FJ60 Power Steering Pulley Removal and PS Pump Install (1 Viewer)

[samc2447]

Georg at Valley Hybrids sells the Saginaw conversion kit if you go that route. Kit comes with everything but the pump, which is $50 at autozone. Installed one this weekend. It's a fairly easy swap and costs less than the Toyota replacement if you're not concerned with staying stock.

 

[Gretsch]

I seem to remember the pump shaft had a woodruff key.
Forget the $500 pump. If it comes to that get a Saginaw, under $50. Someone here sells a kit to make it bolt in or I made my own before the kit was available. It's one of the best mods I've made. The steering feel is much nicer. I have about 2500 miles including four wheeling on it now, no leaks from the box or anywhere. Highly recommended.
My Saginaw conversion

So I took a quick look at the Saginaw conversion link you included here. With regards to the hoses, do the fittings fit into the Saginaw pump without modification? Or do you need to use the Saginaw hoses somehow. It seemed like you just reused the Toyota hoses. Sorry at work, and just had time for a quick glance. I am thinking more about the Saginaw conversion. I like the idea of the low cost reliability the Saginaw conversion offers, but still on the fence about moving away from correct Toyota parts just from more of a re-sale standpoint. Thoughts?

 

[Gretsch]

Georg at Valley Hybrids sells the Saginaw conversion kit if you go that route. Kit comes with everything but the pump, which is $50 at autozone. Installed one this weekend. It's a fairly easy swap and costs less than the Toyota replacement if you're not concerned with staying stock.

I PM'ed him for details. Thanks.

 

[opg4759a]

So I took a quick look at the Saginaw conversion link you included here. With regards to the hoses, do the fittings fit into the Saginaw pump without modification? Or do you need to use the Saginaw hoses somehow. It seemed like you just reused the Toyota hoses. Sorry at work, and just had time for a quick glance. I am thinking more about the Saginaw conversion. I like the idea of the low cost reliability the Saginaw conversion offers, but still on the fence about moving away from correct Toyota parts just from more of a re-sale standpoint. Thoughts?

As long as you purchase the correct pump the Toyota high pressure hose threads right in. The low pressure hose will need to be replaced and Georg provides that. I did this swap about 3 weeks ago and could not be happier. If you are still smogged you should trim the top mounting bolt or replace it with a plug. So you don't ruin the hose from the air pump.

A non-leaky PS pump that is easily sourced or repaired is worth any resale hit.

 

[NMfjCruiser]

As said if you get the right pump it threads in. I took the opportunity to fit new hoses when did it, I mean while your at it and all.
I think my Saginaw was for a mid 70s Volvo, that has the correct metric threads for the fitting.
Not home right now so can't tell you the exact model number.
In regards to resale you can just keep the Toyota pump as the modification is completely reversible but I guarantee it never be fit again. I'm all for keeping it Toyota but this is one of the rare cases where the mod is better than oem.

 

[opg4759a]

One thing a lot of people don't know is that most Saginaw pumps are the same just the case clocking is different or they have hydroboost but the vast majority are the same. The pressure control valve can be changed out to have the correct SAE or metric fitting for the input hose.

The part Georg recommends for the conversion is Autozone pump #7023 from Duralast and cap part # 82581 from Help products.

I ran into only one issue that the flow piston was missing from the pump I got from vatozone.

 

[Gretsch]

As long as you purchase the correct pump the Toyota high pressure hose threads right in. The low pressure hose will need to be replaced and Georg provides that. I did this swap about 3 weeks ago and could not be happier. If you are still smogged you should trim the top mounting bolt or replace it with a plug. So you don't ruin the hose from the air pump.

A non-leaky PS pump that is easily sourced or repaired is worth any resale hit.

So this truck is desmogged but the air pump is still in place, serving as a pulley. When you say trim the top mounting bolt, do you mean the mounting bolt for the air pump?

 

[opg4759a]

So this truck is desmogged but the air pump is still in place, serving as a pulley. When you say trim the top mounting bolt, do you mean the mounting bolt for the air pump?

On the Saginaw pump there are 2 studs on the case, they can either be removed and a plug put in or you can trim them down. The top one hits the hose coming off the air pump and could wear a hole into the hose that come up off the air pump to the air filter housing. If your desmogged then this isn't an issue for you.

 

[Gretsch]

On the Saginaw pump there are 2 studs on the case, they can either be removed and a plug put in or you can trim them down. The top one hits the hose coming off the air pump and could wear a hole into the hose that come up off the air pump to the air filter housing. If your desmogged then this isn't an issue for you.

Ok got it. Thanks. I am talking to George on the kit now. Will try and figure out which way to go here. Thanks for all the advice everyone. Big help.

 

[Gretsch]

OK so I think I have decided to for now just go ahead and see if I can get this going with a new Woodruff key. I think the pump is in good shape so going to try that. If after getting the pulley right the pump is still an issue, or the key does not work, I'll get a new pump. I talked to George about getting the Saginaw setup going. Seems like a solid mod so I'll have to consider that if it gets to that point. Last month was a beat down for us in terms of expenses so if I can get away with a $4 key for now it would sure help in that regard. I have some other issues on this cruiser that are more pressing that I may need to get some help with, which could cost some money.

Is there any trick to getting the pulley back on with the key? Does it need to be pressed on with a press or something or can I get it on with the new key and the bolt on the end of the shaft?

Anyway thanks for all the feedback. As always you guys and gals are a big help.

 

[CaptClose]

No press required. Just slide the pulley over the shaft and make sure the keyway is aligned... then hit it with an impact wrench. Not too tight though. I think it requires around 30 ft pounds or so of torque (if I recall). Easy peasy.

