1976 FJ40 South American Spec “Restored” in Colombia, fixed in USA. (1 Viewer)

[ToyotaMatt]

@78Cruzr

OEM Tail light / Lamp Electrical Connector Differences / Types FJ40 1/75 - 10/ 84 ( 8/26/2019 Final OEM TOYOTA Parts Solution Updates )

OEM Tail Light / Lamp Electrical Connector Differences / Types FJ40 9/73 - 10/ 84 i would like to Dedicate this Thread to my Friend & fellow member @Coolerman :) note: if anyone sees a factual error or has input to add please send me a PM so i can't EDIT any errors with a...

forum.ih8mud.com

ok ,

please review this entire thread in detail , if i dont show photos or get in depth in detail , let me know please


i will post photos of a set i have down in my basement parts dept.

ill dig out for u this evening ,

im working down there now stocking parts , so it's cool , i don't mind taking the time to show you .....

 

[Ackcruisers]

This is a great opportunity to provide a visual “How to Guide” for adding the 5th ground as @ToyotaMatt describes. I’ll take detailed photos of the process and post it here for future reference.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

This is a great opportunity to provide a visual “How to Guide” for adding the 5th ground as @ToyotaMatt describes. I’ll take detailed photos of the process and post it here for future reference.
View attachment 2199417

i would never rain on anyone parade plans intentionally .........

but i got board last night , and well ...............


here she is ..........


i will not jamb your thread up , i will post in my connector thread my TECH
Doctrine and Complex array of step by step Photos ...........

im eager to see your finished end product .......

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for posting the image of the best location for the pop rivet. According to @Coolerman, the preferred rivet to use is a stainless steel vs aluminum so as to prevent bi-metal corrosion.

Attach the rivet with small brass terminal ring with back/white 16ga ground wire to back of each housing and run wire with necessary splices to the rear harness tail light section connector. My 1976 harness has a brown six pin male latching connector that mates with corresponding brown 6 pin female latching connector. Continue to run the black/white ground wire through the front section of the rear harness and splice in the fuel & seat belt ground thus eliminating the rear chassis ground. Bring the single black/white ground wire all the way to the main rear harness to main harness connector at firewall. Since my harness has two brown male connectors with a 3 pin and 4 pin latching connector, I will need to use a single pin latching connector to continue black/white ground all the way to clean ground Inside engine compartment.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks for posting the image of the best location for the pop rivet. According to @Coolerman, the preferred rivet to use is a stainless steel vs aluminum so as to prevent bi-metal corrosion.

Attach the rivet with small brass terminal ring with back/white 16ga ground wire to back of each housing and run wire with necessary splices to the rear harness tail light section connector. My 1976 harness has a brown six pin male latching connector that mates with corresponding brown 6 pin female latching connector. Continue to run the black/white ground wire through the front section of the rear harness and splice in the fuel & seat belt ground thus eliminating the rear chassis ground. Bring the single black/white ground wire all the way to the main rear harness to main harness connector at firewall. Since my harness has two brown male connectors with a 3 pin and 4 pin latching connector, I will need to use a single pin latching connector to continue black/white ground all the way to clean ground Inside engine compartment.

View attachment 2199558
View attachment 2199564
View attachment 2199567
View attachment 2199568

or ,

you step it up a notch , and use 8 pin UV rated Locking , latching type

connectors housings , these little guys ROCK ,and are the highest quality

.250 series connectors shells currently offererd on the market today ,

made by the SUMITOMO electric company , JAPAN there a OEM TOYOTA


Parts maker also ........

 

[Ackcruisers]

Awesome !

looks very through ..........

only ,RED flag i so see it the old rusty CIG lighter assy , the male bullets get all

bent and corroded , and the main housings get rusty bad ,

once everything is installed , there a MOTHER to get to and swap out , because

up high center of dash location ........

consider a new kit , and NEW harness side ground female spade and the green

YAZAKI silicon female Bullet connector too .........

its not worth taking the chance ........


- also , make sure you run the updated , late model , 5th ground wires , and

use 1/8" Stainless steel pop-rivits , or aluminum to each rear tail lamps like we

talked about earlier .., then join grounds and home run up front to near

battery known good solid ground points junctions ,



- at this same time point , if need be , splice your ground , and T or branch

it , in other words , a dedicated ground wire to the fuel tank sender , flange ,

via ring terminal , to one of the 5 Phillips head 5mm pan heads , you will now

have a fully polarized , and 100% reliable sender ground signal at all times ,

i would bet $ , you dont have a reliable one now , unless you already , found

that common , missed step from columbia ?






- use color code" WHITE w / black tracer stripe " ,16 gauge , for best results

, tinned copper or Brass solid Ring terminals only , NO PEP BOYZ Crap here



- you scored on the first gen. OEM KOITO"s rear tail lamp NOS too, btw ..........!

there a SOLID investment.........


Here is picture of the fuel sender ground wire. The guys from Colombia did this right.

.

if u need help ,with this simple but criticality important step , dont hesitate to

call my shop hot -line anytime.......



but again , Dam Nice Work brother ,............

