FJ60 power steering conversion (1 Viewer)

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Vulcan

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Jun 9, 2011
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Location
Evanston, IL
I am working on a rebuild and want to install power steering. I am trying to get the frame hot-dip galvanized and want to get any frame welding done first. Here's what I want/need and what I can/cannot do:

- Want to run eventually 35" A/T tires and for steering to be very very easy
- Want to use Toyota components where I can
- Can't fabricate or weld. Going to have to get someone else to do that
- Want to do any bracket or shock tower modifications before I get the frame hot dip galvanized

Does the FJ60 conversion make sense for what I want?

People that have the FJ60 gear box/saginaw pump setup: has it been smooth sailing or have there been any inherent problems?

The only kit I have seen is this one through Iron Pig, which is not cheap and appears to have increased in price about $500 or so in the last several years. Are there other FJ60 conversion options I should consider?

Alternatively, I have seen people suggest procuring the individual parts, and I'm wondering if others have done that successfully and how I could go about considering that? My friend works in parts at a Toyota dealership and I might be able to get the necessary reman. gear box and pitman arm and other Toyota parts at employee pricing. I don't know where/how to find stuff like the mounting bracket, hoses, new belt, or which pump I would need though.
 
Before you get knee deep in this, give Georg @orangefj45 or Mark @65swb45 a call. They have some of the parts you need, and expert opinions.
 
I just went through this on a friends rig.

What year is your 40?

I used a rebuilt box from West Texas Offroad.

Saginaw pump kit from Valley Hybrids

FJ40 Jim air pump idler pulley

Weld in TRE inserts from 4 plus with a 555 FJ60 TRE kit from Cruiser Outfitters

Steering Linkage parts from Summit Racing.

Rock auto has F250 shock towers for dirt cheap.

You can mock most everything up before you take it to your welder to have the frame boxed and sleeved for the steering box.

This isnt a tough upgrade, just time consuming and required alot of planning. I ended up reaming the steering arms for the 60 TREs.
 
There's going to be a difference in column choices depending on whether your rig is pre or post 9/72, bench or bucket seat.
 
Thanks @reddingcruiser that is helpful. I don't really know how to search for MUD vendors for particular products, so knowing who to talk with is a big help.

@Jdc1 I have a May 1972 land cruiser with front disc brake conversion. This is really helpful, I've only just started working on my cruiser in September and have it nearly down to frame/axles, so I haven't started buying parts yet and don't know the vendors. This gives me a nice starting point. I may PM you for more details as well.

@65swb45 thanks for the clarification, I have a May 1972 FJ40 with bench seat in the front
 
Thanks @reddingcruiser that is helpful. I don't really know how to search for MUD vendors for particular products, so knowing who to talk with is a big help.

@Jdc1 I have a May 1972 land cruiser with front disc brake conversion. This is really helpful, I've only just started working on my cruiser in September and have it nearly down to frame/axles, so I haven't started buying parts yet and don't know the vendors. This gives me a nice starting point. I may PM you for more details as well.

@65swb45 thanks for the clarification, I have a May 1972 FJ40 with bench seat in the front

Ask away.... The easiest way to deal with your steering column will be to cut it off in the engine conpartment and use a firewall anchor plate and a bearing between the inner shaft and outer column. Cruiser Outfitters or Georg can help with this. Mounting a power steering pump to the F will pose some challenges but problem solved if you are going to convert to a newer 2F that is tapped for a pump bracket.
 
I am working on a rebuild and want to install power steering. I am trying to get the frame hot-dip galvanized and want to get any frame welding done first. Here's what I want/need and what I can/cannot do:

- Want to run eventually 35" A/T tires and for steering to be very very easy
- Want to use Toyota components where I can
- Can't fabricate or weld. Going to have to get someone else to do that
- Want to do any bracket or shock tower modifications before I get the frame hot dip galvanized

Does the FJ60 conversion make sense for what I want?

People that have the FJ60 gear box/saginaw pump setup: has it been smooth sailing or have there been any inherent problems?

