FJ62 3FE fuel pump in tank to in line

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Aug 4, 2013
Really respect this forum and the advice I'm seen on here. I went through 15 pages of threads when I searched so I apologize if I didn't find the answers.

So I thought I would try to start a definitive thread on this topic.

I've got an Fj62 with in tank fuel pump. It died and I had to change it. Was not fun as there was fair amount of fuel in it. It's not "hard" as you've just got to drop the tank to access the pump from the top. But it is time consuming and would be truly difficult to do on the side of the road or in some remote location.

I know there is the option of cutting open a hatch for access but I don't want to do that.

So I'm thinking of converting to an in line fuel pump. I've had a hard time figuring out why in tank pumps are so popular so that's my FIRST question. I think I know some of the reasons but would love to hear more. They are more quiet, they run cooler, they don't have to work as hard to suck as they are at bottom of tank and simply "push". Anything else??

What are the specs on the OEM pumps??

What PSI do they run??

What flow rate???

I know I could "hack" into the metal supply line and simply use a fuel hose and clamp but would possibly like to keep the connector. Looks like the fuel line is flared and has a compression nut that fits into a nut that is attached to another line.

Anyone know what else I could attach to the compression fitting to convert to -an for example????

Any other better ideas of how to hack into and connect the line other than running another line, ie braided line all the way to the front, etc.

The return line is simply connected with a smooth barb and weak ring clamp. But I'm assuming that is lower pressure.
Hi, All your ideas are good ones on the original pump. Your good for at least another 125,000 miles if you used a oem pump (Denso). Mike
How are you going to change a pump that fast with 3 zombies trying to chomp on my legs??????
Thanks Mike. I have heard that, ie the OEM pumps can last a long time and likely do. But there were other issues that also concerned me.

-- the in tanks screen (sock) was nearly clogged with gunk....again an in tank fix

-- the electrical connector on top were nearly rusted through.......perfect area for salted water to just sit and eat away slowly

I can easily clean the sock and install the new OEM pump but I really, really don't want to do this again, and especially in a more urgent situation.

If it doesn't sound like it's better to do in line then I won't but this just doesn't seem like the best way to do least not to make it serviceable even if service isn't that often.
I have really had no problems with mine , and Ihave replaced a lot of them . I keep detailed records on all our trucks. 125000 seems to be when they go out. However on the fj80 it's still going at 333000 miles. Mike
I found that the fitting are metric compression fittings.

14mm x 1.5 thread.

Pegasus auto racing sells an adapter that goes from that to -6AN

I may be able to actually hook up the OEM system AND an in line system using -an connectors and if one fails simply switch to the other and unplug connectors.

I'm running a MAF long range tank and it has a pickup and return pipe going to 2 bung holes at the end.

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