So I've got a couple of these under my belt and pretty much have all the kinks out. It's not nearly as easy as bolting on a set of shortened 40 bows and here is why. The b pillar post that comes out of the stock 40 bows doesn't line up with the hole in the b pillar tub. It's off maybe 3/4 of an inch. As well the standard 40 bows use a 1" diameter tube that slides down in the b pillar. On 45's this hole is 7/8. So in order for it to fit right you have to cut the tube coming out of the bows and weld a 7/8" tube in the correct place. Also I have to fab a plate that the rear bow slides into and helps secure the rear section of the bows to the tub. All the extra fab work means the bows won't be cheap. 950$ just for the cab bows.
The top also is quite complicated. It's a standard 40 top all the way to the b pillar. But after that it's all custom. I designed it to have 5 windows. 2 on the sides and 3 in the back like the 40's. This way you can actually see what's beside you. The way the top fastens is two ways. On the inside I have bungee loops that you will attach to whatever fastener you choose. There are two 45 tubs the late and early. Both have different attachment points. I could have included machine hooks but I only think half of you would have used them. Some people want stainless some want painted, etc... Most people will drill holes in the top plate where the hard top comes down. And attach the bungees there. I include 12 bungee loops. I also am leaving it up to you where you want them. I normally put 3 in each corner. The rest on the back. They are very easy to install. Just requires making a small hole in the flap sewn into the back of the top and squeezing them together. This means there are no holes to drill for footman loops around the outside of your tub. The second form of attachment to now that the top is being held down by the bungees is the magnets. These are crazy strong magnets. Three in each corner and 4 that go on the batten that slides into the rear roll up door. They keep the edges from flopping around in the wind. The rear window can be rolled up just like the 40 windows.
The price for the cab is 875.
The top also is quite complicated. It's a standard 40 top all the way to the b pillar. But after that it's all custom. I designed it to have 5 windows. 2 on the sides and 3 in the back like the 40's. This way you can actually see what's beside you. The way the top fastens is two ways. On the inside I have bungee loops that you will attach to whatever fastener you choose. There are two 45 tubs the late and early. Both have different attachment points. I could have included machine hooks but I only think half of you would have used them. Some people want stainless some want painted, etc... Most people will drill holes in the top plate where the hard top comes down. And attach the bungees there. I include 12 bungee loops. I also am leaving it up to you where you want them. I normally put 3 in each corner. The rest on the back. They are very easy to install. Just requires making a small hole in the flap sewn into the back of the top and squeezing them together. This means there are no holes to drill for footman loops around the outside of your tub. The second form of attachment to now that the top is being held down by the bungees is the magnets. These are crazy strong magnets. Three in each corner and 4 that go on the batten that slides into the rear roll up door. They keep the edges from flopping around in the wind. The rear window can be rolled up just like the 40 windows.
The price for the cab is 875.
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