FJ62 EFI relay failure (1 Viewer)

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@Godwin

Was this done for the replacement to part number 85915-60010? My mechanic says I need to replace 2 relays to get "Nancy" running well again. The 2 are in the front passenger wheel well. I have found part 1 and part 2 on CruiserParts.net but everything I've bought from them in the past has been utter crap. Also, part 1 [85915-60010] is $100 used and part 2 [85910-14020] is $50 used. I am not sure that spending $150 on some used parts from that website is going to be the right move. Let me know what you think, please.

Also, I have a 5 pack of some Bosch-type relays I bought off of Amazon about a month ago. Their description is as follows: "40/30 AMP 12V DC Waterproof Relay & Harness". Could one of these be used for part 1? Your original post indicates yes. What do I do about part 2? Thanks for any and all help with this matter.

"Nancy" is a daily driver and I'd prefer she stopped stalling on me. She has the following new parts: radiator, battery, battery cables and grounds, spark plugs, spark plug cables, distributor cap, ignition rotor, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, air filter, oil filter, starter, oil pressure sender gauge and alternator.

I would not spend the $150 on used electrical parts from Cruiserparts.

When I replaced the EFI main relay 85915-60010 I used a standard Bosch type relay. It's simple enough to wire in that your mechanic should not have any problem doing so. I think the same approach can be used for the Circuit Opening relay 85910-14020. With both of these being discontinued an alternative is needed so do it now instead of plugging in used parts that have an unknown longevity.

I use Waytek Wire for electrical items; here's a relay example that would work TE Connectivity V23234-A1001-X036 High Current Mini Relay | Waytek
 
I would not spend the $150 on used electrical parts from Cruiserparts.

When I replaced the EFI main relay 85915-60010 I used a standard Bosch type relay. It's simple enough to wire in that your mechanic should not have any problem doing so. I think the same approach can be used for the Circuit Opening relay 85910-14020. With both of these being discontinued an alternative is needed so do it now instead of plugging in used parts that have an unknown longevity.

I use Waytek Wire for electrical items; here's a relay example that would work TE Connectivity V23234-A1001-X036 High Current Mini Relay | Waytek
You're awesome. I just got off the phone with my mechanic to 'relay' the message of the findings from this awesome forum. Pun intended. I have received very little bad information from this forum. As a new, ignorant TLC owner, I have a lot to learn if I want to keep this old girl running as smoothly as possible. I'd like to keep her as stock as possible because one day I'd like to trade/sell her for an FJZ80 triple locked. That's way down the line though. First order of business is getting her running confidently, doing some exterior body work and getting her wiring fixed up. There seems to be a parasitic drain related to 2 fuses I've since pulled (the one powering the radio and the one powering the interior lights). Some previous owner wired the radio and/or speakers/sub into other wiring and it's pulling enough to repeatedly drain my battery.
 
@22590FJ62 did you get the EFI main relay replaced? Mind sharing your results? I'm dealing with some rough idling, have eliminated many other potential culprits, and am wondering if this relay could be the problem.
 
@22590FJ62 did you get the EFI main relay replaced? Mind sharing your results? I'm dealing with some rough idling, have eliminated many other potential culprits, and am wondering if this relay could be the problem.
Firstly, my local mechanic is a genius. Most mechanics want nothing to do with 'Nancy' but my guy was stoked to help. He adjusted my timing and replaced my relays with inexpensive Amazon finds. For $25 on Amazon, I got a 5 pack of 40/30 Amp 12 V DC Waterproof relays with harnesses. Each relay that had received water damage over the years was replaced. I also replaced 4 relays above the kick panel under the dash. *These were OEM from ToyotaPartsDeal.com. Last but not least were the throttle position sensor and the throttle body gasket.

*90987-02006
*90987-02004
*90987-01003
*90987-03001
 
Back to the relay. On the FJ62 the relay is located under the hood on the passenger side near the air filter. Since this can no longer be purchased from Toyota I swapped in a Bosch 30 amp relay. I clipped the wires from the dead relay and crimped on some 1/4" connectors. Plug-n-play from there, and it works and cost <$10 instead of $100. A spare will stay in the console.

View attachment 780566

View attachment 780567
 
Back to the relay. On the FJ62 the relay is located under the hood on the passenger side near the air filter. Since this can no longer be purchased from Toyota I swapped in a Bosch 30 amp relay. I clipped the wires from the dead relay and crimped on some 1/4" connectors. Plug-n-play from there, and it works and cost <$10 instead of $100. A spare will stay in the console.