 

[Gretsch]

No press required. Just slide the pulley over the shaft and make sure the keyway is aligned... then hit it with an impact wrench. Not too tight though. I think it requires around 30 ft pounds or so of torque (if I recall). Easy peasy.

Great thanks.

 

[NMfjCruiser]

I'd consider JB weld or something to glue the woodruff in place.
Not normally needed but since yours is somewhat mangled and it fell out in the first place......that's what I'd try.

If that doesn't hold you could try a small tack weld on the pulley. I've seen it done.
It's not ideal but in the interest of making it work you have to think outside the box.

 

[Gretsch]

I'd consider JB weld or something to glue the woodruff in place.
Not normally needed but since yours is somewhat mangled and it fell out in the first place......that's what I'd try.

If that doesn't hold you could try a small tack weld on the pulley. I've seen it done.
It's not ideal but in the interest of making it work you have to think outside the box.

I am still a little confused how this key would have come out. Even with the shaft mangled a bit it still seems like any key would have a hard time 'falling out'. I am wondering if the PO just did not know any better, and while working on it, had the key fall out without noticing it, put it back together not realizing a part was missing, and tightened the bolt down calling it good. Or tried putting it back together correctly and realized the key would not fit properly to allow the pulley to go on the shaft with it in place and rolled without it. Surprisingly I had some level of power steering so the wobble of the pulley was catching the shaft enough to provide some level of pressure.

My guess is that when I go to fix this tonight, I'll find the key does not fit in the keyway properly to allow this to be fixed normally, and will be looking at a new pump anyhow, which is really the right play. Since I had to get a new key anyway even with a new pump, I thought I would try that first to see if the old pump was usable and if not would then source a new one knowing I already had the woodruff key for it. Whatever happens, I'll source a new pump down the road once I get some of these expenses behind me. Still not sure on Saginaw or not.

 

[Gretsch]

So my hunch was correct unfortunately. I went to try and get the pulley back on the shaft with the new Woodruff key, and the could not get it to fit on there. Kept pushing the key out of the way. I took a closer look at the pulley and noticed that the keyway in there is sort of twisted and off center. Causes the keyway to be narrower at one end that the other. The key does not properly fit into the keyway on the pulley on the narrow side. I am not sure if this supposed to be this way or not but the key itself is too wide to fit in this keyway on the pulley. I am mulling over if I should just get a new pulley or get a whole new pump/pulley setup.

Can anyone advise the best place to get the stocker pump and pulley?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I did explain how to attempt a fix on that sheared keyway.... Jim st saying it's worth a shot.
Ignore me. I see now you said the pulley slot is mangled. Yeah your up the creek unless you find another one in the classifieds.
Add a wanted post for a good used one. I got lucky and found one from a guy doing an engine swap.

 

[DFXR]

So my hunch was correct unfortunately. I went to try and get the pulley back on the shaft with the new Woodruff key, and the could not get it to fit on there. Kept pushing the key out of the way. I took a closer look at the pulley and noticed that the keyway in there is sort of twisted and off center. Causes the keyway to be narrower at one end that the other. The key does not properly fit into the keyway on the pulley on the narrow side. I am not sure if this supposed to be this way or not but the key itself is too wide to fit in this keyway on the pulley. I am mulling over if I should just get a new pulley or get a whole new pump/pulley setup.

Can anyone advise the best place to get the stocker pump and pulley?

I got one about 2 weeks ago from Camelback Toyota's parts website. $380 shipped for the new OEM pump, reservoir included. Use your old pulley. I don't know if camelback actually keeps them in their own warehouse, or has them shipped from the big one in LA, but I got it in a couple days.

part number for my 1985 FJ60 is 44320-60071 "Pump Assy L/Pulley". Same part for your '84.

I got a new hardline from Napa for about $25 - part number is 7-2142 "power steering hose - pressure" and it comes with the heat shield.

You could definitely go the Saginaw route via Georg for less money... people sound pretty stoked on it. But OEM has been good for me.

 

[Gretsch]

OK thanks for the heads up on the hose number from Napa. I was wondering on that. 30 year old hoses seem like a good replacement item when doing this. The high pressure hose is also pricey but the Napa one is reasonable.

The Saginaw idea is fine. After getting everything I would need (brackets, kit, etc.) the cost is close enough to OEM to just go ahead and dive in with OEM. I think I could save some $200 going Saginaw versus OEM, but my OEM has been good to 170,000, and is prolly still fine as a pump even now. I guess I get a little sentimental with this truck. Someone has taken very good care of it all these years so who am I to start now changing things with non-OEM parts. I will most likely never have to change this again, at least while I own it.

I have my parts list queued up on the Camelback site, so will most likely pull the trigger today.

So whats the trick to bleeding this system when replacing the pump? Do I need to drain the steering gear itself when doing this, or just replace the pump and hoses, fill with ATF, and keep working the steering back and forth until it runs smooth and the reservoir is full?

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. As usual, this forum has been a huge help.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Unhook and drain is enough. When refilling you'll need to jack up both front tires. Side to side like you said w/ a bottle dumped upside down (or some setup so it doesn't run dry). And have your return hose not hooked up in a bottle that won't melt.

 

[Gretsch]

Unhook and drain is enough. When refilling you'll need to jack up both front tires. Side to side like you said w/ a bottle dumped upside down (or some setup so it doesn't run dry). And have your return hose not hooked up in a bottle that won't melt.

OK got it. Great. Thanks for this.