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fj60 axles on the fj45lv wagon

Discussion in 'FJ45 Owners Club' started by Mikesta, Jul 30, 2005.

  1. Mikesta

    Mikesta Never decruiserfied SILVER Star

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    The wagon still doesnt know what its getting because its owner is a rookie newb. Im looking for examples of the lv wagon getting donor 60 axles under it.

    I have read many posts through searches, and believe I could run 33" tires under it with a spring over... withougt cutting into the rear wheel wells, but I dont think I want to do a spring over... so my 60 axles are now too wide to use.

    Can anyone help me with suggestions or examples of this being done on a LV?

    I know I can shorten the axles = lot a work
    I know I can do a spring over = lot a work
    I know I can just use the original axles... but with the claw dont want to.

    thanks in advance.


    Mike
     
  2. 1FE pig

    1FE pig

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    Late 1975 and up disks from a -fj40- or -fj55- is a bolt in.
    Drive line bolt patern is the only difference to change. If the gears are the same it's a 1 banana swap.So next you gota have a disk master.That jelly jar on the firewall just won't do.''Now my hotrodding opinion''3 out of 4 time when i build my rigs i started with crap,and and they need a ton of work,not something that is stock and cherry so the list go's.#1 brakes-it needs to stop,no pumping or praying.Cruiser disk front work great.On the back i like the modified chev 1/2ton rotor-monty caliper disk setup.A 90's and up 4runner master cyl works flawless.It a single cap and fits most all toyota power brake bosters.I did use a late 80's mini truck on my pig because it fit like it was stock,and i had it lying around.I have a chunk of a 40 firewall for the booster for the LV.The axel's under a cruiser will handle 300+ horse,But the drum brakes won't.#2-steering-Stock steering handles like a school bus and has more ty rods than it needs.So keep it,or change to power.A 60 box or sagnaw power steering box work well,if you want power steering.There are posts on ''road feel''of a sagnaw box if you consider this.On a wagon it's not that bad.But a 40 with a 454 ,92" swaps ends very fast.I know you just asked about axel's,but axel's are just a small part on plan.So if you want bolt in, a later FJ 40 parts rig will help alot.I did spend the first winter on my fj55 with 3.70 in the front ,and had to wait for the snow to melt to pull the rear diff gears from parts truck.So don't fall for that, it pulls to the ditch hard on dry roads. :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2005
  3. Chef

    Chef

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    I believe Luke at 4x4 Labs (http://www.4x4labs.com/) used to have some pics of having done this. He outboarded the springs. It is possible to mount the 60 front without outboarding the springs, but the diff presents a problem in iether spring over or under config.
    The easiest solution seems to be to cut the axle side of the spring perrch nearest the diff down to "next to nothing," , and weld plate with captured bolts to it. This eleiminates the u-bolt dillema on the diff side of the perch. There are several here and on priate that have taken this approach, FJ40Tom at pirate being one I remember. Tom Pennington with Lone Star Land Crusiers. You can replace the big bronze bush in your early housing with a seal, and move "knuckles out" to your axle housing, or use any later model drum brake housing. Thjis will let you use birfs, knukles, disc brakes, etc from your 60, though will will need one 40 series inner axle for the long side.