Fj60 Distrib...side cover and ignitor setup. Where can I get these ? (1 Viewer)

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Ok. I’m sick of problems with pertronix and no working voltmeter and 78 stock dizzy....Anyone know where I can get a complete set up to replace all this and go to a fj60 setup?

Ideas and sources are helpful
 

Jdc1

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Ok. I’m sick of problems with pertronix and no working voltmeter and 78 stock dizzy....Anyone know where I can get a complete set up to replace all this and go to a fj60 setup?

Ideas and sources are helpful
Put a wanted post in the classifieds.
 

4Cruisers

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I'm refurbishing FJ60 distributors, including new NipponDenso advancers. I adjust the advancers to match the advance curves of specific F and 2F engines, and have done quite a few for '77 through '80 2Fs. I think @ToyotaMatt has a coil/igniter. I use OEM parts in my refurbishments (cap, rotor, O-rings, etc.).

PM me if interested.
 
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Another option would be, @4Cruisers refurbish your stock 78 distributor back to like-new and keep your original side cover, coil, and ignitor. It’s what I did and results are fantastic.
 

4Cruisers

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Another option would be, @4Cruisers refurbish your stock 78 distributor back to like-new and keep your original side cover, coil, and ignitor. It’s what I did and results are fantastic.
I can do that, too. No problems with the '78 distributors when properly refurbished. I have all the parts needed for the refurbishment, except I only have single diaphragm advancers without the High Altitude Compensation. OK if yours works, but given your location HAC's probably not needed anyway.
 
Joined
May 11, 2002
Messages
730
Location
twin cities
I'm refurbishing FJ60 distributors, including new NipponDenso advancers. I adjust the advancers to match the advance curves of specific F and 2F engines, and have done quite a few for '77 through '80 2Fs. I think @ToyotaMatt has a coil/igniter. I use OEM parts in my refurbishments (cap, rotor, O-rings, etc.).

PM me if interested.
PM Sent
 
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twin cities
Here are some pics of what dissy I have

B13C7006-AE21-4E77-8441-C5BF6C6140AD.jpeg


E884D409-2B30-4CB6-AC2F-AD4D2EC51B20.jpeg


916D55A1-93DF-4A18-A2E1-32258CC7B797.jpeg


8C1D3C84-F96B-4555-8AE0-AB8143EBA2C1.jpeg


87BD0871-2266-47DA-82B0-24233521C1D5.jpeg
 

4Cruisers

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Thanks for posting the photos, it really helps. The second and third photos are the stock '78 advance and retard electronic distributor. The breaker plate on that one looks like it may not be functional. The first and last photos are a non-US points distributor, which has been converted to Pertronix. Both are inherently good distributors. A couple of options to maintain fully electronic ignition using your current distributors:

- The '78 can be refurbished, using a new single diaphragm advancer adjusted to match the advance curve of the '77 through '78 2F advancers.

- The non-US distributor can be converted to Toyota electronic ignition using a later 2F cam and breaker plate, paired with a Celica signal generator.

Both are pretty straightforward, and either option could use your '78 igniter.
 

4Cruisers

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Your non-US distributor appears to be pretty new, and the advancer probably works. It's pretty easy to swap out the cam and breaker plate and install a Celica signal generator. The cam in your '78 distributor can be cleaned up and swapped over and there's a good chance your breaker plate can be cleaned up and swapped over. I have a good supply of new ball bearings that I use for refurbishing breaker plates - that and a good cleaning/re-greasing usually helps to get them operating smoothly. Basically combine two distributors into one very good one.
 

4Cruisers

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If I wanted to clean up and run the 1978 can you sell me the parts?

Are those the same as a celiac?
I'll look at my remaining parts and see if I can put a package together for you. I know I have an advancer, cap, dust proof packing (for the cap), rotor, O-ring, mechanical advance weights (with sleeves), stop pin bushing, and ball bearings for the breaker plate. I'll have to see if I have an extra set of races for the breaker plate in case yours are pitted by the ball bearings, which is pretty common. Pitting causes the breaker plate to hang up as the advancer tries to rotate it. I've been able to sand the pitted areas of a marginal race, but not if the pitting's really bad.

Check the resistance of your signal generator with a multimeter, it should be between 100 and 200 ohms. The ones I've been testing have been in the 160 to 170 ohm range. They rarely go bad, but it does happen. The Celica signal generator is basically the same as the 2F, but you have to trim some of the material off the rubber grommet at the distributor body feed-through - the Celica grommet is shaped to fit the U-shaped opening that's on your non-US distributor.
 

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