FJ60 Holley Sniper Conversion (3 Viewers)

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Joined
May 25, 2020
Threads
8
Messages
41
Location
Houston, TX
Took the old Weber off this weekend and got the Sniper EFI on and it pretty unbelievable the difference it makes. Outside of an engine rebuild I don't know what else could make that big of a difference.

Here are some of the pics.

Fuel system schematic

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Stock fuel lines on FJ60 are set up with return line on top and feed line on bottom. Looking down the fuel line from the engine to the fuel tank the return line is on the right side of the line coming out of the tank.
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I mounted the fuel pump using one the stock fuel line screw holes below the passenger side rear of the seat. Bottom fuel line in the picture is the return line to the fuel filter/regulator.
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Fuel filter/regulator set up. Top/outside fuel line is the feed. Center fuel line is the return.
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More to come!
 
This FJ didnt come with the stock heat shield and spacer so I modified the adapter so that it can fit on top of the ManAFre spacer.
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Finished product. The bolts have to sit flush to the adapter as the Sniper throttle body goes on top of the adapter.
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Mounted.
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Once the Sniper is mounted I ran the fuel hard lines. The key here is knowing the hard lines go behind the alternator bracket. To do so I move the alternator and pulled the bracket back from the block.

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Hard line just to the right of the alternator bracket.
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Not much to say about the O2 sensor. I probably mounted it a little farther back than the manual says to but I want to make sure it was mounted in a flat part of the exhaust so that the bracket didn't leak.

To the point, its probably worth mentioning that any leak from the O2 sensor to the engine will make the system not run properly and you wont realize the full benefit of running the sniper. For that I planed all flat parts on my intake, installed new exhaust/intake gasket, and made sure I didn't have an exhaust leak.

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Pedal modification took a little creativity to figure out. In short, I bent the top of the petal assembly. It was originally connected to the throttle linkage through the fire wall and the final product has the throttle cable linkage inside the cab.

OEM petal assembly
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Modified petal mounted. Notice the top of the petal assembly no longer goes through the fire wall hole as original. The top of the petal goes up. The amount you bend it changes your throttle throw and resting position so be prepared to mount and test a couple times to get >85% throttle fully depressed while the pedal isnt too high or low when at rest/idle.
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There is a really convenient hole in the fire wall that end up aligning to the top of the petal assembly after its bent. This hole is originally used to hold a screw for some heat shielding on the fire wall. Remove that screw. This is what one end of the throttle cable will screw in too and your throttle cable will go through to connect to the petal assembly.
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Drill out original petal assembly linkage that the throttle cable attaches too.
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Inside the engine bay showing the bolt hole that the throttle cable screws in to. Side note: I used the hole that was used for the OEM throttle linkage to run the Sniper touch screen cable through the fire wall.



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The throttle cable loops around and mounts to the bracket on the sniper. Only have to cut the cable to length ensuring the throttle linkage on the sniper doesn't hit the bracket. In short, you want to make sure it has full range of motion.
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This also might be a good time to check the IAC screw. I received mine full screwed which gave me a super high idle (2000 rpm) that took me a second to figure out. The will need to be adjusted once running but the IAC should be present at 1-1.5 turns past touching the linkage.
 
Wiring comes next. Its super easy to get installed with a HEI style distributor but needs a little of clean/modification to get it to look cleaner. In my experience the tach wire (yellow -) is really short to give you enough length to get the cable away from the head cover.

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Not much to do with these fuse/relay boxes. Essentially just find a good spot to mount them to the firewall. Thats it.
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Other items that are wired are the blue line to the positive terminal on the fuel pump. Black wire to negative on battery. Red Wire goes to positive terminal on battery.

The last one that needs to be ran is probably the trickiest. The pink wire (ignition) needs to be wired in to a clean 12V connection that its not on when the car is in the off position. I have mine mounted to the back of the fuse box but this is temporary as i find a cleaner and better spot.

Any suggests are certainly welcome.
 
My only suggestions are to change the wiring for the fuel pump, because I can promise you that it will let you down with how you have it now. Especially the ground wire.

I would run a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the fuel pump, and then get the marine-grade heat-shrink ring terminals for the pump. Something like this: Amazon product ASIN B013121P52
Then make sure you shrink them with some heat, and cover the pump terminals with dielectric grease. Rain and mud will get into the connections you have now and cause corrosion.
 
