Red Fox Ranch
SILVER Star
What are the benefits / drawbacks to the 16" split rims that came on FJ45's? I thought I read somewhere that you could change a tire on the trail??? Was that just BS, anyone know much about these?
FJ45 16" Split rims... Benefits vs. Drawbacks? (1 Viewer)
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yes you can, you can also hurt yourself badly if done wrong. Most tire shops won't touch em anymore..........at least around here. I took mine off the 45, they are holding up a fj40 now
brian
SILVER Star
as cool as they are, are they even street legal? around here atleast, beadlock rims are NOT legal for street use. i would think the same logic would hold up with the splits.
surely if their the original specification wheel, they can't be illegal...
brian
SILVER Star
bad_religion_au said:
never heard of them being brought to America, by toyota.
Hi Kaleb.
Im sure you could change a tire on the trail, The biggest issue I have heard is getting the ring off it, Most people wrap a chain around it a few times so when it rockets off the rim it wont take your head/arm/leg with it. I have no idea how easy it is to get back on, Alot of people have been able to reseat a bead on the trail, I dont know how easy it would be to swap a tire on the rim out in the stick's.
All this could be BS if the split rim's were different than the US split rim's from the same era
Good luck
Im sure you could change a tire on the trail, The biggest issue I have heard is getting the ring off it, Most people wrap a chain around it a few times so when it rockets off the rim it wont take your head/arm/leg with it. I have no idea how easy it is to get back on, Alot of people have been able to reseat a bead on the trail, I dont know how easy it would be to swap a tire on the rim out in the stick's.
All this could be BS if the split rim's were different than the US split rim's from the same era
Good luck
what your 40's didn't come with split rims???
ALL aussie cruisers came with them... welll all agricultural ones, i.e. 40,45,55,75
ALL aussie cruisers came with them... welll all agricultural ones, i.e. 40,45,55,75
I have a set.. The pluses are they are cool and what were stock almost everwhere but here. The tire can be changed out on the trail (i've never done it and I don't plan too with a full size spare) For expeditions I think they carry spare tires (2-3) only to lighten the load . Negatives are no one works on them so you have to know how. They are heavy SOB's and are only in like a 5.5 rim. I was in the salvage yard the other day and happened to see a US 16" split for some kind of chevy I think.
I talked to a couple places when I was still in Idaho. They had no problems at all with split rims. I haven't called any of the local shops in VA.
I have them on my 45LPB. Love them. I got a flat the other day and had it fixed in 30 minutes. You need to carry a set of tools to change the split rim.
Tools
Big Hammer
Spoon Bar
Claw Bar
Patch Kit (vulcanizing fluid and rubber patches)
Extra tubes
soapy water in a small spray can.
Steps
1. Remove wheel from vehicle
2. Remove any access air from tire (important)
3. Mark where the valve stem is on the tire for reference. Take a good look at how the ring looks seated against the wheel. It needs to look the same when you put it back on.
4. With tire removed and fully deflated find an indent on the ring where it meets the wheel. Stick your claw bar in the indent and hammer it a bit so it digs in. Use the wheel as leverage and pry the ring up and away from the tire/wheel.
5. Take your spoon bar and stick it in the gap between the ring and the wheel. Tap the spoon bar with the hammer and walk it around. The ring will seperate from the wheel.
6.Take the tire stem and push it through the wheel so it doesn't snag when you seperate the tire.
7.Pick up the tire and wheel and hold it at a 45 degree angle. Gently tap the wheel on the ring side. This will push the wheel through the tire. May take a bit if its rusty etc. You can use water or any type of lube to help it along.
8. Remove tire flap (a protective rubber ring the sits between the wheel and tube) If its there. Sometimes it isn't.
9. Remove tube air it up and spray soapy water on it. Find the leak. Patch using the scraper and vulcanizing fluid.
10. Now find the place where the tube was patched and use the valve stem mark as reference. Look inside the tire and find what caused the flat if you can. It may still be stuck or it was just a puncture.
11. Once everything is fixed remove the air from the tube and place in the tire noting the mark you made for the valve stem. Place tire flap in next. Make sure the valve stem is fully through the tire flap.
12. Place tire over wheel. Line up the stem and the slot where it goes through the wheel. While placinng tire over the wheel pull valve stem through slot. Now place rest of tire over the wheel a work its way down until flush.
