Builds FJ60 12HT converted engine rebuild (1 Viewer)

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MCJakeCrim

MCJakeCrim

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So my trusty FJ60 with 12HT blew a headgasket (broken alt/water pump belt, long story). Great excuse to rebuild the entire engine.
My back story, I work alot and between three kids and the other half I dont have much free time to rebuild it myself. So i have a local shop with Toyota diesel experience doing the complete rebuild. They are phenomenal, they are here in San Diego, so if you need Toyota Cruiser or any gas cruiser, car, tryck anything, they do it all! All you SoCal Toyota heads and diesel lovers check them out! Certified Car Care and Certified Diesel in Miramar (San Diego). They arebbnletting me pic all my parts and bring them to them and they are focused on the labor and rebuild. Its nice to cherry pic my own parts going in.
My plans include Alfin pistons, MLS head gasket, Gturbo, Air Fuel monitoring gauge and water/methanol injection.
I currently have 3 inch exhuast, pyro and boost gauge with a H55F 5spd swapped in. The whole engine is gonna be stripped down to bolts and bits and rebuilt. Im gonna post updates and pics to share.
I want to thank Tim Law for the help so far and all the other AUS vendors i have been bugging about parts.
Enjoy!
 
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Head is off to the machine shop to get cleaned inspected, polished up and exhaust side smoothed out. Block will be soon to follow, once the pump comes off for servicing, just need to get some measurements and ill be ordering a engine rebuild kit with Alfins. Probably from SMS Diesel and a MLS head gasket from ADS Injection.
 
I am watching this with enthusiasm! I would be interested in hearing of the costs associated as I don’t think I am too far off a rebuild myself (at 571000km’s). Being in Aus hopefully some costs will work out a bit better (only a couple of hours away from GTurbo too...). Your rebuild with the Alfin pistons, MLS head gasket and GTurbo is what I want to do (but I’m not going with water/methanol).
Good luck, and please keep the updates coming!
 
Ordering a MLS from ADS injection from AUS. Myself and Infernalcolonel are having the same build done at the same shop at the same time. So were ordering all parts together in pairs to save on shipping.
Hit up ADS Injection on facebook to get a quote. Tim-Hj61 referred me to ADS injection for MLS gaskets and SMS Diesel for rebuild parts.
Update, Gturbos are ordered from PDI, should be shipping our way soon (thanks to Infernalcolonel for getting that order in). hunting for a new set of oem head bolts for two trucks. 52 12HT head bolts are hard to get as it seems exhasuting all the american toyota oem stock is only 45 or so. will need to back order or find another reputable oem supplier to get 52 total. Head bolts add up pretty expensive at that volume too.
Will be ordering the Alfin rebuild kit when the machine shop gets all the measurements done.
 
Paying attention too. My HJ61 has 464,000km on the clock and I have been debating a prophylactic rebuild versus drive it til it breaks.
 
Have you ordered the pistons yet? According to a few (Gturbo being one) no pistons come even close to genuine pistons in terms of long term reliability and ability to take massive punishment. They’re readily available too. Same pretty much applies to head gasket too...
 
Im currently attempting to place an order for a engine rebuild kit with Alfin pistons with SMS Diesel. So far I got one email back asking where my location was, not even answering my questions (i just wanted clarity of brand and part number for pistin rings). If their customer service doesnt step it up I may go shopping elsewhere.
My block and head are at the machine shop, Ive had the internals measured and am still standard spec, both block and head getting cleaned and milled for the MLS head gasket. My injection pump and injectors are out being serviced.
As far as OEM piston quality we spoke with Gturbo and mentioned plans for MLS and Alfins and Graeme didnt recommend otherwise as far as keeping OEMs. I actually have only been recommended Alfins as a replacement. Most Alfin aftermarket pistons available are Indo, Malaysian, Taiwanese manufactured, but they are Aussie engineered and designed originally and the manufacture process is done over in Indo.
So Im looking into engine rebuild kits with Alfins, anyone who has bought good kits other than from SMS let me know feedback. As Im shopping around. Theres a guy on ebay (i know, cringe) Mr cylinder head or something it was called, Aussie fella who sells engine rebuilds with Alfins that has good feedback and responds well to my questions.
 
