FJ40 Towing (1 Viewer)

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I recently purchased a 1980 FJ40 with the intent of towing it behind my motorhome. Do I need to install a driveshaft disconnect in order to tow it? I have also heard that when towing there is a tendency of the FJ to turn its wheels in the opposite direction when towed around a very tight turn. Is this true and what is a good remedy?

Thanks for any help
 
Somehow you need to disconnect the driveshaft. There are different ways to do it. It's only four bolts and takes me about 10 minutes on each end to do it with a wrench. If you take off the tranny end too (another four bolts) you can drive it around in front wheel drive. I'm sure someone wouldn't like this idea, but it works. When towing unlock the front hubs.

I've heard you can tie off the steering wheel to prevent the fronts from reverse turning. It's certainly a PITA when it happens. You have to stop where you are, go back and manually straighten out the wheels. You can prevent it by not turning sharp and avoiding driveways.

Some states require brakes on the towed vehicle.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Dinghy Towing: Supplemental Brake Systems - update 8/7/06
 
Howdy! Reverse steering while towing is usually the result of having a shackle only lift on the FJ 40, which can result in way wrong caster. Get it aligned with 2-4 degrees and you should be OK John
 
Howdy! Reverse steering while towing is usually the result of having a shackle only lift on the FJ 40, which can result in way wrong caster. Get it aligned with 2-4 degrees and you should be OK John

My stocker does it, no lift, stock shackles.
 
2x on the caster, if it is off it will tend to not follow the tow vehicle. Many things can make the caster off, lift is the major one, but bent or un even warn springs can also cause it.
 
Or......use a tow dolly. I've flat-towed my '40 and only had the "reverse steering" problem when on gravel. Definitely D/C the driveshaft.:beer:
 
1) remove the 4 DS bolts at rear diff. Tie that end securely.
2) unlock the front hubs.

I pull the drive shaft apart and put the long part inside. I wouldn't want it getting out on the freeway.

In addition to your 1 and 2, I put the transfer case in neutral, just to be sure.
 
I pull the drive shaft apart and put the long part inside. I wouldn't want it getting out on the freeway.

In addition to your 1 and 2, I put the transfer case in neutral, just to be sure.

Yeah, I was going to put the T/C in neutral, good idea.

So on the DS, you take it apart...put the long end in the back of the truck and tie up the short side ?

One other thing. I was under the impression (don't remember why) that the DS bolts were a 'one time use' item. Not so ??

John
 
So on the DS, you take it apart...put the long end in the back of the truck and tie up the short side ?

One other thing. I was under the impression (don't remember why) that the DS bolts were a 'one time use' item. Not so ??

I don't even tie up the short side. It's short. I don't ever run the engine with it like that.

I've never figured out the one-time-use zealousy. I would reuse u-bolts too, without hesitation. My drive shaft bolts have been in and out dozens of times.
 
Do the drive shaft splines go in one way or do you mark shaft so you put them together the same way and not cause a balance problem?

I would not hesitate to flat tow it in neutral, sounds like a lot of people do it and have done it for long distance over long period of time, and gears are in oil. Look how many pictures of these rigs have tow bars on them. Some transmissions need to be in gear for proper lubrication, not the case hear. If I was going across country maybe I would pull the shaft, but not likely. I wish I had a trailer and the room to store it, but not in my cards at this point.

I would flat tow for very short distances first and work my way up, that is more for making sure it follows the tow vehicle properly.
 

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