13. IMPORTANT BEFORE PLACING THE RING BACK ON THE WHEEL MAKE SURE THERE IS NOTHING IN THE GROOVE OF THE WHEEL WHERE THE RING LOCKS. USE A SCREW DRIVER OR BRUSH TO CLEAN THE GROOVE. VERIFY THAT THERE IS NO DAMAGE (BURS, HAMMER BENDS, ETC). THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. IF THERE IS DAMAGE TO THE GROOVE STOP NOW.
14.Now place the ring on the wheel. For reference start putting the ring on 180 degrees from where the valve stem is. Basically opposite side of the wheel. You want the split part of the ring opposite the valve stem. Force one side of the ring down into the groove once it catches start tapping the ring around the wheel until you have gone all the way around.
15.IMPORTANT VERIFY THAT THE RING IS IN THE GROOVE ALL THE WAY AROUND TAP ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RING TO MAKE SURE ITS SEATED.
16. Time to air it back up. This is where people get hurt if you haven't done it right. Tire shops use tire cages to air up split rings. You can do several things while airing it up. Wrap heavy chain around the wheel like a figured 8 making sure both sides are wrapped. You could also place it under your vehicle while airing up. Worst case when airing it up aim it away from you.
17. Put about 5-10 pounds of pressure and verify the ring is holding. Then air up the rest of the way.
It sounds like a lot, but it isn't just use comomon sense.
Links
http://www.off-road.com/isuzu/tireplyers.html
http://www.bc4x4.com/pr/2000/pliers/pliers.cfm
http://www.oklahomabicyclesociety.com/hintstips/patching.htm
Bull OUT!
Tools
Big Hammer
Spoon Bar
Claw Bar
Patch Kit (vulcanizing fluid and rubber patches)
Extra tubes
soapy water in a small spray can.
Steps
1. Remove wheel from vehicle
2. Remove any access air from tire (important)
3. Mark where the valve stem is on the tire for reference. Take a good look at how the ring looks seated against the wheel. It needs to look the same when you put it back on.
4. With tire removed and fully deflated find an indent on the ring where it meets the wheel. Stick your claw bar in the indent and hammer it a bit so it digs in. Use the wheel as leverage and pry the ring up and away from the tire/wheel.
5. Take your spoon bar and stick it in the gap between the ring and the wheel. Tap the spoon bar with the hammer and walk it around. The ring will seperate from the wheel.
6.Take the tire stem and push it through the wheel so it doesn't snag when you seperate the tire.
7.Pick up the tire and wheel and hold it at a 45 degree angle. Gently tap the wheel on the ring side. This will push the wheel through the tire. May take a bit if its rusty etc. You can use water or any type of lube to help it along.
8. Remove tire flap (a protective rubber ring the sits between the wheel and tube) If its there. Sometimes it isn't.
9. Remove tube air it up and spray soapy water on it. Find the leak. Patch using the scraper and vulcanizing fluid.
10. Now find the place where the tube was patched and use the valve stem mark as reference. Look inside the tire and find what caused the flat if you can. It may still be stuck or it was just a puncture.
11. Once everything is fixed remove the air from the tube and place in the tire noting the mark you made for the valve stem. Place tire flap in next. Make sure the valve stem is fully through the tire flap.
12. Place tire over wheel. Line up the stem and the slot where it goes through the wheel. While placinng tire over the wheel pull valve stem through slot. Now place rest of tire over the wheel a work its way down until flush.
13. IMPORTANT BEFORE PLACING THE RING BACK ON THE WHEEL MAKE SURE THERE IS NOTHING IN THE GROOVE OF THE WHEEL WHERE THE RING LOCKS. USE A SCREW DRIVER OR BRUSH TO CLEAN THE GROOVE. VERIFY THAT THERE IS NO DAMAGE (BURS, HAMMER BENDS, ETC). THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. IF THERE IS DAMAGE TO THE GROOVE STOP NOW.
14.Now place the ring on the wheel. For reference start putting the ring on 180 degrees from where the valve stem is. Basically opposite side of the wheel. You want the split part of the ring opposite the valve stem. Force one side of the ring down into the groove once it catches start tapping the ring around the wheel until you have gone all the way around.