View attachment 780566

View attachment 780567
@Godwin

Was this done for the replacement to part number 85915-60010? My mechanic says I need to replace 2 relays to get "Nancy" running well again. The 2 are in the front passenger wheel well. I have found part 1 and part 2 on CruiserParts.net but everything I've bought from them in the past has been utter crap. Also, part 1 [85915-60010] is $100 used and part 2 [85910-14020] is $50 used. I am not sure that spending $150 on some used parts from that website is going to be the right move. Let me know what you think, please.

Also, I have a 5 pack of some Bosch-type relays I bought off of Amazon about a month ago. Their description is as follows: "40/30 AMP 12V DC Waterproof Relay & Harness". Could one of these be used for part 1? Your original post indicates yes. What do I do about part 2? Thanks for any and all help with this matter.

"Nancy" is a daily driver and I'd prefer she stopped stalling on me. She has the following new parts: radiator, battery, battery cables and grounds, spark plugs, spark plug cables, distributor cap, ignition rotor, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, air filter, oil filter, starter, oil pressure sender gauge and alternator.
Godwin,
I feel a little silly but how do I know what wire from the Toyota factory wire clip goes to what flat peg on the relay?
thank you, zogman
 
Godwin,
I feel a little silly but how do I know what wire from the Toyota factory wire clip goes to what flat peg on the relay?
thank you, zogman
Sorry disregard … I read further they the threads and doing ur post! Thank you very much!
Zogman
 
No Engine light, no spark, no start.... ended up at the EFI Main Switch not seeing conductivity... took it apart and it seems like water got in.

Screen Shot 2022-01-25 at 11.38.28 PM.png


cleaned it up...



 
I would not spend the $150 on used electrical parts from Cruiserparts.

When I replaced the EFI main relay 85915-60010 I used a standard Bosch type relay. It's simple enough to wire in that your mechanic should not have any problem doing so. I think the same approach can be used for the Circuit Opening relay 85910-14020. With both of these being discontinued an alternative is needed so do it now instead of plugging in used parts that have an unknown longevity.

I use Waytek Wire for electrical items; here's a relay example that would work TE Connectivity V23234-A1001-X036 High Current Mini Relay | Waytek
I'm late to this party, but you're exactly right. It's a piece of cake to swap in a standard automotive SPST or SPDT relay in place of the discontinued Toyota ones. Find a way to secure a relay socket, and you'll have an easy way to replace it should you ever have issues down the road, too.
 
Who would be interested in buying a really nice plug-in OEM toyota relay or SSR?
 
Who would be interested in buying a really nice plug-in OEM toyota relay or SSR?
SSRs are still way more expensive (and not really necessary unless in electronic or frequent on-off-on use like windows and door lock solenoids, etc where contact arcing over time could wear a conventional relay out), but an easy plug n' play solution I think would have great marketability for owners of these old rigs.
 
When I replaced the EFI main relay 85915-60010 I used a standard Bosch type relay. It's simple enough to wire in that your mechanic should not have any problem doing so. I think the same approach can be used for the Circuit Opening relay 85910-14020. With both of these being discontinued an alternative is needed so do it now instead of plugging in used parts that have an unknown longevity.
I bought a new Denso circuit opening relay from RockAuto late last year for an affordable price of $30.79 before the MUD discount.
 
I bought a new Denso circuit opening relay from RockAuto late last year for an affordable price of $30.79 before the MUD discount.

That's good to know and I would not have thought to check Rockauto for the relay.
 
That's good to know and I would not have thought to check Rockauto for the relay.
If you're able to source a Denso part on Rockauto, that's a legit OEM Toyota part. Even if it's not listed by browsing to the right section, you might luck out and find it if you know the actual Denso (or Aisin for mechanical) part number and search for that. I've been pleasantly surprised a handful of times.
 
Back to the relay. On the FJ62 the relay is located under the hood on the passenger side near the air filter. Since this can no longer be purchased from Toyota I swapped in a Bosch 30 amp relay. I clipped the wires from the dead relay and crimped on some 1/4" connectors. Plug-n-play from there, and it works and cost <$10 instead of $100. A spare will stay in the console.

View attachment 780566

View attachment 780567
Hello, I would like to ask you a question, the ignition module of my fj 62 gets too hot, do you know where I could find one or with which other model I could replace it?
 

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