FJ60 Power Steering Pulley Removal and PS Pump Install (1 Viewer)

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Gretsch

Gretsch

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Discovered I had lost power steering in the 84 60. Thought it was the pump but discovered after removing the belt that the pulley is free wheeling on the pump shaft. This presents an issue as I cannot figure out how to stop the pump shaft from spinning to loosen the bolt holding the pulley on. The typical tighten the belts to break the bolt free does not work here as the pulley is just spinning free on the pump shaft. There is a little hole in the end of the shaft, but it does not look like its threaded to allow me to put a bolt in the end of the shaft as a counter bolt to use to stop the shaft from spinning while I loosen the main shaft bolt. Sorry I don't have a proper FSM for this truck so any help would be appreciated.

And if the pulley is spinning free like this, could that mean the shaft on the pump is screwed up such that a new pulley won't get this fixed and a new pump is in order? The pulley does not even seem really attached to the shaft any longer. Spins free and wobbles everywhere. Should I just get a new pump and pulley and replace the pump since it has some 170,000 miles on it? $500 bucks from Toyota is not really too appealing at this point so if its just the pulley I would lean towards doing just that. The pump shaft itself seems solid in that it itself does not wobble at all. Just the pulley. Is the pump shaft grooved like an axle shaft or is the shaft smooth and the bolt on the end is what keeps the pulley from spinning free? Thanks in advance for the help. Definite noob here so all apologies there.
 
I seem to remember the pump shaft had a woodruff key.
Forget the $500 pump. If it comes to that get a Saginaw, under $50. Someone here sells a kit to make it bolt in or I made my own before the kit was available. It's one of the best mods I've made. The steering feel is much nicer. I have about 2500 miles including four wheeling on it now, no leaks from the box or anywhere. Highly recommended.
My Saginaw conversion
 
Last edited:
Woodruff key, 44311A below.

For getting the nut loose; I don't have any advise other than trying to clamp down on the pulley with a belt.

Get a copy of the FSM here. For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.


Vane Pump.jpg
 
Ok thanks. So I was able to get the pulley off luckily. I sprayed the end bolt with some liquid wrench, let it sit for a bit. Then I wedged a screwdriver behind the pulley pushing it up tight against the shaft and then broke the bolt loose. So pulley is off. I took a look at the shaft and the indentation where the woodruff key goes, seems to have been buggered up somehow. See pic below:

IMG_2542 (2).JPG


Not sure if this is usable or not. The key is nowhere to be found. Its not in the pulley or as you can see not on the shaft. Nothing fell out when taking the pulley off. The shaft just sort of looks like its 'cut' on the edge right where the key goes. Do you think this is what led to the key falling out somewhere? Should I be looking at a new pump here or just a new key, get the pulley back on properly, and move on? The pump is leaking a little but nothing too bad. Opinions are appreciated. Thanks.
 
Yep.. shaft has a key. For me, the easiest way to take the pulley off, is to remove the entire pump from the motor at the bracket. In other words, remove the pump and mounting bracket together. Once you've removed the pump, use an impact to remove the nut holding the pulley on.

By the way, if you search online, you can find a new OEM pump for around $350
 
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If the pump is original w/ 170k on it, the shaft is buggered and it's leaking a little, yeah replace it. If you shop around, you should be able to find new OEM for less than $400. Or go Saginaw.
 
If I remember right... I don't think the new pump came with a new key. You may have to source a new one. Can anyone confirm?
 
CaptClose said:
If I remember right... I don't think the new pump came with a new key. You may have to source a new one. Can anyone confirm?
Click to expand...

I think you're right. Regardless, the key is cheap, just get an extra one anyways.

The pump also doesn't come with a new pulley, so make sure yours is useable.

44311-60010 Pulley, Vane Pump
90280-05008 Key, Vane Pump Pulley
 
On second look they sell the reservoir separate so I prolly need both. Any seals needed to fit the reservoir on the pump?
 
Robert Franzke said:
Anyone have experience with this outfit:
Click to expand...

I've used them many times. The parts are legit, but don't expect any customer service. IIRC, the ONLY way to get a new reservoir is attached to a new pump.
 
OK thanks. Whats the deal on the parts? Original OEM NOS? Rebuilt? Not sure I understand how they can get New OEM parts for almost half the cost? Does Toyota really stand behind these parts?

Also, it seems that the only way to get this pump out of here is to remove the bracket where it bolts to the engine block as CaptClose indicates. Something about the pump to bracket mounting bolts being too long to clear the exhaust manifold if its in the truck. Sound right?
 
TPD is legit. All original new Toyota parts. Their discount off list price is similar to several other online Toyota parts dealers. No shenanigans going on.

Yes remove the whole bracket that holds the pump to get the pump off as @CaptClose so succinctly put it.
 
NMfjCruiser said:
Can't you use your reservoir? If not for some reason, I have a very nice reservoir (no cap) .
Yours for shipping if you need it.
Click to expand...

No I think I can use mine. I was just more curious if these typically came with the reservoir or if I needed to re-use/purchase one when buying the pump. I am not sure what sort of seals are needed to mate the reservoir to the pump if any. Anyone have an idea how the cup mates with the pump?
 
^^^^^

But if you ever do need to take the reservoir off, yes, there is a seal. 96711-19013 - Ring, O (For Vane Pump Oil Reservoir).
 
Shaft is buggered similar to how the crank shaft keyway can become. Obviously it came loose and got shear from the belt trying to spin as it was meant too. If you got a key you can use a special quickmetal paste, (I have a tube, and willing to send) to clamp it in. You can if you want then make a putty of JB weld and let it set up a few hours then add it to the gap to fill it. I can direct you in more detail if you want. Lmk.
I fixed my keyway that exact way as it was totally sheared at one time prior to me.
 
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