Fj40 Cold Starts (1 Viewer)

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A volume of fuel-to-air weighs 557:1. Once the surface is wetted, there is not much opportunity for the individual cylinders to scavenge fuel off of the intake manifold, while the engine is cranking. At good rpm, the pump plunger (accelerator pump) delivers raw fuel to a stream of fast moving air. But, when the engine is slow, fuel droplets have a hard time changing directions during the 1,5,3,6,2,4 intake/firing sequence. The goal is to rely on the emulsified fuel/air from the slow and main circuits, and leave the accelerator pump (stream of un-emulsified fuel) for changing lanes in traffic.

BTW, I assume that the starter-motor-rpm will deliver the richest hit of gasoline when the throttle plate is about at idle, as that is when a hot engine experiences flooding. The cold start is kind of a lean one.

A 32/26 has a poor idle setting for the Land Cruiser 6. It may also affect spark timing, because the throttle plate is usually more than 1.5 turns-in on the idle speed screw, and is sending vacuum thru the port. An electric fuel pump can fill up the bowl before you hit the start on the switch, if it has sat for a few days. The old Land Cruiser fuel pumps had a hand-prime feature and could get you the same thing.
 
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There is full adjustment on the auto choke version of a 32/36. You can adjust the choke opening and timing, and the fast idle speed. You might want to make sure that the choke breaker has no vacuum leak at the diaphragm, replacements are available.

Once the choke breaker diaphragm on a 40-year old Aisan gives out, you can't easily replace the part, and you loose the function. Both my Aisan choke breakers are minor vacuum leaks, and have less of the function than they should.
 
32/36 auto/mech
I believe it is auto (electric)...I have attached pictures

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Ok all
My cold starting issues were caused by a failing starter over time...the starter finally gave out and I replaced it with a gear reduction one and the engine started right up...check out the old starter when it failed...looks like cone failed a long time ago as I found a piece that had been clanking around the flywheel compartment....

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My 78 would start in -45 weather by using the procedure in the manual of pulling the choke knob pumping twice with either the stock carb or the Rochester carb. But would die when letting off the clutch because the 90 weight gear oil was to thick. So I would put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear. Ease out on the clutch and feather the throttle to keep it from stalling and once it would idle against the thick gear oil I would set the brake and let it warm up.
 

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