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I do not understand where this ring terminal is located ?

it appears to be under your trans tunnel maybe ?

The fuel Sender is located under this Black Grommet Plug on your truck right ?

Fuel / GAS / PETROL Tank SENDING UNIT Service COVER Access Hole , Plug / BODY Grommet Part# 90950-01164 - VintageTEqParts.com

Fuel / GAS / PETROL Tank SENDING UNIT Service COVER Access Hole Plug / BODY Grommet Part # 90950-01164...

vintageteqparts.com

Here is how i understand the fuel sender dedicated ground wire to be installed , via Ring Terminal , to one of the 5mm machine screws on sender flange itself , I personally Exceed OEM TOYOTA spec's here in the critical connection , by upgrading to marine Grade stainless steel Phillips pan heads w/ a spring type lock washer , for Extra Bite ! and solid ground contact
signal at all times 24/7 ..............!

sorry for crappy image all i could find on short notice ...


but , so is this how your set is going on ?

the above image of the blue sheet metal with one lonely stud or bolt confuses me ?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for the detailed photograph of the fuel sender ground at the top of the tank. The image I posted of the wire connected under the fuel tank on body tub is the other end of the fuel sending ground wire. The wire comes down and along the passenger side chassis and then T’s out to that ground location with a ring terminal (shown below as'Fuel Ground'). To help make this clear, below is a detailed image of the section of rear harness that shows the fuel sender and ground at the tank, the reverse switch, transmission connector, body tub ground ring terminal and seat belt connector.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Found the color harness tape that Toyota used to wrap the plastic loom sections of the rear harness. Also, the light blue tape applied on main harness in 1976. This tape was used in various sections to hold harness together before final black harness tape. I have to admit, this is not at all necessary but a few people on MUD may appreciate the insanity.

 

[lelandEOD]

I appreciate the insanity.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Installed the 5th wire ground on my OEM tail lights today. As suggested by @ToyotaMatt, I routed the wire all the way through the rear harness (since it is on my workshop table) to the firewall. Below are the images.

 

[lelandEOD]

The Almighty loves the righteous and those who kick ass at wiring harness restorations.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Working now on installing parking brake switch. There are not many photos on MUD that I located that show this small switch. I sourced a NOS part# 84380-30010 at a fair price with free shipping. Below is image of part I fitted it into the threaded socket on the hand brake bracket. The threads were perfect. The only issue is the 1976 harness I am installing it to has 2 RW wires going into a 2 pin female latching connector and the switch has 2 GW wires and two male OEM barrel connectors. I’m going to cut the barrel connectors and attach a male two pin latching to switch and plug into female parking brake switch. If anyone has a photo of their 1976 parking brake switch it would be great to reference it.

 

[fjwagon]

Sweet, nice to see the progress. Don't be afraid to Create a log. I like the labels to ID what the ends.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

Hope this helps:

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks,@Brian/99uzj100 this is helpful. It appears there is a nut behind the bracket on your image. The part I picked up did not come with that. I’ll pick one up. Based on below image, not sure what 94120-40800 is. looking it up it says “Nut for power takeoff switch rod”.

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

Thanks,@Brian/99uzj100 this is helpful. It appears there is a nut behind the bracket on your image. The part I picked up did not come with that. I’ll pick one up. Based on below image, not sure what 94120-40800 is. looking it up it says “Nut for power takeoff switch rod”.

View attachment 2216033

Probably a generic nut. Maybe the lock nut your new switch is missing?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Last night I successfully bench tested my restored 1976 CA spec OEM wiring harness. This after taking my time (two months) to inspect each wire, clean and repair if necessary. Each nylon connector and terminal was cleaned or replaced using a ratchet crimp tool. Any splices that looked in need of repair I used OEM brass U connectors or Molex non insulated butt connectors double insulated marine grade shrink. Almost everything was purchased by @Coolerman. In my opinion, the harness now is as good or better than factory as it was in great shape to begin with.

The bench test ground was set up as if it were in the truck; grounding it to the engine block via a long wire from my workshop table into garage. Attached that to a grounding block screwed into bench so that all circuits and earth ground were connected. It took a while to set up the system but it works great. Ironically, the only switch that was tested that would not work is my parking brake light switch. I’m going to figure it out later this week. Below is image of harness after testing. No smoke or fire...

NOTE: there are still things that need to be done like the White positive and negative wire connected to cluster. I’m waiting for a heavy duty crimp tool to install factory brass ring connectors.

 

[Coolerman]

Awesome! Glad all that worked out for you! This is exactly how I test harnesses. For power I use an old UPS +12V battery I received from a fellow mud member. I have switches for most years and use old trailer lights for the turn signals. I take old bulbs and solder the correct wire ends on for the interior lights...

Two months huh? Maybe that will help people understand why it takes me so long to build and test a harness from scratch!

On your park brake switch: Take it apart and polish the contacts. Be careful though, those switches are cheap and fragile. I have about a 50% success rate reviving them....

 

[78Cruzr]

Nice work! I am working on the same effort except for my 1978... Thank you for posting an excellent write up and photos