FJ62 electrical issue/ Fusible Link (1 Viewer)

[LCunderhill]

Hey Guys,

Iv'e done all sorts of researching but just couldn't find a similar situation. although many other threads have gotten mt to this point, so thank you!

I have recently had some electrical issues with the truck. Long story Short... It started up perfectly fine from sitting for 2 days then about 30min later I stopped at a store and tried to start it back up and I got nothing. When I turned the ignition key to Acc. or to full start posistion there was no clicking or anything. No dash lights, radio, antenna, etc. There was a faint very low noise of the key chime, but that is it.

So, I had AAA come jump the truck. The truck will run and turn over once you hook up a battery-pack to it. The AAA tech said my battery was dead 290CCA out of 790CCA (blue top optima 2014). I tried letting the truck run for about 1hr to see if the altenator would charge the battery back up but as soon as I shut the truck off and tried to turn it back on the truck was completely dead again no accessories.

The AAA tech mentioned that the alternator was operating correctly... But somewhere somehow it was not charging the battery i guess. I have check all the fuses inside the cabin, non are blown.

Are these symptoms similar to a blown Fusable Link? I know the fuible link is linked to the majority of the componants that are dead on my truck. Im thinkin maybe its the wire leading to the altenator that is blown and its not charging the battery correctly? I just wanted to reach out to fellow Mud members to see if you guys knew of a good next step for me.

@Slow Left I've seen on other threads you are a master at wiring. Didn't know if you have come across this issue before?

Thanks Everyone

 

[gregnash]

Take the battery and have it tested. Many of us have had issues with the Optimas in recent past, if I remember correctly there was some very bad QA coming out of the mexico factory and batteries were prematurely dying or just not holding a charge from before I purchased my truck in 2013 to in the recent year or two.

If you are getting nothing at all that leans more to the bad battery side, if you have a DVM go check the battery and see how many volts it is holding. Or taking it to your LAPS and have them bench test it for you. Fusible link, at least with the 60, there are 3 wires that connect the different electrical systems within the truck, so I do not believe there is one MAIN wire that would shut everything down. From there check your connections to your ALT to see that everything is lining up properly and then go from there.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

More than likely the pos optima battery. Can't tell you how many I have seen go from working to not working I will never recommended an optima battery to anyone.

 

[Output Shaft]

SlowLeft hasn't been seen around these parts for a long long time.
As @gregnash mentioned and tmx & the AAA guy, the battery may likely be toast.

A zorked battery can still show good voltage in its resting state (for a little while), but once a load is placed on it... nothing. Also an alternator can output into it forever, but if the batt is bad, it still won't hold any amps.

Since you can jump the engine and it will run fine once jumped, the electronics are fine. Fusible links are fine. The alternator is fine.

Battery

 

[gregnash]

Oh and I would stay away from getting another Optima. Like I said, the recent track record hasn't been great so I would avoid them like the plague. Another set of bad news is that Sears is no longer carrying the DieHard Platinum, so you can see about Odyssey direct (Diehard Plats) or I would say go with an Interstate AGM.

 

[LCunderhill]

Thanks for the reply guys! @gregnash Didn't think the Optima would die so unexpected... So another issue I forgot to mention above was that the AAA tech mentioned that the truck was drawing power when everything was off. Also my dome light hasn't worked for a long time. Possibly a bad door switch? I have a FSM that would show me how to test that switch.

From reaserching. I've read to disconnect the negative battery cable and place the multi-meter between the positive terminal and negative battery cable to read the continuity. And then go from there I suppose?

 

[roscoFJ73]

And measure the voltage before and after the fusible links. I would also check the ground on the engine block. On a 30 yo landcruiser,they often get a lot of corrosion where they bolt to the engine.

 

[gregnash]

For the battery draw when off, it depends on how much the draw is. Do you have an aftermarket stereo in the truck? Any other accessories like a power inverter or amp or anything? I would definitely figure out what is going on with the dome switch and get that sorted while you are doing things but highly doubt it is drawing enough power to sap the battery.

 

[Output Shaft]

FJ62's have some normal constant parasitic battery drain required to keep the ECU memory alive. But it should be under 90ma.

 

[FJ60Seth]

The AAA guys in my area carry $1000 Midtronics electrical system testers. When they say the battery is bad, I believe them.

 

[LCunderhill]

@gregnash I do have a aftermarket radio... I have some auxilary LED lights on my roof rack. What i will do is get some readings off of the battery with a multi-meter tomorrow and post them up.

@FJ60Seth I'm going to go have the battery bench tested at a local shop to se what they say. But in the meantime I'm going to try to get some numbers off the truck to help diagnose the parasitic draw.

Unfortunately I don't have much time till this weekend to really start diagnosing it. I'll keep ya all posted.

 

[Hokierig]

@LCunderhill Did you ever trace this issue to anything? I'm having a similar problem that I think may be the cause of the wire from the alternator to the positive battery post.

 

[rrv333]

Had the same issue in my 62. It turned out to be my alternator. I'd pull the battery and the alternator and have both tested just for peace of mind.