Found this info on Facebook ...

We use head bolts out of a kia 2J diesel series engine as they are a much stronger bolt at a 12.9 rating compared to the toyota bolt which is a 10.9 rated bolt and the kia bolt is much much cheaper to buy than the toyota bolt and uses a torque to yeild tension method which has a higher clamping force than the OE bolt. The only modification they need is to be shortened by 4mm and they are ready to fit, they have the same size head flange diameter and are a mulit hex head and they fit under the rocker shaft posts with a few millimetres of clearence.

The vehicle in Australia is a Kia Pregio 2700. They are a work van and are fitted with the 2j 4 cylinder diesel engine. You will need to shorten to the same lenght as the 12HT bolt then fit them with ARP lube on the threads and under the bolt head and tension to 155NM if usinga genuine head gasket
​
That's what I want to do ;)
 
That post was by Riverina Cylinder Heads right?

That is my engine in the pics :). Was the first 12HT built using those head bolts. I can post some higher res pics if you like.
 
wedgetail said:
Have you ordered the pistons yet? According to a few (Gturbo being one) no pistons come even close to genuine pistons in terms of long term reliability and ability to take massive punishment. They’re readily available too. Same pretty much applies to head gasket too...
Click to expand...


Not too sure about that. How may EA products with Alfin inserts have failed?? Be interesting to compare prices as well.
 
I did see the post about the Kia head bolts. Infernalcolonel and I contemplated doing that. but we decided to stick with brand new oem head bolts. we do have a plan to conduct torque checks on the heads. read "torque checks" not re-torque. so we will go through the standard torque procedures without backing off the bolts. ive been doing aviation maintenance for 20+ years on some very complex mechanical aviation parts and never once have i backed off a torque when conducting a re torque. some people may disagree.
ordering my rebuild kit from engines Australia today. they have everything i need. and great customer service. good price too.
Had yo go doen to the machine shop and take a look at my conrod bearings. apparently thats one part that cant be verified by year, model, vin or engine number. you have to visually compare. ill post a pic of the three kindmlif conrod bearings taht are in the 12ht. if you are rebuilding, remember to order the ones that are in your engine.

Screenshot_20181017-151303_Email.jpg
 
Gengis said:
Not too sure about that. How may EA products with Alfin inserts have failed?? Be interesting to compare prices as well.
Click to expand...
Not saying Alfin fail much, just that Toyota’s are better (tougher). That’s coming from Reece at Gturbo and quite a few local engine rebuild shops that mostly do 6 cal diesel Toyota’s
 
Gengis said:
Not too sure about that. How may EA products with Alfin inserts have failed?? Be interesting to compare prices as well.
Click to expand...
Gengis,
How's your Coaster 12HT running? I hit you up a while back as mine is a Coaster 12HT also.
 
Just did a homegrown mod to my crankcase catch can.
I did a lot of research a while back on CCs. I decided on the Terrain Tamer Flashlube Pro catch can.
I put it on my Cruiser a while back and immediately first day, first drive with it my oil pan gasket leaked, and leaked bad. Bad enough to park off the driveway and scrub the mess it left on my concrete.
I chocked it up to the extremely thick paper gasket that is in the catch can. I was running 10psi at the time.
I think too much pressure from the catch can was an issue. So not wanting to give up on a catch can, Ill be running 18psi soon on my new engine. Id like to run as clean as possible and i want a vacuum pull on my crank case vent equal to the psi being pushed into the engine.
what i did was complete clean out the can and degrease it. cut all the paper element out and replace with some 177 and 234 stainless steel mesh filter screen, similar you would use cold brew coffee or homebrewing beer. three layers if SS mesh wrapped around the plastic screen frame the filter. I mainly need some surfaces to cool slow and collect the oil. but gial is for high flow and minimal pressure drop. heres some pics.
 
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