fj62 Alternator blowing fuse at high rpm (1 Viewer)

[shane738]

Hello all, I just recently replaced my dizzy and plugs and now for some unknown reason, I am running into this problem.
When idle the car is perfectly fine runs normal but if I sit it on high revs where the alternator should be charging it instantly blows my circuit breaker. I am very confused as beforehand I did not have this problem. The alternator & external volt reg is literally less than 4 months old. I have gone over the wiring and cannot find any damage etc other than the burnt ends from the header being right next to the alternator which I shortened and fixed. I also no longer have any fusible links as everything is either on a fuse block or a circuit breaker such as this alternator.

Your help would be much appreciated yall!

 

[OSS]

I don't know what's blowing the circuit breaker, but removing the fusible links is wreckless.
The cabin blower fan is wired through a breaker and when the blower motor or breaker gets really old, the breaker will pop.

The purpose of a fusible link is to protect the wiring harness and possibly prevent burning down your cruiser in the event of a short typically caused by chafed insulation down stream of the fuse box

 

[Seth S]

What is the voltage it’s charging at?

 

[poptart]

If the fuse that’s blow is the one you used to by pass the fusible links that’s probably your issue. Fuses are fast burns, oppose to fusible links that are slow burn. You could just be getting a spike that pops the fuse, where with a fusible link it would slowly heat up, allowing the spike to pass.

 

[shane738]

What is the voltage it’s charging at?

13V when it's charging

 

[shane738]

I don't know what's blowing the circuit breaker, but removing the fusible links is wreckless.
The cabin blower fan is wired through a breaker and when the blower motor or breaker gets really old, the breaker will pop.

The purpose of a fusible link is to protect the wiring harness and possibly prevent burning down your cruiser in the event of a short typically caused by chafed insulation down stream of the fuse box

A fuse block also protects the harness it literally does the same thing which is what it is ran on.

 

[shane738]

If the fuse that’s blow is the one you used to by pass the fusible links that’s probably your issue. Fuses are fast burns, oppose to fusible links that are slow burn. You could just be getting a spike that pops the fuse, where with a fusible link it would slowly heat up, allowing the spike to pass.

It doesn't make sense though as it was fine for 3 months

 

[Seth S]

You might be getting voltage spikes above 14.4V now and then that are popping the fuse. Whether that’s a normal thing or signs of a regulator going bad I don’t know

 

[shane738]

You might be getting voltage spikes above 14.4V now and then that are popping the fuse. Whether that’s a normal thing or signs of a regulator going bad I don’t know

I hope not it's only new ahaha

 

[vipergrhd]

Measure the amp output at high rpm's and see if you need to upgrade the fuse or just go back to the old fusible link.

 

[shane738]

So I got a new voltage regulator today did all the tests the OEM manual says to test with a multimeter and they were all fine so I put it in and took it for a drive and boom after about 2 minutes driving it popped the circuit breaker again I was watching my volt metre and it only hit 12.9 as it popped but before that was going up two 14v surely it can't be the alternator? I talked to an electrician the other day and he said to stick with the circuit breaker