FJ40 Sniper vacuum canister/modulator question (1 Viewer)

[Aircooled1]

Getting it together for sniper install on 77 FJ40 w/ orig 2F. Ive searched the forum and it seems the best way to go will be AC delco vacuum canister, routing one line to base of sniper vacuum , with the vacuum modulator in between to control the flow, with a “T“ off the distributor advance vacuum line to activate the modulator.

Here’s my question: I can’t seem to source the AC Delco 214-552 modulator that I’ve seen used on other builds. Is there an alternative that will work for this? I can wait and keep checking online but if theres an acceptable alternative I’ll get that . I thought you all would know.

Also, I want to make sure I get the right AC delco vacuum canister for this task. I’m concerned my OEM canister is not going to be as functional . Can someone link the part number for the right AC delco vacuum canister? Thanks in advance.

 

[zerotreedelta]

It's on my list to write up better, but I did a bit of creative trickery with the Sniper and used it to control an electric solenoid:

Amazon product ASIN B07KPK6HQS
I tagged on a standard 4-pin relay to augment that solenoid, and then you can use one of the fan signals to run the relay to enable it based on coolant temp (similar to OEM), and use the Sniper's AC-Disable trigger to open the solenoid based on throttle position. I think I ended up using 150* (vs the factory 80*) for the temp enable point, and 10% throttle opening.

Whether it's better than the Delco vacuum control, not sure...technically vacuum would be the correct trigger but the simple (non-Super) Sniper doesn't have that. But it's fairly simple, less vacuum lines to run, and it's been working pretty good so far. Technically you could skip the coolant temp angle and then not need the extra relay - just 12v feed and the ground signal from the AC-Disable wire.

Past that, I'm guessing something like the CP112 would work (or similar...just find the one with the right line sizes):

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/engine-sensors---emissions/emissions---air-management/canister-purge-valve-and-solenoid/711fc85bddd5/standard-ignition-vapor-canister-purge-valve/std0/cp112

 

[letterman52]

I saw the OEM ones on ebay not that long ago.

 

[crewzerdog]

Aircooled1…..how did your Sniper install go? I’ve got a 79FJ40 stock…..been looking at the Sniper for a while and reading the forum posts as well. But can’t seem to find a ‘start to finish’ post complete with pictures and ‘parts list’. I‘m hoping to reuse my current distributor and coil as well as current OEM gas tank set up……I see some folks are using inline high pressure fuel pump attached to frame rails while others are using McRobb power surge tank in conjunction with stock fuel pump. I intend to use the Redline intake adapter and air breather adapter to keep a clean look. I’ll remove all the smog pump, vacuum lines and cannisters and air rail to ‘declutter’ the look as well. Fortunately no longer required to get inspected for that stuff. I’ll keep everything just in case the ‘next owner’ wants to reinstall it. . Any other suggestions from those of you that have done the Sniper install? Thanks in advance.

 

[GA Architect]

Aircooled1…..how did your Sniper install go? I’ve got a 79FJ40 stock…..been looking at the Sniper for a while and reading the forum posts as well. But can’t seem to find a ‘start to finish’ post complete with pictures and ‘parts list’. I‘m hoping to reuse my current distributor and coil as well as current OEM gas tank set up……I see some folks are using inline high pressure fuel pump attached to frame rails while others are using McRobb power surge tank in conjunction with stock fuel pump. I intend to use the Redline intake adapter and air breather adapter to keep a clean look. I’ll remove all the smog pump, vacuum lines and cannisters and air rail to ‘declutter’ the look as well. Fortunately no longer required to get inspected for that stuff. I’ll keep everything just in case the ‘next owner’ wants to reinstall it. . Any other suggestions from those of you that have done the Sniper install? Thanks in advance.

When the install is done correctly, you will be amazed at the performance upgrade the Sniper provides for the 2F.

Feel free to reach out if you need any help.

 

[crewzerdog]

Thanks….will do. Think this is going to be my ‘winter project’…..rather do this than remodel the basement. . Did you do the frame rail fuel pump or the McRobb?

 

[GA Architect]

Thanks….will do. Think this is going to be my ‘winter project’…..rather do this than remodel the basement. . Did you do the frame rail fuel pump or the McRobb?

frame rail..... -> Click here <- Start with post #1,525 for my Sniper install

 

[zerotreedelta]

If you've got a "newer" 40 with the factory return line, the frame rail pump is pretty easy-peasy, and the Walbro 392s are pretty solid pumps. I did the Walbro 392 with a pressure regulating secondary filter, and then just ran a single line up to the Sniper with the return capped.

Snagged some notes from a prior DM thread with the OP on it as well (with parts links), in case it helps.

The install is pretty straightforward...frankly, the fiddliest part was getting the wiring harness cleaned up and presentable. I ended up de-looming what they had and relocating the fuel pump relay, then rebundling, for what it's worth.

