FJ40 Reassembly Steps/Process Reference? (1 Viewer)

[TimOrmondBeach]

I am looking for an FJ40 reassembly steps/process for reference. I have noticed in some builds that all to often parts get installed and then need removed again to install another part first. Just looking to save a little time...I appreciate any leads. Thanks!

 

[B y r o n]

Are you talking about reassembly from bare frame to completion or somewhere in between?

 

[markh11]

How about all of the above... that would be very useful information in almost all circumstances... A frame off restoration should include all those necessary steps and in what order, allowing a more effective and efficient process. And maybe we might look at some where in between... with popular upgrades and modifications... suspension... carb... exhaust... distributor... front knuckles... differential upgrades... disk brakes... and this list could go on...
Bottom line, there is a tremendous amount of knowledge that has the potential to be lost if we don't get it documented...

 

[TimOrmondBeach]

Are you talking about reassembly from bare frame to completion or somewhere in between?

Somewhere in between. Basically body assembly to the chassis (My engine is already on the chassis). I am not looking for fine details...just at a high level of which parts are suggested to go on first. For example: I have been watching this thread and he ran into the same situation.

Just not sure if anyone out there had a high level list of which part is recommended to go on first.

 

[zerotreedelta]

It's fairly intuitive, I don't recall too many of those types of gotchas. The vid' above was the main one - I wanted to get the fuel tank in to get it moving under power, but you need the heater hoses in first as they run under the cover and have some clips. That means you need the heater in, but it's easier to get the dash knobs and wiring first. So dash => heater => fuel tank...then seats.

The only other "non-intuitive" one was that TECHNICALLY the front doors need to go on before the hardtop, as the windshield blocks the upper factory pin unless folded. I wanted the ability to pull the doors as needed, so I just shaved the head of the pin and trimmed it a little bit to clear. Some put the pin upside down instead.

Past that...test any systems you can, as soon as you can. The more stuff goes on, the harder it is to work on it as there's more junk in the way.

 

[OlYellr]

An alternative to shaving the pin head & trim would be to shave your wallet a smidge with the pins by @SMG - they screw on and use thread locker (l am a fan of the metal bushing) - one could install upside down - then if door removal is needed - don't need to remove roof to then push windshield down to then take off door.

@zerotreedelta method is an appropriate solution too - not dismissing it. I was going down that route as well until I saw Nolan post in one of his treads about using those pins on a build. Truth in lending, I just ordered more pins to do the rest of my rig - so I have a bias.

Someone else sells quick hinges - if you would swap out with half doors in summer. Last I knew, he was in-between parts supplier.

Stainless Steel Windshield/Doors/Hood/Amby FJ40 Hinge Pins with Bronze Bushings. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stainless-steel-windshield-doors-hood-amby-fj40-hinge-pins-with-bronze-bushings.1036775/

 

[zerotreedelta]

That is a nice setup...I had the OEM-style but stainless pins, so I didn't worry too much about shaving, but those would def be easier for future removal. I don't plan on pulling doors much, but good info.

The only other "unintuitive" minor assembly-order item I recall was around the battery support, and that horizontal tray that tucks under it. I did one first (support?) but ended up removing it to more easily install the other...it wasn't impossible, but it was faster to remove/reinstall than fight with some blocked access.