FJ60 only runs at full choke.

Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Niceville Florida
Update:
Well I found the bulk of my problem. I tore it all down and replaced the FelPro with a RemFlex. Didn’t use any sealant because it says not too right on the package. I gave it a few extra foot lbs of torque too. Reassembled everything and fires it up. Started right up, RPMs were higher, smoother, and no more ticking, exhaust leak either. Ran good with the choke all the way in.

My RPMs were reading about 1100 on the tach. I tried to adjust the carb to drop them down but couldn’t ever bring them down below 1000. The dash tach is 35 years old so who knows if it’s even accurate. It does seem like it’s idling a tad high though. I tried to follow the Lean Adjustment instructions but they were kind of confusing. I adjusted the “mix” screw up until the rpms wouldn’t go any higher. I then adjusted the Idle “speed” screw to try to bring them down but they only dropped 100 RPM or so. Didn’t really seem to do much. Is this the right process? “Mix” up, then “speed” down. Keep doing this until the “mix” screw doesn’t increase RPMs anymore. Then “mix” down to achieve desired RPMs. Am I understanding the process right?

My “AC speed” is also all out of wack. When I turn the AC on the RPMs skyrocket. It’s so fast that I have to flip it off immediately. I’m not sure which way to turn the screw to get it lower but it’s obviously way off. Anyone know which way to turn it to slow it down?
 
Last edited:

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
 
 
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
10,544
Location
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
The AC idle up speed adjustment screw is located on the front of the carb. It is currently way too tight, preventing the base idle speed from being set correctly. Back out the AC screw almost all the way, then start engine and adjust base idle speed (screw buried in back of carb). Tturn on AC and adjust AC speed screw to desitred setting.

Curious, what was the root cause problem before that R&R of manifolds seems to have fixed?
 
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Niceville Florida
The AC idle up speed adjustment screw is located on the front of the carb. It is currently way too tight, preventing the base idle speed from being set correctly. Back out the AC screw almost all the way, then start engine and adjust base idle speed (screw buried in back of carb). Tturn on AC and adjust AC speed screw to desitred setting.

Curious, what was the root cause problem before that R&R of manifolds seems to have fixed?
Started by replacing my manifold gasket due to a pretty big exhaust leak. Reassembled and had an exhaust and intake leak, go figure. I’ve heard a lot of people on the forums saying the only way they could get a good seal was with a RemFlex gasket and that’s what seemed to do the trick for me.
 

dannyvp

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
188
Location
Hernando, MS
This might be a time when a Remflex is warranted. RemFlex recommends no sealant. Follow remflex's torque recommendations carefully.

If you do use a sealant, DO NOT USE the high-temp stuff in a tube. It won't work for this.

Use the shellac-based stuff in a can that is brush on. None of the spray stuff will work. This stuff bakes hard as Nancy Pelosi's face.

Apply to ALL sides - Cylinder head, gasket, manifolds.

View attachment 1900241
The high temp stuff in the tube will not work with the Rem Flex or the manifold?
 
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Niceville Florida
The high temp stuff in the tube will not work with the Rem Flex or the manifold?
The high temp in the tube is only rated up to 700 degrees and the manifold, engine and gasket can handle much more than that so it makes a point of weakness. The RemFlex gasket is designed to crush to fill the voids and take care of any leaks (without the use of sealant). It worked perfectly for me. Wish I’d used it the first time. The brush on Shellac sealant is rated at a much higher temp. I may have used that product if I had decided to with the FelPro.
 
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