Fj60 Won't Pass CA Smog (1 Viewer)

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The EGR is pretty simple. Once it is working properly it does not effect driveability, so there is nothing to improve. You can test this simply by shutting off the EGR by blocking its vacuum line and see what effect or lack of effect there is. Be sure to do the experiment blind by having someone else either block if off or not and then test whether you can tell the difference when you don't know whether it is on or off.
 
The EGR is pretty simple. Once it is working properly it does not effect driveability, so there is nothing to improve. You can test this simply by shutting off the EGR by blocking its vacuum line and see what effect or lack of effect there is. Be sure to do the experiment blind by having someone else either block if off or not and then test whether you can tell the difference when you don't know whether it is on or off.
Thanks. I knew about that one. Just wanted to see if there was another one
 
Several years ago I had the same issue as OP. Adjusting the idle mixture screw did not solve my issue. At 2500 rpm testing the main jet becomes the culprit. Going one size smaller on the main jet did the trick for me as I recall.
 
The problem with the 60's EGR is that it comes in too soon, causing a too lean condition, resulting in poor performance. I chased this problem for years, replacing almost everything, with no improvement. I finally mentioned this to Troy and he recalled that Ford had used a vacuum delay module on their ERG systems, which delayed the signal to the EGR by 10 seconds or so. Doesn't need to be a Ford module; I'm sure any delay module will work. The module is installed between the modulator and the EGR signal port. Very simple and vastly improves acceleration response. Before this mod I would simple plug the EGR between smog tests, but I get slightly better mileage using the EGR, and like to keep the NOX under control.
 
The problem with the 60's EGR is that it comes in too soon, causing a too lean condition, resulting in poor performance. I chased this problem for years, replacing almost everything, with no improvement. I finally mentioned this to Troy and he recalled that Ford had used a vacuum delay module on their ERG systems, which delayed the signal to the EGR by 10 seconds or so. Doesn't need to be a Ford module; I'm sure any delay module will work. The module is installed between the modulator and the EGR signal port. Very simple and vastly improves acceleration response. Before this mod I would simple plug the EGR between smog tests, but I get slightly better mileage using the EGR, and like to keep the NOX under control.

This sounds like an awesome modification. What EGR Time Delay did you get, if you don't mind my asking? Also, by EGR signal port do you mean the port coming from the EGR?
 
I'll talk to Troy tomorrow and see if I can get the Ford part number or equivalent. The module is installed in the signal line just before the EGR. I'd take a photo, except I now have a 1HZ diesel. No more smog!
 
I'll talk to Troy tomorrow and see if I can get the Ford part number or equivalent. The module is installed in the signal line just before the EGR. I'd take a photo, except I now have a 1HZ diesel. No more smog!

Awesome. Thank you much. Man I bet that 1HZ is sure fun!
 
I haven't actually gotten to drive it yet, as it is waiting the turbo installation. Georg at Valley Hybrids is doing the work for me. I did get to ride in a identical 85 with the 1HZ-T a while back, and it was awesome. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas...
 
If you want to pass smog, you want that damn EGR valve opening soon and wide. Don't put any vacuum modifier between the modulator and the valve.

If you want smoother acceleration at light throttle (after the smog test) and you want to keep the EGR valve so the engine won't ping, a simple Toyota VTV placed between the EGR modulator and EGR valve can delay its power robbing actuation for a little while.

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Looks very similar to the valve Troy installed and probably will work the same. FYI, my 2F passed smog for many years with the valve installed. By the time the tech has gotten the engine up to the proper test speed and stabilized, the ERG will have reached its proper opening position. However, it's obviously very easy to remove if one wants to be on the safe side.
 
I might try the Oregon move! We'll see. To date I've had the valves adjusted (by a professional mechanic) and I've given it the weekend warrior tune-up, plugs, oil, filters etc... I'll start with the carburator and see what I can do, but I have a feeling I might get over my head quickly. I'll give it a shot though. Are there any landcruiser mechanics in the San mateo area that may be able to bail me out if / when my limited weekend warrior mechanical skills gets me in trouble. And also, thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it all the help.

What did you end up doing? Im in San Jose and need to smog and Im scared!
 
Why not get a pretest and find out what the numbers are before you start worrying.

I've wanted to get a pretest but between work and school I've been too busy. Im still trying to find time to swap out my water pump so its drivable again. The red #6 I was given at DMV expires this week. Guess I'll have to miss a little work.
 
The truth is all I had to do was pretty much replace everything! The original 2F engine which came with the truck had a cracked head among other issues, thus I ended up swapping it with a rebuilt 2F. Rebuilt the carb, new catalytic converter, new exhaust and essentially any and all components which had anything to do with emissions. My case was extreme, I bought a truck sight unseen (not smart to do) which I don't think was smoged in 30 years nor really driven in 10, thus it was rough running to say the least. The good news is it passed. Like I said, my case was extreme. I have a buddy with the same year FJ60 and has had zero issues smogging it. Good luck man!
 
That's actually not all that bad.

Do you really not have a cat? That alone could bring a lot of those numbers down.

What other smog stuff is missing? Has it ever passed in CA?
 
They're not supposed to test if any smog equipment is missing. Even if it's a pretest.

You need to get the proper emission controls installed, at a minimum, to pass. A new CAT will go a long way to improve those numbers since your O2 is very good, and that's usually what makes people fail is an inop Air Inj system.

Pix will help. Do you have the OE Aisan carb ?
 
The truth is all I had to do was pretty much replace everything! The original 2F engine which came with the truck had a cracked head among other issues, thus I ended up swapping it with a rebuilt 2F. Rebuilt the carb, new catalytic converter, new exhaust and essentially any and all components which had anything to do with emissions. My case was extreme, I bought a truck sight unseen (not smart to do) which I don't think was smoged in 30 years nor really driven in 10, thus it was rough running to say the least. The good news is it passed. Like I said, my case was extreme. I have a buddy with the same year FJ60 and has had zero issues smogging it. Good luck man!

When I saw the words, truth is, I really thought you were going to follow up with a cheap simple fix. That sucks in so many ways.
That's actually not all that bad.

Do you really not have a cat? That alone could bring a lot of those numbers down.

What other smog stuff is missing? Has it ever passed in CA?

The guy said it wasn't that bad either considering I don't have a cat. Now I'm wondering if i just have a muffler or a bad cat. I don't think its ever passed in CA but then again I don't really know. I barely bought it in Oregon about 2 months ago.

***I was just informed that I have a muffler and not a cat. What exactly do I do now?

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They're not supposed to test if any smog equipment is missing. Even if it's a pretest.

You need to get the proper emission controls installed, at a minimum, to pass. A new CAT will go a long way to improve those numbers since your O2 is very good, and that's usually what makes people fail is an inop Air Inj system.

Pix will help. Do you have the OE Aisan carb ?

The guy said that other emissions related components was because of the cat so once i got one both categories would be covered. I guess Ill just buy a new cat. They're like $300, right? Thanks for clarifying because between O2, CO2, NO, HC and the rest of the alphabet I just feel stupid.

Just after posting this I was informed that I have a muffler and not a car. Is adding or installing a cat an easy job?

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