FJ60 AC what is next? (1 Viewer)

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r134a is often used. There are alternatives.
here is some info Duracool-12A (TM), Envirosafe (TM), RedTek (TM), FrostyCool (TM) AKA Hydrocarbon AC Refrigerants

As for recharging procedure.
There's a couple a ways to go about the recharge.
You can go nuts, and flush the entire system clean. Replace the expansion valve to suit the new gas. Add the correct oil that's compatible with the new gas,replace the receiver drier, them vacuum and recharge.

Or you can do what I did, and replace the drier only, vacuum and recharge leaving the existing oil in.[I used a hydrocarbon gas blend]
Mine still works fine after 3 years.
I think you can hire a vac pump. I used an old fridge compressor. Doesn't pull as much vacuum as the proper units but better than nothing.
Don't forget to add the correct amount of oil for your new compressor and rec/drier on top of whats left in the system.
 
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I would change over to R134a. It is cheap and easy to find. You can "rent" the tools for free from places like AutoZone. You can get both a vacuum pump and manifold. I've done the conversion to R134a on my FZJ80. I assume it should be similar on the 60. Parts are cheap and it is straight forward.

Many compressors come pre-filled with oil. If that is the case with yours, you need to check what kind it is. R12 and R134a use different oils that are not compatible with each other. You may have to clean out the oil if it is the wrong type.
 
I would change over to R134a. It is cheap and easy to find. You can "rent" the tools for free from places like AutoZone. You can get both a vacuum pump and manifold. I've done the conversion to R134a on my FZJ80. I assume it should be similar on the 60. Parts are cheap and it is straight forward.

Many compressors come pre-filled with oil. If that is the case with yours, you need to check what kind it is. R12 and R134a use different oils that are not compatible with each other. You may have to clean out the oil if it is the wrong type.
what takes to convert, just the fittings?
 
Not just the fitting but there are O-rings that need to be changed over. Two of these O-rings are at the evaporator which is in the cab. The evaporator can be taken out for access to the o-rings. Also your receiver/dryer should be changed out also.

R-134 O-rings are green in color.
 
If you bought a Denso brand compressor, it comes with oil for R12. If you want to convert to R134a, you'll need to drain the oil and replace it with PAG46 oil. Be sure to change the receiver/drier as well. Typically you will only use 75-80% as much R134a as R12. Use the good steel adapter fitting like 4Seasons 59976 (low side) and either 59977 (1/4") or 59978 (3/16) on the high side. Since they come with Schrader valves, be sure to remove the valve core from the original fitting on the compressor. If you want to keep it R12, check your local craigslist.
 
Again, I did my FZJ80, but I think this would apply to a 60 series as well. I think I did a pretty complete in my changeover. Even still, it was a cheap and straight forward job.

I cleaned out all the lines, condensor, evaporator, and compressor with a can A/C flush. I changed out all the O-rings. Very cheap. I also put Nylog blue on them as suggested by a HVAC person. Don't know if this helps or not, but other's chimed in that it is good stuff. I changed out the dryer. I also changed out the expansion valve, which gave me a chance to clean the evap unit, which is always clogged up with all kinds of great things. I then put the adapters on to convert the high and low side to R134a type connectors. Somewhere in this, I added the new PAG oil (I used the type with dye in it for leak detection if necessary). I drew a vacuum and made sure it held it for about 30 minutes before charging it with r134a. That was back in 2015 and it still works. HTH.
 
Here you go:

 
If you change to R134 then you need a new dryer designed for R134. I do not remember the part number but it is different than the R12 version. I do not believe it has the site glass.
Also you should flush the system properly and will need to vacuum test it anyways as you changed the compressor and to get any air out of the lines.
 
If you change to R134 then you need a new dryer designed for R134. I do not remember the part number but it is different than the R12 version. I do not believe it has the site glass.
Also you should flush the system properly and will need to vacuum test it anyways as you changed the compressor and to get any air out of the lines.
The receiver/dryer part number is in the table on Page 2 of my link to the Toyota TSB, immediately above your post.
 
The receiver/dryer part number is in the table on Page 2 of my link to the Toyota TSB, immediately above your post.

I don't know if it's still the case, but the Toyota brand retro-fit drier used to cost about a hundred bucks. You can use 4Seasons # 33403 which is around $20.
 
Replacing all the major components now. Denso compressor is pre-oiled, I plan on staying with R12. Will I need to add oil to anything? Old compressor had all the oil leak out prior to my ownership. I also bought the green o-ring kit, will it work with R12? Thanks
 
What oil is in your Denso compressor? It needs to be R12 compatible. I would have to think that any green o-rings would be R12 compatible.
 
@SteveH Great question....it came with oil in it supposedly ND-OIL 6 (marked). Denso factory new rebuilt compressor 471-0204. I am thinking I should still empty the oil to measure it per directions, however the comparison part of the instruction is not possible as my old compressor was empty!
I think I will figure amounts and add per FSM the mineral oil to the evaporator and condenser, then whatever is needed in back into the compressor. All the other parts are new as well. I have the straight R-12 refrigerant without the oil. I bought mineral oil compatible with r12.
Thanks!

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Just pulled all the rest of the AC stuff out in frustration and installed the radiator and everything to get her running again. Kind nice not having all that extra stuff in the engine bay. Need to get some new schrader valves for the high and low side ports....now that the hoses are out and the correct condenser is backordered till JUNE, I may as well find a place to rebuild the hoses too. At least I am set to drive it.
On another note, I am glad I opted out of the timing cover backing plate gasket.....it finally arrived today stuffed in way too small of a box and broken....it is so clean of a break at first I thought it was meant to be that way.

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