is second to none.
And yes you could do this, but as others have mentioned it is not something to learn on. A second set of hands would be greatly appreciated when doing this job.
Cam
Pads and bleeds? easy. Rotor? Not real hard but more tools and possibly a machine shop involved.
I'm pretty interested in this too. I have the front rotors and pads and I'm ready to do the job, but I have little to no experience working on cruisers (civics are my only wrenching history). I have both the FSM and the heavy duty chassis/body manual but I'm not sure which gaskets/seals I should expect to replace. Why a machine shop? I'm thinking this isn't going to be the two hour job I was hoping for.
Never mind, just answered my own question:
you have to
-take the brake caliper off
-take the locking hub cover off
-take the C clip off the axle
-take the locking hub body off
-take the axle hub nuts off (hub socket helps a lot)
-take the hub off (front bearings will fall out) the spindle
then you can
-press out the studs
-take the rotor off
-press in new studs
it is also a good time to change the bearings, if you don't know how old they are, but not ncessary if they are running fine.
definitely change the hub seal and the birfield seal, since it is apart already. to get to the brifield seal you just have to take the spindel off, then pull the axle out.
get a good torque wrench, a seal kit with gaskets, a hub socket, lots of rags, and 2 pounds of grease, and go for it.
you're done in 2 to 3 hours per side...
fun work, actually.
you have to
-take the brake caliper off
-take the locking hub cover off
-take the C clip off the axle
-take the locking hub body off
-take the axle hub nuts off (hub socket helps a lot)
-take the hub off (front bearings will fall out) the spindle
then you can
-press out the studs
-take the rotor off
-press in new studs
it is also a good time to change the bearings, if you don't know how old they are, but not ncessary if they are running fine.
definitely change the hub seal and the birfield seal, since it is apart already. to get to the brifield seal you just have to take the spindel off, then pull the axle out.
get a good torque wrench, a seal kit with gaskets, a hub socket, lots of rags, and 2 pounds of grease, and go for it.
you're done in 2 to 3 hours per side...
fun work, actually.
- Thread starter
- #9
yeah i've got a good friend who's helping me out. he's done some brake work on trucks with manual locking hubs and he knows a lot about tis kind of stuff.
- Thread starter
- #10
i'm out on long island
i recently changed the rotors, calipers, and pads in my 88' FJ62. it wasnt all that difficult, then again i had a buddy that has been wrenching for years help me out. when it was all said an done it took us about 4 hours, i had to replace the lines going into my calipers, the originals were rusted to $#!& but yeah... its not that bad
- Thread starter
- #13
well i'm hoping to that my calipers are fine b/c i saw that they were real expensive. i changed the rear drums about a year ago and the pedal is real spongie.....reeeal spongie. and my brake light just came on but the e-brake is frozen(doesn't work). i checked my brake fluid level and it's ok but verycloudy brown...is this normal?
any help to my questions is appreciated
any help to my questions is appreciated
Brake fluid should be clear. It should be changed out every couple of years or so. If it is brown, it has been in their way too long. Brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture and if not changed on a regular basis can lead to corrosion/rust in your brake system--brown is bad. I encourage you to get some help with your brake project. There are several options available to you. But you shouldn't be learning how to wrench by doing your front brakes. Get a mentor.
First things first.
FLUSH your brake system. Do it the right way flush good fluid through until the fluid coming out runs clear. You can buy speed bleeders to make this easier or just get a friend to help (I'm up in East Northport. If you want to do it here just let me know). Your brakes will never feel like those in a Porsche but they should stop the truck easily.
Also you need to free up your parking brake... it's most likely the levers at the rear brake backing plates - they get frozen up if you don't keep them slathered in grease with good rubber boots intact. You can buy new ones from Toyota if need be.
Gotham City Land Cruisers members get a great discount at Huntington Toyota.
Mark
FLUSH your brake system. Do it the right way flush good fluid through until the fluid coming out runs clear. You can buy speed bleeders to make this easier or just get a friend to help (I'm up in East Northport. If you want to do it here just let me know). Your brakes will never feel like those in a Porsche but they should stop the truck easily.
Also you need to free up your parking brake... it's most likely the levers at the rear brake backing plates - they get frozen up if you don't keep them slathered in grease with good rubber boots intact. You can buy new ones from Toyota if need be.
Gotham City Land Cruisers members get a great discount at Huntington Toyota.
Mark
- Thread starter
- #16
i have a haynes manual for reference. i bought duralast rotors and semi-metallic pads (i was told that it wouldn't make a huge difference by getting something more expensive). I was wondering if i should buy hub bearings and stuff and just replace them while everything is off? or chek them first? is it best for me to buy everything i need so don't get stuck w/o a truck? it's my everyday.
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
This is the best price on oem Koyo Hi Cap bearings.
eBay Motors: Front Wheel Bearings Toyota Land Cruiser 4Runner 4WD (item 190287450909 end time Feb-22-09 20:40:40 PST)
$49.00 + shipping
Does Both Sides
eBay Motors: Front Wheel Bearings Toyota Land Cruiser 4Runner 4WD (item 190287450909 end time Feb-22-09 20:40:40 PST)
$49.00 + shipping
Does Both Sides
Get a real Factory Service Manual... it will pay for itself in short order....
- Thread starter
- #19
i'm pretty sure that i have one somewhere. does it make a difference using those rotors and pads? or not really
Hey let me know what real expensive is .I can get rebuilt calpers for $60.00 if you have a core ,i can get them anytime. I can get rotors for about $30.00 part number prt 1510 bendix global .
