FJ60 p/s pump replacement- 5 hrs of hell... but worth it!

[gnx7]

I'm writing this thread to simply thank the stars for aligning and me not losing my sanity while changing out the p/s pump yesterday.

Life of a truck near the beach.....
My 2F has always been a squeaky machine and I felt the alternator and p/s pump were getting affected by the salt air. The bearings were making some joyous squeals... or at least I noticed them.

Well about 100 miles ago somehow my old p/s pump had the pulley come loose and was seriously wobbling on the shaft. I felt that either it was going to seize... or completely wobble off. Luckily I found a local FJ60 being parted and scored its p/s pump and alternator and other misc. bits for $100.

So starting at 2pm on Sunday after finally motivating to get going I removed the alternator which was a piece of cake and then moved on to the p/s pump. Holy schmoly is it a PITA to get at all the bolts holding on the p/s bracket to the block with all the smog stuff in the way and other junk. After manipulating my hands/arms thru the labyrinth of accessories and lots of cursing, a few lagers, some grease, scrapes, dropped tools, draining fluid etc... I finally got the pump off. This was supposed to be the easy part..... yeah right!

A short trip to Kragen for brake cleaner, p/s fluid, and beef jerkey and back to the contortionism.

So I finally grab the replacement p/s pump and get to gettin'. Man is it a PITA to get these bolts to thread in place. So out comes the 500W halogen on the stand as it is gettin dark... another hour of cursing, using the prybar, and I button it all back together. Check for belt alignment/tension and fill up the reservoir with fresh p/s fluid. Start it up and it simply purrs..... No squeaking and actually is as quiet as it has ever been.

I'm happy it works again and it wasn't too bad once completed. I only spent 30 mins in the shower shrubbing my arms/hands/nails "clean(er)." It looks like a cat attacked my forearm with all the scratches.

Hopefully it runs for a long time to come now without any problems. Only 135K on the clock.

Just wanted to share my frustration and then happiness

 

[hammer1]

I learned the hard way, just like you, but you didnt have to remove the bracket. loosen the alternator, and remove the three bolts holding the p/s pump, pull it out, remove the pully, and replace.
first time, to me 5 hours too, and that was the FIRST OF THREE BAD REBUILDS. at the end, an oem rebuilt was swapped in in about a half hour.
now, bleeding the pump, thats a PITA
hammer

 

[BigGun J]

I am a ROOKIE and reading and learning. I hope your P/S fluid is ATF? I have a 85 and it takes ATF not power steering fluid. That was a lot of labor to foul you work with the wrong fluid.

Jim

 

[smcruisin]

I hope you ment, "Filled with ATF" , not p/s fluid.....



https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=37047
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=70039 ...starting @ post #4

and how to fix the problem:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78646&highlight=fluid+atf


time to get dirty again???

 

[gnx7]

SSHhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeit! I guess there is a reason why I have a repair manual on the shelf. Next time I'll use the damn thing to read about what fluid it calls for.

Time to get dirty again... or just wait as it leaks from the p/s box anyway and over time it will change itself.

I tried to loosen those 3 bolts off to remove only the pump.... but 2 were already rounded off and they weren't moving. Previous owner must've attempted it.

 

[smcruisin]

Oh well, don't feel bad, you wouldn't be the first person to do it (myself included). I almost feel dumber for giving away a 4L jug of ATF because I didn't own a vehicle with an auto any more (and I got rid of my Stratos mountain bike forks that ran on ATF also).

That should teach me that it pays to be a pack-rat!!! I should store & keep every little nic-nack and gizmo (working or not) I come across......

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Zack1978]

I learned the hard way, just like you, but you didnt have to remove the bracket. loosen the alternator, and remove the three bolts holding the p/s pump, pull it out, remove the pully, and replace.
first time, to me 5 hours too, and that was the FIRST OF THREE BAD REBUILDS. at the end, an oem rebuilt was swapped in in about a half hour.
now, bleeding the pump, thats a PITA
hammer

Hammer ,
Want to come up to West Milford and help me swap my PS pump when I get the new one from Toyota?


Zack

 

[nuclearlemon]

how the he^% has everyone gotten the back bolt off the power steering pump! cant get a box end or flare wrench on it because the manifold is too close. open end just strips it! can't get vice grips in with all the emissions bull$#%^ in the way....guess it's time to start "kick a japanese engineer day".

 

[crawlin60]

Ige, the ticket is to get a cheap box end wrench size 14 to the bench, grind it to 1/4 in. thick and go to town. With that tool made, the back bolt is a piece o cake.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Ige, the ticket is to get a cheap box end wrench size 14 to the bench, grind it to 1/4 in. thick and go to town. With that tool made, the back bolt is a piece o cake.

btdt, and got the bolt loose finally, but it's backed all the way against the manifold and it's still too long to get hte power steering pump past it.

