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- #21
Im from Roanoke but live in Norfolk for school. Ive wanted to wheel it but right now its just a daily driver. Also i was born in 96 and the name fieldtester came from an old hat i had from cabelas
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It was corrosion that caused it, that mixed with fatigue of moving my battery around a couple weeks ago. I mean its a 31 year old vehicle so im surprised a connection exposed to the elements lasted that long. Regardless what else can i do? I have to drive this thing to work every day so ill risk it.Very dangerous to bypass that Fuse link without fixing what caused the blow. You risk car-fire. Just sayin'.
Well still i owe you one, if you had not responded fast i probably would have driven it till the battery died.No beer needed. It's what we do around here.
I'll take @g-man beer i am down in Currituck Nc about an hour awayNo beer needed. It's what we do around here.
Nothing is really like going 45 on a beach in OBX with your buddies driving next to you listing to sabotage by the beasty boysI wish I was an hour away from OBX.
It was corrosion that caused it, that mixed with fatigue of moving my battery around a couple weeks ago. I mean its a 31 year old vehicle so im surprised a connection exposed to the elements lasted that long. Regardless what else can i do? I have to drive this thing to work every day so ill risk it.
Yeah thats what i plan to do but it seems that no stores around here sell that except for granger which i guess could work for the time being. Im gonna try to measure the amperage going through the wiring harness and try to properly size the new wires than just rule of thumb it though. I plan to put back in a connection soon but rebuild the rest since it seems the old wires coating is starting to chip off. You do have a good point id hate to burn my wiring harnessRather than bypass with just solid wire, splice in a 4" section of 18 ga or 20 ga (you need 4x SMALLER than the gauge wire you're protecting) Fusible link wire available cheap at any chain auto parts store. Just me, but I'd rather be safe than sorry over a $3 part.
But I understand your immediate need to get 'er on the road.
Yeah no i know the stock numbers but the thing is my wiring harness has been butchered and dug into, plus there are a few accessories i want to put on so if i want to do it right i can test out the harness under different loads and compare it to what the stock ones are. This way i can make sure its sized right as well as check and see if any other wire is under sized. It honestly has never crossed my mind until today to do this but its probably smart to prevent any of the more expensive parts from blowing up since parts are coming harder and harder to find.In post # 6 @g-man has the schematic with the proper metric (sq mm) FL sizes. The amp ratings:
Also, Cruiser Wiring has a rebuild service (under Fusible Links on the left side of page) for the FL assy (it's NLA), with the proper bits, if you wanna go that route. GL
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Not as fun as it used to be... i use to go to carova beach every weekend sleep on the beach have bonfires run my 88 trx 250r with paddle tires 90mph all over the beach those were the good ol days.Nothing is really like going 45 on a beach in OBX with your buddies driving next to you listing to sabotage by the beasty boys
Thats where i went to, a couple of buddies and i ended up driving around the back sandy roads in 4 wheel drive. Ended having a guy in the backseat not wearing a seat belt smack his head on my roof because i hit a dip in the road to fast. good timesNot as fun as it used to be... i use to go to carova beach every weekend sleep on the beach have bonfires run my 88 trx 250r with paddle tires 90mph all over the beach those were the good ol days.