FJ45. Ignition coil is good but no spark?

Joined
Jun 25, 2012
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Hi, I would appreciate help with my query. FJ45 not run in 7 years. Put on new fuel filter and fresh fuel. I can see fuel in carb window. Starter turns engine but no start. There was no spark at plug and no spark at HT lead. I put on a new coil. Also replaced ignition switch. With new coil and ignition switch still no start ??? Still no spark from HT lead with new coil?? My coil has external resistor. Primary, secondary and resistor resistance all seem fine. With the ignition switch at “on” and using voltmeter I have 12 volts. I have not opened distributor. I would appreciate any suggestions on what I should do next to try and get the FJ to start. Thank you.
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
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You have to clean adjust, or replace your points. Very simple system
Thank you for that suggestion. I have never taken off the distributor off but I have some manuals so I will follow them. Would you suggest that I take all of the HT leads off to make it easier to get the distributor cap off to get at the points? Thanks
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
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Check your grounds.
Hi , thanks for your reply. I would appreciate it if you could please explain how I should go about checking the grounds properly.
No need to do that.
Sitting for so long can leave the points stuck open. Might just need a little wd40.
Thanks again. Do you suggest that I just open the clasps on the distributor cap so as to be able to move the cap sufficiently to spray wd40 inside without further disassembly? Thanks
 

whitey45

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Just pull the cap to the side( wires attached) set the point gap to .16 and make sure they are clean and not burnt.
 
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Sometimes when cars with points sit for yonks the points corrode in the nylon bushing and don't spring back.Thats when wd40 can help.
Sometimes corrosion on the surface of the points stops them working. A Points file is often needed to clean the contacts.
As whitey45 says, they can be burnt. A file can sometimes fix them enough to get a spark.
Sometimes there is no gap due to wear, and they need to be adjusted.
I hate points, but at least they're simple.

New points might be a good idea.
Good luck.
 
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Dec 7, 2004
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The best approach (if you are new to ppoints) is to disconnect the battery and clean the terminals/connections going to your distributor. Clean condenser connection Be gentle when you clean the contacts on the points....as mentioned above. And be careful not disturb gap. the The points never close as shaft rotates when the engine is running.
So imagine from a birds eye view the shaft will have some what a shape of bolt head. (Hex) . The points will ride on the shaft. And as it rotates the points will arc when the contacts come close together but never touch. So imagine the flat part of the bolt head the gap is the widest and no arcing occurs. As it rotates, and arrives to the corner of the bolt head the gap should be .16.

The condenser is capacitor and if is that old I would replace. You will need a feeler gauge to adjust your points. I use a piece of Emory cloth(sand paper) to clean the gap. Personally I would replace them. And have an extra set. Anyhow, its good to how to replace. Make sure the connections are not touching the body of the distributor. Unless it's a ground. Do a visual check and continuity check. Then hook up the battery. You should have 12volts at the coil when the ignition is in the on position. Good luck
 
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the points will arc when the contacts come close together but never touch
I'm pretty sure they touch, and the spark is generated just when the points open.
Or thats how I remember. Happy to be educated if wrong.

Or to put it another way. Energy builds in the coil during the time the points are closed [touching] and the energy is released from the coil just as the points open .
 
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Dec 7, 2004
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Gosh, it been a while. You are right. I have it backwards. When you get an arc it runs to spark plug. And keeps repeating itself for each spark plug. hope you got it running.
 
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AZ
The question is: With ignition ON, not cranking motor, just switch to ON, is there 12V at coil positive terminal? Not across coil but 12V getting to coil. Red tester lead on coil pos and black tester lead on clean metal on motor. Not talking about spark.
Please report that result back here before moving on further. I caution you to slow down and let's do some more tests before guessing and replacing and tearing apart.
Did it run when parked? Did you hear it run? What wiring have you done. DO NOT remove distributor. Taking cap off is OK.

Not sure what you actually tested on the ignition switch, the switch has 12V whether it's ON or OFF. The coil test will tell if it's sending voltage to coil. Easy does it. What is your experience level with automotive ignition/wiring/etc. ? I don't know what year you have so can't look up the wiring diagram.
 
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Joined
Jun 25, 2012
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The question is: With ignition ON, not cranking motor, just switch to ON, is there 12V at coil positive terminal? Not across coil but 12V getting to coil. Red tester lead on coil pos and black tester lead on clean metal on motor. Not talking about spark.
Please report that result back here before moving on further. I caution you to slow down and let's do some more tests before guessing and replacing and tearing apart.
Did it run when parked? Did you hear it run? What wiring have you done. DO NOT remove distributor. Taking cap off is OK.

Not sure what you actually tested on the ignition switch, the switch has 12V whether it's ON or OFF. The coil test will tell if it's sending voltage to coil. Easy does it. What is your experience level with automotive ignition/wiring/etc. ? I don't know what year you have so can't look up the wiring diagram.
Thank you very much for your comments. To answer your questions, firstly I have no experience on ignition timing but I am keen to learn. I did have it running about 7 years ago. With the ignition on, not cranking motor there is 12v at the coil positive terminal. I have taken the helpful suggestion of fjwagon who said basically that the points may be stuck closed and not opening at all when the engine is cranking. I have now taken off all of the leads from the distributor, removed the rotator and dust shield. I can see the points which are now closed. My next planned move is to remove all of the spark plugs, go and find the cranking handle And turn the cranking handle clockwise to see if the gaps remain closed. If they are remaining closed I will try and see if I can free them by just moving the points spring with a screwdriver. If I get it to open and close I will try and see if I can clean them a little and maybe apply some wd40. I might also measure the points gap but I really would prefer not to need to attempt adjusting or replacing the points if I can. I would be glad to hear if you think my plan of action is good and I will welcome any suggestions that you may have. Thanks again for your willingness to help.
 