 

[nuclearlemon]

here's the bolt that has me soooo pissed

 

[rick_d]

I gave up on the removal of back bolt idea 8 years ago.

remove the whole bracket. when clean, you can the entire assembly back in 30 minutes or less including the smog pump adjustment. locating the three 14mm is the biggest pain but it can be done.

 

[60wag]

On my first pump replacement, I tried to remove the rear bolt only to have it back out into the manifold. Since then, I remove the mounting bracket from the block, after having removed the air injection pump. I think its the easiest way to do it. I can swap a pump in less than an hour.

As far as the ATF /PS fluid thing goes....
Yea, the book calls out ATF and yea, I've got ATF in mine but does it really matter? Has anyone actually looked into the real difference between the two? I think the ATF is basically the same with some detergents and red color added.

 

[nuclearlemon]

how the he^% do you ge tthe bracket off? it took two extensions and two ujoints just to get to the front bolt which is the easiest. i tried the bolt on the bottom of the smog pump and it feels like there's a nut on it. can't see through all the s&^% to tell.

anyone considering doing a ps pump on an 83...sell it !!! this is the most f'd up motor for emissions.

i will try one more time to get the bracket off...then the old pump goes back on and it will either get sold or sit until next november when i can get collector plates and get rid of the emissions b.s. after the way my cruisers have been this year, i'm just too frustrated to deal with them anymore. i don't have time for this sh^%

 

[nuclearlemon]

i've determined that pulling the smog pump is no go. there is a nut. i can almost get my fingers to it, but how will i get it back on, also, the clamps for the hoses are in the wrong position and i wouldn't be able to get them off which they would need to be off since the pump would have to come out forward (may not be possible with the radiator there, but i don't think it has to go that far forward), so tomorrow morning after i attempt to fix my kitchen sink which isn't draining, i will put the old pump back on, brake clean all the crap off the smog pump, pull it out of the garage and shove it next to the garage until it either sells or is eligible for collector plates and i can cut all the emissions hoses out of my way.

 

[rick_d]

ige-

5" or so channel locks help get the clamps off the air injection hoses.

two 12mm bolts hold the smog adjusting bracket

two 12mm hold the manifold deflector/hot air heater on

one 14mm nut up front for bracket and three 14mm bolts under the pump.

if you pull the smog pump remember the bushing on the rear of the smog bracket tends to fall out, keep it together with pivot bolt as they are hard to come by.

clean everything before reassembly and make sure the 14mm threads in block are lightly oiled.

it's a pain, but not as bad as some things (like the 14mm rear manifold bolt or the 13mm-diameter 3sp bellhousing bolts etc etc, and certainly easier than a one side of the knuckle.

if you think thats bad, try a 3B/13BT starter in a 70 series especially with PTO. 2.5 hours and every cuss word I learned from age 3 up to get the starter out!

 

[Driving_to_TDF]

there _is_ an easy way

I too suffered hell on P/S removal and am duty bound to describe what ended up working best:

I originally contacted a local FJ60 expert who suggested I loosen the 14mm and 17mm bolts on the exhaust headers to free up an extra bit (1/8") of space behind the rear P/S mounting bolt. This involved temporarily removing some of the hot air induction system but that was worth it because it eliminated a lot of sharp edges in the area.

Take the time to siphon out the fluid from the reservoir and remove it before working on removing the PS pump or other parts of the system as it will free up lots of working space for wrenching. Or, like me, don't take the time and just pull it and drain the fluid all over the smog pump.

Next, that bolt is _still_ too long to back it out of the bracket! So, I backed it out as much as possible and then took a hacksaw and cut the head off which allowed me to back it the rest of the way out and thus remove the P/S pump. Just grind 1/8" or so from a new replacement bolt. For the least amount of distress, grind some from the head and some from the threads. Preset the bolt with the PS pump removed and then install the PS pump.

Really, removing the back bolt by cutting it out is the smartest way to go. Had I known this from the beginning I could have saved tons of knuckle flesh. Screwing with the smog pump/brackets etc looked like such a PITA that it inspired the epiphany described.

-brian

 

[Elbert]

anyone know if it matters if you dextron III in for the power sterring fluid. The owners manual says I or II...but all I have at the house is III. Not sure if it matters, buy anyone know?

 

[Elbert]

meant to say " does it matter if you use dextron III in place of II" for the p/s fluid?

 

[2mbb]

meant to say " does it matter if you use dextron III in place of II" for the p/s fluid?

Dexron III is OK. I think I and II were replaced with III, or something like that...or maybe it's more correct to say that Dexron III meets or exceeds Dexron II specifications.