Fj40 rear disc conversion (1 Viewer)

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Regardless of the age of this thread, does anyone have bracket plans for a front or rear disc brake conversion?

Thanks

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Absolutely. The caliper you would use in front of the axle on the DS would be the caliper to use behind the axle on the PS, to keep the bleed screw up.

you want the bleeder screws on the calipers are oriented towards the top so that you can get the air out
 
well...from an old fart, thanks! tomorrow I will give it a try1 once again thanks!
 
As someone who is looking to take on this challenge on my 1980 40 soon, I was looking on SOR and they want you to buy what appears to be a pumpkin gasket and axle seals when you purchase their rear disc brake kit... I do not have to open the pumpkin up or remove the axles to convert to rear discs... Right..??

Also, I have been looking for the right kit, and I see Man-A-Fre's, SOR's, JTO's and think it is "Poser" who sells them here on Mud... What is the best kit to get...?? I want a complete kit... I don't really want to go to many different sources to "put a kit together" kind of thing!

I see SOR's and MAF's is a single piston caliper... Are there better kits / calipers to choose from...?? (Dual piston etc)

I read other posts here that say a proportioning valve is necessary to better regulate pressure to the rear brakes... Is it necessary?? What valve is best for this..??

One last question... Do I need to do anything to my brake booster / Master Cylinder to accommodate the rear disc brake setup / change..??? Is the factory booster on my 40 enough...??

Thanks in advance,

Darius
 
sent you a PM
 
You only have to open the pumpkin and remove the axles if you want to remove the brake backing plates in one piece. If you cut off the backing plates, no need to remove axles.

I went with Poser's brackets and rotors, I'd rather buy from him than any of the others you mentioned. The rest of the pieces/parts are too easy to find locally.

Some people insist that a proportioning valve is mandatory. I bought a Wilwood, but found I did not need it. But that is on a longer wheelbase, heavier rear FJ55...
FJ40s may be more sensitive.

I pulled the residual valve out of the rear circuit in the brake master, just like I pulled it out of the front circuit when I did front discs...

Your factory booster should work just fine, mine does.
 
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well, first i can tell you what i did...and they work well... i read here and did reshesrch....

i bought the brackets from jt's 60$ then i went to orileys, bought loaded 1988 calapers for montcarlo (single piston).bought rotors there too(i bought the wrong ones) 1/2 ton but we turnrd them down and they work well.banjobolts and brake adaptors and 1.5 in high grade 3/8 bolts/nuts and locking washers.
watch where you mount bracket it goes both ways mine are uo front and high. tough to get brake line on calapers but is safe over axle.
i replaced my slave sylinder (it was leaking) but your rear resivoir you want to change it, they should be the same (big) size. simple fix. you dont have to pull axles if you have a torch, cut off backing plate, and leave axles alone!

search, here and read. there are kits bot you are paying 2wice as much for it. now with this combination my rear brakes do lock up first but only on hard braking and for now its ok, but man oh! man does it stop well!!

hope this helps u

Dennis
 
i agree with blue77fj...
 
It has been close to ten years since I put rear disc brakes on so my memory is a bit weak, but here is what I remember.

I used poser's brackets and ordered stainless steel braided flex lines. Everything else I got locally. Discs were taken to a local machine shop to have the center hole opened up to fit over the Toyota axle end. Monte Carlo calipers were used.

To answer Pigheads question about an adjustable proportioning valve on a 40. Yes, it will be needed since the 40 is so much lighter on the rear end. I used a Wilwood prop valve. To get the correct adjustment I used a gravel road, adjusting the Wilwood valve until I had the front brakes locking just before the rears. I ended up with some very good brakes.

Don
 
Great info! Does anyone has the drawings for the front axle caliper braket? Since I don't live in the U.S. I don't have access to disk brake kits around here, maybe someone has the drawings for the braket and the parts I need to get disk brakes on a 1981 FJ45.
 
ColToyota said:
Great info! Does anyone has the drawings for the front axle caliper braket? Since I don't live in the U.S. I don't have access to disk brake kits around here, maybe someone has the drawings for the braket and the parts I need to get disk brakes on a 1981 FJ45.

Use the knuckles out from a 60, 62, or minitruck.
 
Use the knuckles out from a 60, 62, or minitruck.

Minitruck (HiLux 79-85) are hard to find down here. Maybe 60 series front axle but it's somewhat expensive tho, I will look around.

70 series could fit? Or maybe a list of Chevy parts that could fit? The bracket seems intrincated but I guess I could find the way to manufacture it.
 
adjusting the Wilwood valve until I had the front brakes locking just before the rears. I ended up with some very good brakes.


Hmm...I'm thinking I would like my rears to lock up just before my fronts?
 
Hmm...I'm thinking I would like my rears to lock up just before my fronts?

in a race car, maybe yes - not in a cruiser

seems to me this has been discussed ad nauseam over the years . . .
 
would be interested to hear from any Aussie comrades who have found a way of doing this conversion using locally sourced parts......precious few monte carlo down under! :)
 
Hmm...I'm thinking I would like my rears to lock up just before my fronts?

Rears locking before the front, on a short wheelbase rig, will easily put you in a position looking back where you just came from, and needing a new pair of shorts. Been there, done that, and never want to be there again.

Don
 

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