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Normally you would tap the starter and watch the points open and close at each lobe of the shaft. A helper to crank while you look or a remote start switch. Or turn motor by hand. Sometimes if lobe lands on the points follower just right, you can move rotor back and forth to see points open. Setting the gap is VERY important for a no spark situation. So you need to do that. Your motor is in the sort of computer age of ignition as I look at a 1982 diagram. That leaves me out of any further help. Was hoping for 60's 70's model. I am not an expert on Toyota, but older ignitions are the same on any vehicle. If points look good, do open and close and are set to specs, I would normally suspect condenser but not sure all about the 80's stuff.

1. You have said many components are new and there is 12V at coil.
2. You say it ran.
3. If points are not pitted/worn and set, then...
4. If you indeed tested a spark plug for spark and you did it properly, with key on and no spark. then....
5. Condenser or timing or some "igniter" or ECC module or other new school item is bad..... out of my expertise.
6. Observe spark in darkness, even a weak spark would tell us something.
7. FJwagon said gap .16, I'm sure he means .016
8. I don't think I would spray WD40 on anything. If points not opening, analyze for a while. Be SURE rotor is turning. Check rotor contact. check cap contacts. If nothing apparent, get new points.
9. You say no spark at HT lead. Exactly where and how did you test that? At coil? At distributor? What method/technique? Where did you expect to see a spark? Between what and what? Be specific. Then do the same explanation for the spark plug test.
10. If you do not know ignition or wiring or Toyota systems............stop dreaming up things to do. You will case extreme damage. You need advice/service from experts or mechanics.
11. If you continue to answer these questions, we may or may not get somewhere. If not checking for voltage or spark. DISCONNECT negative battery cable while doing work.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
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Normally you would tap the starter and watch the points open and close at each lobe of the shaft. A helper to crank while you look or a remote start switch. Or turn motor by hand. Sometimes if lobe lands on the points follower just right, you can move rotor back and forth to see points open. Setting the gap is VERY important for a no spark situation. So you need to do that. Your motor is in the sort of computer age of ignition as I look at a 1982 diagram. That leaves me out of any further help. Was hoping for 60's 70's model. I am not an expert on Toyota, but older ignitions are the same on any vehicle. If points look good, do open and close and are set to specs, I would normally suspect condenser but not sure all about the 80's stuff.

1. You have said many components are new and there is 12V at coil.
2. You say it ran.
3. If points are not pitted/worn and set, then...
4. If you indeed tested a spark plug for spark and you did it properly, with key on and no spark. then....
5. Condenser or timing or some "igniter" or ECC module or other new school item is bad..... out of my expertise.
6. Observe spark in darkness, even a weak spark would tell us something.
7. FJwagon said gap .16, I'm sure he means .016
8. I don't think I would spray WD40 on anything. If points not opening, analyze for a while. Be SURE rotor is turning. Check rotor contact. check cap contacts. If nothing apparent, get new points.
9. You say no spark at HT lead. Exactly where and how did you test that? At coil? At distributor? What method/technique? Where did you expect to see a spark? Between what and what? Be specific. Then do the same explanation for the spark plug test.
10. If you do not know ignition or wiring or Toyota systems............stop dreaming up things to do. You will case extreme damage. You need advice/service from experts or mechanics.
11. If you continue to answer these questions, we may or may not get somewhere. If not checking for voltage or spark. DISCONNECT negative battery cable while doing work.
Thanks for your further advice. As regards no spark at HT lead, I removed lead from distributor, placed a split pin into end and held it a couple of mm from the cylinder head and had someone turn the ignition to start for a couple of seconds but no spark. I am satisfied that the coil is giving 12 volt readings and it is for this reason that it may be that the points are stuck closed which would explain the no start. I have got my hands on a workshop manual so I will use that to check or change the points. It will be the weekend before I can get to work on this. When I do I should quickly establish if the points are stuck closed. Thank you once again for your comments, I will bear these in mind as I work.
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
20
 
Post a photo of the inside of the distributor after you've removed the cap and rotor.
Thank you for your message. Please find attached photo. I have not cranked the engine to see if the points are opening and closing or if they are stuck closed. From the photo the points look like they could be in poor shape. What do you suggest.? Thanks

4D92F1AA-B8A4-422A-9941-548FA6375E2C.jpeg
 

RAYJON

Get a bigger hammer..
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Oct 20, 2005
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Those look burnt,. Change the points and the condenser, clean all the grounds/connections,. Don't put cheep plugs in it ngk plugs and wires are reasonable price wise...

You can get a 12v coil that eliminates the ballast resistor.. most old tractors have been converted to these..
 

4Cruisers

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That looks like a non-US distributor 1910-61080. Does the vacuum advancer work and hold vacuum?

I'd also recommend a new Toyota condenser, Part Number 19133-60040, retail $6.74. Points Part Number is 04191-41010, retail $14.62. Distributor cap Part Number is 19101-41010, retail $26.21. I buy a lot of my new OEM parts from www.toyotapartsdeal.com, their prices are a bit less than 75% retail.

I can give you a good deal on a new set of NipponDenso points, and I'll throw in some used distributor cap clamps that are in good shape. I also have a supply of new NipponDenso vacuum advancers if yours isn't working. PM me if interested.
 
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