Fj45 - 2F not starting (1 Viewer)

[nicholaswitcher]

Hi all, I am very new to engines and working on cars as this is my first endeavour.
My fj45 was running, very roughly, but running none the less. One day I tried to start it and it just wound over and over, I did the usual pump the accelerator a few times and choked it with still no luck. I have since replaced the carb, Distributer, spark plugs and battery trying to find the issue.
I set the carb so it was running fairly rich, fuel is reaching the carb fine. I also cleaned the intake and exhaust manifolds connected to the bottom of the carb. When I did the Distributer I set to the bb on the flywheel and the rotor on the dizzy was facing piston #1. I also bought compression gauges and all pistons have roughly 100 psi, some 95 others 105. From what I know this is low pressure but the engine should still run I think.
Another thing I found weird is if I pulled a spark plug and wound over the engine no fuel would come out of the hole, i then checked this with all pistons and no fuel came out of any. I’m not sure if this means anything but it might help. I have attached some photos and a video of it turning over. Open to any ideas of what it might be, thank you.

 

[crawsfire]

That engine compartment has a lot going on but it sounds like the timing is off. Forget about the bb. Pull a plug and hold your finger over that cylinder while someone turns it over. When you get compression blowing out of that cylinder, stop. Check that the piston is at top dead with a screwdriver. If not turn the engine over by hand clock wise or counter clock wise a little until it as at top dead. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointed at that cylinder on the cap. It probably won't be. Lift the distributor up and rotate the rotor until it does. Reinstall the distributor making sure the shaft engages with the oil pump.

 

[DRYHEAT]

What’s up with the wire laying across the battery that appears to have a jumper wire to cylinder number two?

Have you tried putting a screwdriver in one spark plug wire and checking to make sure you’re getting any spark?

If you’re getting spark I would look at the timing issue as mentioned above.

 

[middlecalf]

@crawsfire you also have to make sure that cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.

@DRYHEAT looks like a spark tester.

 

[nicholaswitcher]

What’s up with the wire laying across the battery that appears to have a jumper wire to cylinder number two?

Have you tried putting a screwdriver in one spark plug wire and checking to make sure you’re getting any spark?

If you’re getting spark I would look at the timing issue as mentioned above.

The wire that is sitting across the battery going to cylinder #2 is a spark tester, all it does is light up when the cylinder fires, looking at the timing now

 

[DRYHEAT]

Didn’t originally see the spark tester in the second picture I only looked at the video and saw it briefly and then I saw the picture. thanks.

 

[sggoat]

If you set the timing at the flywheel (ie. 7 deg before TDC), the dizzy rotor should be pointing almost to # 4 spark plug--not #1.

 

[fjwagon]

Just want to add, the flywheel will have rotate twice to complete one cycle of the the opening and closing of all valves. What I mean about cycle is part of exhaust and intake Valves will open/close on the first rotation of the flywheel and the second rotation the rest of the valves and close and open. Sometimes we align it to the wrong rotation. I use a flywheel turner when installing a distributor. So when you rotate the flywheel to the bb position and the piston is not in correct position. Do another complete rotation and you should be TDC. You can also confirm it with how the valves are aligned, you can see them by removing the valve cover. Anyhow, just saying. I hope this helps. An OEM is most helpful to do this if you are learning