FJ60 Timing/Idle issue with webber carb and smog

[eastendmedic]

My 60's PO installed a webber carb (2f engine) and has left all of the smog components in place. When I did the emmission's testing it failed over and over again....finally got it stickered and now it seems to be very rough when started, the whole engine really shakes back and fourth until warmed up, the curb idle is set to around 700 when warm, I pulled the vac adv. to the distrib. and checked the timing....the timing mark in the window seems to be about 1/2" above the 0 mark.....could this be the problem.....or could the timing be advanced to compensate for the carb not being stock? Once warmed up the truck runs great, plenty of power, however 1 out of 3 times I get post ignition and have to "clutch" stop it. Any pointers on how/what to adjust to remedy this problem. I tried a Vac gauge and was pulling around 17 when warm at idle.....Just looking for some insight....adjust the timing first? Idle screws? WWJD? the J is for Jim C...LOL

 

[Ryan S.]

By the "O" do you mean the 7* BTDC bubble? If that is the case you need to advance the tiiming to that "O" mark, possibly even beyond. If you go too far you will get pre-ignition knock. I don't know what Jim would do, but I would start with the timing.

 

[FJ40Jim]

If the engine is running w/ the EGR disabled, don't advance the timing too much. The stock dissy curve has a bunch of advance, more than enough to give ignition knock at part-throttle.

In order to get the vehicle to pass NOx at 2000RPM, the timing would need to be retarded at idle, which would explain the soggy idle.

There are 3 options here:
1. Finish the de-smog. The EGR, and purge, and fuel vent, and HAC, and decel fuel cut systems are already inop. Remove them and their associated plumbing, recurve the dissy and drive the truck.
2. Drill and modify the Weber carb to have the necessary fittings for EGR, purge, vent. The HAC and fuel cut don't come into play during a typical emissions test, and the HAC doesn't come into play for most drivers.
3. Install a carb that fits & works.

WWJD?
#3

 

[beaufort-fj60]

If the engine is running w/ the EGR disabled, don't advance the timing too much. The stock dissy curve has a bunch of advance, more than enough to give ignition knock at part-throttle.

In order to get the vehicle to pass NOx at 2000RPM, the timing would need to be retarded at idle, which would explain the soggy idle.

There are 3 options here:
1. Finish the de-smog. The EGR, and purge, and fuel vent, and HAC, and decel fuel cut systems are already inop. Remove them and their associated plumbing, recurve the dissy and drive the truck.
2. Drill and modify the Weber carb to have the necessary fittings for EGR, purge, vent. The HAC and fuel cut don't come into play during a typical emissions test, and the HAC doesn't come into play for most drivers.
3. Install a carb that fits & works.

WWJD?
#3

I'd think you're more of a Mosses than a WWJD. Jim/Mosses comes off the mountain every once in awhile and shares the secret desmog laws with the mortals.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Moses, yeah, that's about right. I'll wander the desert for 40 years in my Cruiser and never ask for directions back to the highway.

 

[eastendmedic]

A few Pics....is there anything smog about my carb set up?

I have found one small vac hose and one larger hose plugged...that is it...is this carb really working independently from the whole smog system.....I don't think I can desmog due to emmisions in NY......I don't want to drop a huge nut to cover a new carb...my wife will kill me....I have too many hobbies that cost $$$ and I am not giving up my guns......so is there a way to get it as good as it will get without going the route of replacing the carb....I am a noo B to this cruiser addiction...so thanks for being patient.

 

[eastendmedic]

Another Pic

Pic of Carb

 

[eastendmedic]

Last One

Last One

 

[jb welda]

my experience in california, especially with volkswagens (with porsche motor in it) has been you get it tuned to pass smog, pass smog, and then get it tuned to run well.

maybe thats what needs to be done but im not all that familiar with smogging the 60s stock motor...

one love
jah bill

 

[eastendmedic]

Gotcha

I have a year to mess around with this thing and get it to pass smog next June...so I will probably deal with the smog pump/air rail trick I have seen on Mud! But I want to get this thing to run well now.....it does run great once it is warmed up...however there is some post ignition....it idles very rough at startup until warmed up...thinking maybe electric choke issue?......just trying to get some insight so i can hopefully get it fixed this weekend. I am going to try these steps let me know what you guys think:

1. Warm it up and make sure Idle is set at 650.

2. Adjust timing to the timing marks allign

3. Adjust Idle Screws so I get Max Vac. on a gauge.

4. Pray that it works!

Oppinions?