I did mine the cheap way, all piecemeal - it started with a refurb' Sniper even. I did look at both of those (Mosley and Redline), but figured I could make the parts vs buy. I think my install ended up closer to Redline in the end, but it's got a flavor of each. Their air cleaner adapter and firewall bracket are pretty similar to what I did, but my intake adapter is closer to Mosley. The generic adapter for a Rochester to Holley is really close, the inner holes just need to get filled (I used JB Weld) and then redrilled to match the intake. I preferred the 24" Lokar over the 36" that both seem to ship, with the cable pull going toward firewall from the Holley (vs some pulling forward for some reason).

Pick your poison on the fuel lines...I went with capping the Sniper's return port and using a regulated filter and a Walbro 392 and a basic Wix prefilter on the frame, so there's only one fuel line to the Sniper. That's more like Mosley, looks like Redline ran two lines and used the regulator in the Sniper...both work.

The mechanical fuel pump blockoff plate is just a piece of steel, pretty easy to fab up and use a stock fuel pump gasket.

 

[Aircooled1]

Aircooled1…..how did your Sniper install go? I’ve got a 79FJ40 stock…..been looking at the Sniper for a while and reading the forum posts as well. But can’t seem to find a ‘start to finish’ post complete with pictures and ‘parts list’. I‘m hoping to reuse my current distributor and coil as well as current OEM gas tank set up……I see some folks are using inline high pressure fuel pump attached to frame rails while others are using McRobb power surge tank in conjunction with stock fuel pump. I intend to use the Redline intake adapter and air breather adapter to keep a clean look. I’ll remove all the smog pump, vacuum lines and cannisters and air rail to ‘declutter’ the look as well. Fortunately no longer required to get inspected for that stuff. I’ll keep everything just in case the ‘next owner’ wants to reinstall it. . Any other suggestions from those of you that have done the Sniper install? Thanks in advance.

I’m still putting the parts together. Will let you know soon once i get it done. I was able to find the right canister and modulator. I’m going to mount the canister on the driver side and use one of the original firewall-mounted hardlines to connect canister to fuel tank . Hopefully this will minimize lines traversing the engine bay. Will see how it turns out. So hopefully will only have the smaller line from base of sniper going to modulator at the “T” then going to distributor advance Across engine. On driver side should only have larger diameter vac line for purge. The hardline will keep the vaccuum line from the tank inconspicuous. I might even try to find a way to fabricate a canister bracket that attaches to the washer reservoir OEM bracket.

 

[crewzerdog]

Thanks guys…..very helpful. Since I do have one of the “newer” 40s with the return line…..I’ll do the frame rail install with the Walbro….heard a lot of positive stuff about them. I’ll be checking out the links provided……and of course more questions likely to follow. Thanks again!

 

[crewzerdog]

Ga Architect….reviewed the original post you linked for me…..excellent work! If you have some pictures of how you hooked up/fab’d the accelerator pedal/cable that would be nice to see. Also why did you change out your dizzy? I’ve heard about changing over to HEI ‘one wire’ distributor that has the coil built in….wondering if this is a good way to go over my stock distributor to allow for the Sniper to adjust timing electronically??? After all….its just money right?!! Ouch$$

 

[zerotreedelta]

Can't speak to GA's install, but I did swap the distributor to a Hyperspark to let the Sniper control the timing...but my OEM dizzy was fairly tired. Works well and a nice clean install, but does take a little fiddling to make it go on the 2F...not sure on the improvement over stock as I never ran the stock combo with the Sniper. I don't think you can control the timing on the HEI, but not 100% as I didn't dig at that route.

There's some good info in this thread if you haven't found it as well - some nuggets on throttle cables and adapters, and I dumped a template of my bracket up in there before I lost it in the recycle bin : Idiots Guide to Holley Sniper Install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/idiots-guide-to-holley-sniper-install.1255081/page-3#post-14088105

 

[crewzerdog]

Thanks zerotreedelta…..nice work on the brackets. While adjusting the timing with the Sniper would be “nice” its not a deal killer with me staying stock dizzy…..my timing light still works.

 

[GA Architect]

Ga Architect….reviewed the original post you linked for me…..excellent work! If you have some pictures of how you hooked up/fab’d the accelerator pedal/cable that would be nice to see. Also why did you change out your dizzy? I’ve heard about changing over to HEI ‘one wire’ distributor that has the coil built in….wondering if this is a good way to go over my stock distributor to allow for the Sniper to adjust timing electronically??? After all….its just money right?!! Ouch$$

My Accelerator pedal is an OEM unit I purchased to match the '77 pedal that was on my rig. I drilled out the ball where it would have linked to the vertical torque rod attachment. Now the pedal has a hole where the new Lokar cable attaches. My firewall bracket is about the same as the Red Line one, -> click here <- But theirs is much simpler and a one piece bracket.

Dizzy - I had an '86 2F rebuilt in 2015 but used all my '77 attachments. Thus, I reinstalled the points dizzy.....Fast forward to 2020, I had the '86 electronic dizzy reconditioned and I installed it with the Sniper install. Why I did this, no particular reason other than the electronic dizzy is what the '86 2F came with, so (to some degree) it is probably a better dizzy than the '77.

NOTE: I kept all the original parts from my Sniper install, so if I ever need to revert back to the Aisin carb set-up, easy-peazy.