The only kit I have seen is this one through Iron Pig, which is not cheap and appears to have increased in price about $500 or so in the last several years. Are there other FJ60 conversion options I should consider?

Alternatively, I have seen people suggest procuring the individual parts, and I'm wondering if others have done that successfully and how I could go about considering that? My friend works in parts at a Toyota dealership and I might be able to get the necessary reman. gear box and pitman arm and other Toyota parts at employee pricing. I don't know where/how to find stuff like the mounting bracket, hoses, new belt, or which pump I would need though.
I am contacting George at Valley Hybrids tomorrow for a FJ60 conversion , I will be running 33's. If you want really easy steering with 35's
do a saginaw conversion.
 
I am contacting George at Valley Hybrids tomorrow for a FJ60 conversion , I will be running 33's. If you want really easy steering with 35's
do a saginaw conversion.

That's good to know. I think I'd rather have the Toyota gear box than the ability to run 35s+, so I might stick to FJ60 box and 33-35s knowing I may not be able to steer with a pinky with 35s.
 
Mounting a power steering pump to the F will pose some challenges but problem solved if you are going to convert to a newer 2F that is tapped for a pump bracket.
I don't need to smog my Land Cruisers so I ditched the smog pump on my '71 and '76 FJ40s which freed up a spot for mounting a PS pump. I don't run big tires so I went with Toyota mini-truck PS, using a mid-'80s 4WD Tercel PS pump mounted to the smog pump bracket and a mid-'80s Cressida adjusting bracket. Works great for me. The '76 did great on multiple high passes in the San Juan Mountains with this set-up (BFG LT235/75R15 ATs on FJ60 chrome wheels).

Here's my '76 heading up Black Bear Pass:
Black-Bear-6.jpg


And here's one of the tight switchbacks on the descent into Telluride, w/ @Mr Cimmaron's BJ40 and @The Machinist's FJ60 ahead of me:
Black-Bear-3.jpg
 
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Mounting a power steering pump to the F will pose some challenges but problem solved if you are going to convert to a newer 2F that is tapped for a pump bracket.

Would that be tapping a hole in the cylinder head to mount the pump? From reading the instructions to install the Iron Pig kit, it appears they include a bracket that mounts onto the front two head bolts. Not sure if that bracket exists elsewhere, but I imagine that is something I could have fabricated locally.

Otherwise, I am planning to have the engine dissembled, painted, and put back together. If necessary, is there enough material on the head to allow for the machine shop to drill/tap a hole?
 
I imagine I would still generally follow the Iron Pig instructions (http://ironpigoffroad.com/image/data/FJ40PowerSteeringKitInstallationInstructions.pdf). Which leads to another question - @Jdc1 if I use an F250 shock tower, would that allow me to mount the gear box plate a little closer to the shock tower (further from front bumer) and avoid having to modify the radiator housing? And could my welder still use that template for the mounting plate or would that mess up the angle of the steering column? Wondering how you dealt with this on your buddy's 40...
 
I imagine I would still generally follow the Iron Pig instructions (http://ironpigoffroad.com/image/data/FJ40PowerSteeringKitInstallationInstructions.pdf). Which leads to another question - @Jdc1 if I use an F250 shock tower, would that allow me to mount the gear box plate a little closer to the shock tower (further from front bumer) and avoid having to modify the radiator housing? And could my welder still use that template for the mounting plate or would that mess up the angle of the steering column? Wondering how you dealt with this on your buddy's 40...

My advice would be to get everything mocked up before you finalize anything.

The mod to the radiator support is pretty straightforward, I mounted the steering box where a 250 tower wouldnt work and still had to cut the rad support. On his 68 the box would hit the bib marker light if it went any farther forward.
 
7431D591-81EC-44F2-8653-A5DD7EC26DA7.jpeg

I have this mount for sale, it is the bolt to head mount for the PS pump. I hadn’t posted it yet on the classifieds. Just seeing if I could help. $75 plus shipping. I’ll throw in the power steering pump for an extra $20. The pump has a small dent and was working when removed.
 

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