15.IMPORTANT VERIFY THAT THE RING IS IN THE GROOVE ALL THE WAY AROUND TAP ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RING TO MAKE SURE ITS SEATED.
16. Time to air it back up. This is where people get hurt if you haven't done it right. Tire shops use tire cages to air up split rings. You can do several things while airing it up. Wrap heavy chain around the wheel like a figured 8 making sure both sides are wrapped. You could also place it under your vehicle while airing up. Worst case when airing it up aim it away from you.
17. Put about 5-10 pounds of pressure and verify the ring is holding. Then air up the rest of the way.
It sounds like a lot, but it isn't just use comomon sense.
Links
http://www.off-road.com/isuzu/tireplyers.html
http://www.bc4x4.com/pr/2000/pliers/pliers.cfm
http://www.oklahomabicyclesociety.com/hintstips/patching.htm
Bull OUT!
Split rims in good condition have definite advantages out in the boonies or on a farm. They are definitely NOT illegal in any jurisdiction in the United States and are in no way comparable to bead locks. Over-the-road trucking companies ran for decades on split rim wheels and it's just that they were never much used in the consumer segment. The fact that your local tire merchant isn't willing to work on them does not imply any illegality, only that the company has made the decision that injury liability exists and would rather not face it.
I had split rims on my 45 but decided to go with modern alloy rims which were much lighter and slightly wider.
I had split rims on my 45 but decided to go with modern alloy rims which were much lighter and slightly wider.
Last edited:
Benefits:
They are 16”
With tyre plyers and spoons they are very easy to dismount.
They are original…cool factor
Drawbacks:
They need tubes.
If you air down and crap gets in there…not good for the tubes
They are narrow
They are very heavy (this could be good or bad)
All else being equal non-splits are probably easier to deal with overall, especially in USA.
They are 16”
With tyre plyers and spoons they are very easy to dismount.
They are original…cool factor
Drawbacks:
They need tubes.
If you air down and crap gets in there…not good for the tubes
They are narrow
They are very heavy (this could be good or bad)
All else being equal non-splits are probably easier to deal with overall, especially in USA.
Nice little write up Bull 
cruiser ken said:
I'd be interested to hear what the necks in manassas say when you ask them if they change a split rim... LOL
my gawd, i had no idea you guys were so sick... split rims are cool??? every cruiser i've bought has come with about 6 spare split rims that i cant get rid of, without throwing them off a cliff
Red Fox Ranch
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks to everyone!
Good stuff. lots of good info, I appreciate it!
Bull, thanks for the write up, I was kind of thinking that common sense and safety mindfulness could prevail and success could be had changing a split rim.
I guess the one thing I think about is this: yes there is always a chance of being hurt, however from the sound of the replies, you can change a split rim on the trail if a need be, but no one can change a normal tire/wheel without a machine, correct?
Thanks again!
Good stuff. lots of good info, I appreciate it!
Bull, thanks for the write up, I was kind of thinking that common sense and safety mindfulness could prevail and success could be had changing a split rim.
I guess the one thing I think about is this: yes there is always a chance of being hurt, however from the sound of the replies, you can change a split rim on the trail if a need be, but no one can change a normal tire/wheel without a machine, correct?
Thanks again!
The reason no one will work on a split rim is they are dangerous. If a bolt is weak and it comes apart the bolts and rim as well as the rubber become shrapnel. Not that big of a deal with a small truck tire but on big rigs holding over 50 psi they can fawk you up. I am an aircraft mechanic, my plane uses magnesium split rims, and 375 psi in the nose tires. When one comes apart, people get hurt.
By the way they are 50 state legal because they are original equipment.
By the way they are 50 state legal because they are original equipment.
theMule said:
Tires are often changed on the trail... lever bar to get the old one off, new one on, ratchet strap around the tire, pull down tights, remove the valve core and give it a blast of air
denis
(O) toyota nut (O)
PUPTLAM said:
There are no bolts in the toyota split rim design. The only split item is the outer bead ring which comes off the rest to allow the tire to slip on and off it easier.
I'd take them for remote expedition stuff, but they are too heavy and a bit narrow for my taste for the typical local drives.
Are the Toyota "splits" truely a split wheel? They just have a locking ring for the bead right? Great write up by Bull and there was an article in the Trails a few years ago by Nigel on how to change tires. Didnt seem difficult or dangerous.
