FJ40 resto questions (1 Viewer)

[softdrinkviking]

Hi All,


First off, I have a March 1971 FJ40. I purchased it in 1996, and I'm the third owner. (the second owner was a friend who sold it to me immediately, so I'm really the 2nd) It's been through 3 partial restorations since then and is now mechanically sound, but having a rust problem.
It's been awhile since I had time to concentrate on the FJ, but I've made a commitment to do a more thorough body repair and I want to document as much of it as I can here, where I have always shared it. As soon as I get the ball rolling, I'll make a proper resto thread.

That being said, I have some decisions to make about how to deal with the issues that I know I have beforehand.

First question on my mind is the doors. My driver door is getting a bit messed up. It has a small crack in the middle at the top, and it buckles out somewhat.

Question is: should I get another door, or is it feasible to fix this one? I think I would want to open it up and repaint the inside anyways, so I'd like to keep it if possible. Is there some reference as to what it's supposed to look like on the inside so that I can attach new metal in a way that makes sense?

Second major question is the transmission.

I want to put a 5 speed H55 in it. I know there is a need to use a 2F bellhousing and to update the emergency brake in some way (although I'm a bit fuzzy on how exactly). I heard some people put disc brakes on for this, but I don't think I'll be driving fast enough to need it.

Will anything else need to be done?

Last question is:

What source(s) do people recommend for body panels for a 71 FJ40?

I have seen some random vendors on ebay and here and there, but I don't know one from the other.

Thanks,

 

[Jdc1]

Doors- Anything is possible but without seeing them it’s hard to make a recommendation. Are you doing the work yourself? If not you have to weigh labor cost to fix what you have or source replacements.

Many(me included) have had good luck with Real Steel replacement panels. CCOT also has a decent reputation. From what I’ve heard on the forum the panels coming out of South America have been nothing but headaches.

 

[ICD FJ40]

Crack in door is door is a relative term. Perhaps a photo of your crack would help?

 

[softdrinkviking]

Crack in door is door is a relative term. Perhaps a photo of your crack would help?

I can take photos on Wednesday. (sorry away from it's location right now)

I can describe the crack: It's dead in the center at the top of the door. It encompasses the entire top lip that curls over towards the inside, and runs down a few millimeters on the outside. It's very small, but with the addition of some broken element on inside, is enough to allow the door to separate and puff out a bit. There must be some internal metal piece that has rusted thru or snapped. The window is still okay though. (I replaced the regular and tracks about 20years ago).

 

[softdrinkviking]

Doors- Anything is possible but without seeing them it’s hard to make a recommendation. Are you doing the work yourself? If not you have to weigh labor cost to fix what you have or source replacements.

Many(me included) have had good luck with Real Steel replacement panels. CCOT also has a decent reputation. From what I’ve heard on the forum the panels coming out of South America have been nothing but headaches.

Not doing the work myself. I'm currently expecting a body shop to do the work. I would consider sending the doors to a specialist if people here think it makes more sense, and you have a specific recommendation.

 

[Jdc1]

Not doing the work myself. I'm currently expecting a body shop to do the work. I would consider sending the doors to a specialist if people here think it makes more sense, and you have a specific recommendation.

If the shop that will be doing the body and paint work can’t fix the doors, you should find another shop.

 

[4Cruisers]

Second major question is the transmission.

I want to put a 5 speed H55 in it. I know there is a need to use a 2F bellhousing and to update the emergency brake in some way (although I'm a bit fuzzy on how exactly). I heard some people put disc brakes on for this, but I don't think I'll be driving fast enough to need it.

Will anything else need to be done?

To install an H55f you'll also need to fabricate a transmission crossmember, change your driveshaft lengths, modify the driveshafts at the transfer case to match the output flange bolt size/pattern, clearance the 2F bellhousing a bit to clear the "ears" on the H55f, and a few more things. Do some searching, there are a lot of posts here on MUD.

