FJ40 Rear diff thrust washers (1 Viewer)

[mrtodds77]

I am putting in a new Aussie locker in my 69. I replaced the wheel bearings and seals while I had it apart. But the Aussie locker said to inspect the thrust lockers and replace if necessary.

At first I thought the old ones were ok. Not warped or worn. They had this nice copper look to them. Then I looked closer and they had this groove on the inside of both thrust washers that looked like they had been run up against a pipe. So I thought I better get new ones.

But the new ones I got are 3mm less in diameter and I’m worried about dirt or a metal shaving getting in the gap.

So I looked at the original ones closer and the channel looks more like part of the design rather than wear. They look like a much better design.

Which ones do you all think I should use?

 

[ibinazbass]

Is there a difference in the thickness between new and old? You're correct that the groove is indeed part of the design.

 

[mrtodds77]

They are both the same thickness, about 1.50 mm.
The Aussie locker seems to require this thickness. The thrust washers come thicker if you need them but I found it is a very tight fit even with these smallest thickness thrust washers.

 

[65swb45]

If the stock ones meet the required tolerance, I would reuse them.

 

[Steamer]

I agree with Mark. Have you measured the tolerance? Explained here in "THIS" video starting at 6:00. (ignore that it's a jeep)

 

[mrtodds77]

On the tolerances it’s funny you asked. The first center test I had .007 space on each side of the pin so it was in tolerance but very tight. So I was glad to have the 1.5 mm thrust washers. But after I put it altogether the final tolerance is too large. Max gap is supposed to be .170 inches and I am at .190 inches. But I can’t use much bigger thrust washers or I will run into my pinion shaft. Something is funky here. I have reached out to the Aussie locker team to help.

 

[Steamer]

Max gap is supposed to be .170 inches and I am at .190 inches.

Don't know the range off hand but in that vid I linked to above, the gal says the range is from .006 to .020

 

[mrtodds77]

Don't know the range off hand but in that vid I linked to above, the gal says the range is from .006 to .020

Yes that is the inner spacer gap or pilot shaft clearance. I am ok there. The center gap is where I am too wide.

On the center gap I am supposed to be between 3.68 mm and 4.55 mm. I have values from 4.66 mm to 5.03 mm. Doing the math, I need to go to the 2.0 mm thrust washers which will reduce my gap by 1mm.

However, when I do that I will ruin my inner spacer gap. The Aussie tech support told me to use a belt sander on the spacer faces and take off .5 mm on each.

I am not sure I am happy with that solution. I’d rather have Aussie send me a new spacer but they said the land cruiser was unique and they didn’t have other width spacers.
So now I have to decide. I am thinking about using the Spartan locker because it doesn’t reuse the thrust lockers.

 

[Steamer]

Ah! I understand now. I just read through the Aussie installation instructions. I don’t recall that measurement being mentioned with the Lock-Right.

Anyway. Do you think it’s possible that the carrier bearings are worn and the carrier bearing preload is loose allowing a wider gap? I’m just guessing.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

FYI - If you are out of tolerance, you can get a variety of thrust washers from Torqmasters.

THRUST WASHER PAIR – CUSTOM AND STOCK THICKNESS – Torq-Masters

www.torqmasters.com

 

[mrtodds77]

Ah! I understand now. I just read through the Aussie installation instructions. I don’t recall that measurement being mentioned with the Lock-Right.

Anyway. Do you think it’s possible that the carrier bearings are worn and the carrier bearing preload is loose allowing a wider gap? I’m just guessing.

I don’t think so. Inside the carrier it seems like a solid case and the thrust washers push up against the housing. The bearings look like they are outside the carrier case. They may be worn but I don’t think it would affect the gaps or spacing.

 

[mrtodds77]

FYI - If you are out of tolerance, you can get a variety of thrust washers from Torqmasters.

THRUST WASHER PAIR – CUSTOM AND STOCK THICKNESS – Torq-Masters

www.torqmasters.com

Yes, I saw. For $26 they will ship me a new pair. I’m sure they use good steel but it seems a little high.

 

[Steamer]

I don’t think so. Inside the carrier it seems like a solid case and the thrust washers push up against the housing

You're right. My bad. Wasn't thinking straight. I understand now that the spacers are just too big.
I don't like the belt sander idea either. I think a lathe would be better.

I see now that the "difference" between the spacer to shaft gaps, and the final cam gear gap, is fixed from the factory and can't be changed without machining. Shim selection changes the all the gaps simultaneously. It would seem it the fault is theirs. Either the spacers are too big or either the axle gears or the cam gears are machined too thin. The only other thing that could change the difference between the two measurements would be an irregular shaft diameter. And in your case the shaft would have to be too fat which is certainly unlikely.

 

[mrtodds77]

I ended up getting a belt sander and using some thicker 1.80 mm thrust washers from SOR. So I had to belt sand off very carefully .3 mm off both spacers. So basically I added thrust washers that were .3 mm wider so I had to trim the same width off the spacer. This brought my center line space into tolerance after I put it all back together again. I had to assemble and disassemble the Aussie locker 4 times so I got pretty good at it.

 

[mrtodds77]

Here are some Aussie Locker tricks they don’t tell ya very well. First you install the left and right outer gears on the axle splines. The axle splines need to be out pretty far and not pushed into the casing much or you can’t get the Aussie gears and spacers in there.

 

[mrtodds77]

Then put on the left C-clip and spacer and pull the left axle out tight. Use lots of thick grease on the gears so it sticks the parts together when you assemble things. Otherwise you need four hands.

Insert the left inner gear over the left spacer and squish it in tight to the left outer gear.

 

[mrtodds77]

Ok so now the right inner gear with the spacer inside it gets pushed into place. It’s only wide enough to do them together. Then they tell you to make this handy tool out of a freaking coat hanger. For $350 bucks you’d think they could have made 10000 of these and provided it in the kit. So here is the tricky part. You have to hold the right inner gear up so it is against the left inner gear and you stick in your coat hanger tool to push the right spacer back into the hole in the left inner gear. If you accomplish this everything will hold in place on the left side if you have enough grease. If not you will need to insert a screwdriver at the top to hold everything apart.

Here’s the coat hanger tool. 6” long. 1” bends.

Everything hanging on the left.

 

[mrtodds77]

Ok, so now the next tricky part. The manual just says install the right c-clip. But seriously it’s 3mm wide. You can’t get your fingers in there or needle nose pliers. Also they don’t tell you that you can rotate the right inner gear 90 degrees and it will give you more space as there is a little indent in the gear. So rotate the whole assembly on the left 90 degrees.

 

[pbgbottle]

I used the new Style ones in my install.
I also run the thickest shims I can that just slows me to slide the pin in. I don’t measure anymore. When set recommended spec the locker will usually bang and pop and drive you crazy. Set it up on the tighter side and it works nice no bang as it unloads in corners or parking lots. Is just nicely rachets Smooth and gentle. I could never get the two Measurements to be in spec anyways it was either one or the other.All I know is when I set them up on the tighter side of recommend tolerances. The lockers are a lot more friendly and gentle on the street.

 

[mrtodds77]

To get the C-clip in you have to use some ingenuity. Somehow you have to support the c-clip so it doesn’t fall down into the gear and you have to push it into place. I used the below tools I had on hand and after a few tries I got the c-clip in place.

Rotate the right wheel 90 degrees after you get the c-clip in so it doesn’t fall out on you while you move the right gear and spacer back over it. I had to support the right gear again at the bottom while I pushed everything over and had to use my hanger tool to push the spacer back over to the right. You have to remember to pull the right axle out to seat the clip and give yourself enough room to put in the center pin.