FJ40 Restoration with a 2UZ / R150 Manual Transmisson (1 Viewer)

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Here is the first startup with the exhaust.


Sounds great!
Good point, I may change that now that you point that out. It should be good for the 60psi but then again losing all my oil is a bad day. Those are the same fittings on my air compressor at 120psi so in theory they should hold, if they don't loosen from normal vibration.
OK cool, if you have experience with the fittings then all should be good. But ja, losing oil pressure at 6k rpm would suck. A lot.
 
Have you tried the steering, it looks like it will be backwards ? The caster angle as is will be scary to drive, if you shim it the pitman will not work and it will steer the wrong way anyway as is.
You may have to clarify for me. So I have tried the steering and it is correct. That is the beauty of using the Astro van steering box, vs the standard Saginaw box. the internals are different and rotate opposite of the standard Saginaw box. As for the caster are you referring to the angle of the steering box / pitman arm, or the caster of the axle itself? The axle itself is in the stock location, so the caster should be stock in that respect.
 
The adapter is AKINA motorsportz, I think its the same one that is all over ebay as well. This is my second UZ swap, the first time I used the ebay one, the one of this FJ is AKINA.
Beautiful ride!!!

Might be a dumb question but will uou just be reusing the stock fj40 pedal to actuate the 2uz cable actuated but wire activated throttle body?

Watching this very closely….
 
Beautiful ride!!!

Might be a dumb question but will uou just be reusing the stock fj40 pedal to actuate the 2uz cable actuated but wire activated throttle body?

Watching this very closely….
This might be the long answer lol, but the 2UZ had a couple different throttle bodies through the years. They are all drive by wire, but still different. The early ones had a normal petal with a cable going to the throttle body, but on the throttle body there is a servo that actually controls the butterfly. In the later years they went full drive by wire, where the pedal is just electronic with no cable, and they used a different servo on the throttle body. I have the earlier style, I had both pedals so I cut both and welded on the top part of the 2UZ one to the original FJ one so it would accept the 2UZ cable. The part on the fire wall is from the 2UZ as well, one of the original mounting holes worked, but I had to make the second. Hopefully that makes sense.


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Nice! Exactly what I did. Makes me still think about putting the cruise control back in mine. I wonder if you could get it to work but with your manual but only in 5th like alot of Hiluxs do :hmm:
 
This might be the long answer lol, but the 2UZ had a couple different throttle bodies through the years. They are all drive by wire, but still different. The early ones had a normal petal with a cable going to the throttle body, but on the throttle body there is a servo that actually controls the butterfly. In the later years they went full drive by wire, where the pedal is just electronic with no cable, and they used a different servo on the throttle body. I have the earlier style, I had both pedals so I cut both and welded on the top part of the 2UZ one to the original FJ one so it would accept the 2UZ cable. The part on the fire wall is from the 2UZ as well, one of the original mounting holes worked, but I had to make the second. Hopefully that makes sense.


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Man thanks for the idea. I’m in the middle of this swap for my truck and I tell you if I was ever stumped…now is the time lol
 
I really dig your method for engine mounts - very simple and effective. How's seat position in relation to shifters? It looks like they are quite far back, curious if for a taller person shifting the entire drivetrain forward would help.

Big fan of the trans cover tweak to add foot room, that's my one gripe inside the truck from factory.
 
Man thanks for the idea. I’m in the middle of this swap for my truck and I tell you if I was ever stumped…now is the time lol
lol you got that right, it helps that I put a 1UZ in my 94 toyota pickup, so a lot of the things I have seen before, but there's also a lot I have not.
 
I really dig your method for engine mounts - very simple and effective. How's seat position in relation to shifters? It looks like they are quite far back, curious if for a taller person shifting the entire drivetrain forward would help.

Big fan of the trans cover tweak to add foot room, that's my one gripe inside the truck from factory.
 
I really dig your method for engine mounts - very simple and effective. How's seat position in relation to shifters? It looks like they are quite far back, curious if for a taller person shifting the entire drivetrain forward would help.

Big fan of the trans cover tweak to add foot room, that's my one gripe inside the truck from factory.
This shifter has been moved sense the picture in here. I cut and rewelded them further forward, you are correct they are way far back in that picture. as for the foot space, yeah glad I changed that, there wasn't much room for a normal shoe let a lone a work boot. the steering would have been a real mess to move the drive train forward, but you are right forward would help other things, especially the super short rear drive shaft. I haven't dealt with that just yet.
 
Ok so it's been a while for an update, but it's on the road! I have some questions on the FST installation and the front heater.

For the FST, how does the real steel channel go on the front windshield? From my pictures you can see my cover is not fitting well at all. On the B-pillar your can see where the cover is reinforced and it's about 1.5-2" to far forward. So I'm thinking I have the windshield channel installed wrong, but struggling to find pictures on how it should be. If anyone can share that would be great!

For the front heater, I'm just trying to figure out why I have two ports on the driver side, everything I read there is only one on each side for the defrosters.

Any help would be appreciated, pictures always help even more!

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Here are some more pictures of the FST issues, so if I take it off the windshield and line it up correctly on the B pillar, you can see how short it is on the windshield now. It's this top made for a different model? It is new but has been sitting around for 10+ years. Could it have shrank that much over time?! It also seems pretty short on the sides and back. My door fits pretty good, so I know the distance between the A and B pillars have to be close.

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Working on getting the original speedometer working with my 94 pickup transfer case. The first picture is the digital Speedo sending unit and an older cable driven one from an older Toyota pickup. When you take the digital one apart you will find the gear shaft is similar and will accept a cable. So now for the Hodge podge of parts to make it work. I used the older Toyota pickup gear shaft because it's longer, pressed the gears of, pressed the newer gear on the older shaft. Then took all the digital parts off, milled it down as far as I could, cut the threads off the older cable driven unit, turned both parts so they were a press fit. In the last picture is the digital one compared to my home made one. To my surprise when I attached everything my speedometer worked and it was within +/- 1 mph with gps! I never thought it would be correct, just thought it would be a starting point. I'll post more pictures.

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I had to make a bushing for the original dash so I could use the ~89 pickup Speedo cable. And yes that's actually me going 80mph!

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Got the stabilizer shock in place. Also shimmed the front axle 4 degrees to give me a positive caster angle. This makes it drive much better. It was real steering sensitive before.

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