If you don't think you'll be driving fast enough to need disc brakes you probably don't need the overdrive of an H55f. For lower gearing find a good used H41 4-speed with lower 1st through 3rd gearing (same gearing as the H55f). A lot less expensive and a lot easier modification. Here are some benefits of an H41 over an H55f in an FJ40:

- Less worry about the angles of a very short rear driveshaft.
- Early H41 with a one-piece transfer case (the one you already have behind your 3-speed, which has a little lower gearing also ) lets you retain the drum parking brake on the transfer case.
- No need to clearance the 2F bellhousing.
- You can shoehorn the transmission and transfer case into the FJ40 without having to relocate the torque tube (but it does make it easier to service the parking brake if you do).
- You can hang the transmission and transfer case off the bellhousing - no need for a separate transmission crossmember.
- And probably a few other benefits I haven't thought about.

 

[softdrinkviking]

find a good used H41 4-speed with lower 1st through 3rd gearing (same gearing as the H55f). A lot less expensive and a lot easier modification.

Thanks for the additional info and ideas; I found your 2017 post on the H41.
I suppose I'm still leaning towards the H55, but it's good to know there are other options. It seems as though I may have to do front discs for the H55 though, so it's good I start factoring that into the equation.

 

[4Cruisers]

Thanks for the additional info and ideas; I found your 2017 post on the H41.
I suppose I'm still leaning towards the H55, but it's good to know there are other options. It seems as though I may have to do front discs for the H55 though, so it's good I start factoring that into the equation.

If you go with an H55f it'll have a split transfer case. They didn't come with a parking brake in the US, so it's expensive to buy one or convert with the needed parts. You could find a later ('81 through '83) FJ40 rear axle, have an FJ60 axle housing shortened to match an FJ40 housing (don't know if anyone's doing this any more), or find a 70-Series rear axle (and relocate the spring perches). All of these would get you rear axle parking brakes. You'd also have to change the parking brake lever and cable setup to make this work.

 

[softdrinkviking]

If the shop that will be doing the body and paint work can’t fix the doors, you should find another shop.

Noted. I think the guys I found for this are pretty competent.
However, I wasn't really able to find pictures of the inside of an early FJ40 door, so I was worried about what it should look like on the inside if there is stuff broken or rusted away.
If anyone here has seen something like photos of the inside, or an inside of door restoration for a ~71 cruiser with the metal doors, I would be interested to see it.

Thanks

 

[softdrinkviking]

If you go with an H55f it'll have a split transfer case. They didn't come with a parking brake in the US, so it's expensive to buy one or convert with the needed parts.

That does sound like a pain in the ass. I was under the impression that the h55 kits generally just swap the drum mounted on the transfer case to a disk unit that sits on the actual transfer case itself. I've never heard anyone mention putting the ebrake on the rear axle of a 40; I thought that was a more modern way of doing it.

 

[4Cruisers]

The H55fs only came with split transfer cases, and only the non-US markets got them with parking brakes. Parts needed to swap in a drum include the drum itself, the extension housing, and longer transfer case output shaft. They used the same rear seal as the one-piece transfer cases with parking brakes. Last I read a set of good used parts for the conversion was way more than $500. Georg @orangefj45 at Valley Hybrids may still have some of the new old stock parts for the conversion. For my '71 FJ40 with a later H41 I bought an entire used transfer case from @joekatana, complete with drum parking brake, from a BJ45.

 

[FJ404345]

11 posts without any pics, this never happened !!

 

[orangefj45]

@4Cruisers is spot on with the H55f info he's posted. However, you can run the factory 4-speed BH from a 74-81 FJ40/45/55 and utilize the BH mounts just like the factory 3 or 4 speed transmissions do.
We keep new H55f transmissions in stock and build "drop-in" units for the shop ( Valley Hybrids ) as well as do-it-youself customers and ship them all over the US. We also have some of the factory e-brake kits in stock but they're starting to run out and I doubt any more will be available; these have been extremely difficult to find.
Happy to help!
Georg