Id ask ya hows it running in the Cold...but see youre from Houston lololol so, scratch that!!! By far the best mod ive had done AINEC!!! Love Hollllley Sniper!
 
Id ask ya hows it running in the Cold...but see youre from Houston lololol so, scratch that!!! By far the best mod ive had done AINEC!!! Love Hollllley Sniper!
Ha not much cold to speak of down here really. I did drive it a few morning when it got down below 40 and didn’t have any trouble with starting or idling. The gear box doesn’t like the cold however.

As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is the bolts backing out of the adapter from the intake to the sniper. This was quick fix with some loctite and it’s good to go.

As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is the bolts backing out of the adapter from the intake to the sniper. This was quick fix with some loctite and it’s good to go.

All things considered this was a great upgrade for reliability. However, I’m certainly not winning any awards on the economy side. I’m averaging at best 10mpg. I have read many folks have seen this in a number of different engines. Next thing to do is get it to a tuner to see if Fuel map can be optimized for efficiency.
 
Ha not much cold to speak of down here really. I did drive it a few morning when it got down below 40 and didn’t have any trouble with starting or idling. The gear box doesn’t like the cold however.

As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is the bolts backing out of the adapter from the intake to the sniper. This was quick fix with some loctite and it’s good to go.

As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is the bolts backing out of the adapter from the intake to the sniper. This was quick fix with some loctite and it’s good to go.

All things considered this was a great upgrade for reliability. However, I’m certainly not winning any awards on the economy side. I’m averaging at best 10mpg. I have read many folks have seen this in a number of different engines. Next thing to do is get it to a tuner to see if Fuel map can be optimized for efficiency.
I dnt remember my exact mileage, but i believe its better than 10mpg. Id love updates when you xero in on it...
 
Ha not much cold to speak of down here really. I did drive it a few morning when it got down below 40 and didn’t have any trouble with starting or idling. The gear box doesn’t like the cold however.

As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is the bolts backing out of the adapter from the intake to the sniper. This was quick fix with some loctite and it’s good to go.

As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is the bolts backing out of the adapter from the intake to the sniper. This was quick fix with some loctite and it’s good to go.

All things considered this was a great upgrade for reliability. However, I’m certainly not winning any awards on the economy side. I’m averaging at best 10mpg. I have read many folks have seen this in a number of different engines. Next thing to do is get it to a tuner to see if Fuel map can be optimized for efficiency.
I am also at about 10 mpg.. runs pretty well after it's warmed up, but a little rich. Let us know what your tuner does please.
 
HELP!!. I have installed the Sniper on my '86 FJ60. I have also desmogged. Running a stock dizzy. Went with the "in-tank" fuel pump from Moseley.....Getting plenty of fuel but it wont fire. Keeps getting flooded. Im a backyard mechanic so i'm stumped. One question I have is where to hook the two small vacuum advance lines (guessing that's what they are) that come off the side of the dizzy (the rusty diaphragm looking thing). I wish someone had some pics of where the remaining vacuum lines go.... Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Here’s the diagram that shows where the vacuum advance lines hook up to on the sniper.

That being said, I wouldn't expect this would keep it from firing. Mine runs fine without hooking up the vacuum advances line.

If you are getting fuel next check if you are still getting spark. My thought is even if it’s running super rich it’s likely to atleast turnover a couple times.

If it does turnover and runs rough I would set up the sniper again to make sure you have all the setting correct.

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Have you
HELP!!. I have installed the Sniper on my '86 FJ60. I have also desmogged. Running a stock dizzy. Went with the "in-tank" fuel pump from Moseley.....Getting plenty of fuel but it wont fire. Keeps getting flooded. Im a backyard mechanic so i'm stumped. One question I have is where to hook the two small vacuum advance lines (guessing that's what they are) that come off the side of the dizzy (the rusty diaphragm looking thing). I wish someone had some pics of where the remaining vacuum lines go.... Any help is greatly appreciated.
verified you have spark?
 
Here’s the diagram that shows where the vacuum advance lines hook up to on the sniper.

That being said, I wouldn't expect this would keep it from firing. Mine runs fine without hooking up the vacuum advances line.

If you are getting fuel next check if you are still getting spark. My thought is even if it’s running super rich it’s likely to atleast turnover a couple times.

If it does turnover and runs rough I would set up the sniper again to make sure you have all the setting correct.

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Thank you. I have the fax line ran from the top of the dizzy to the vac advance port. I will check for spark when I get home tonight and go back thru the set up to make sure my settings are correct. Thank you
 

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