FJ40 Braking Problem (1 Viewer)

[Gromit]

Something went terribly "hinky" with the Cruiser's brakes the other night while driving in town. Pulling away from a stop I heard something clank, like a rock hitting up against the undercarriage. At first I thought that's all it was. I'm sure those knobbie tires threw up a piece of road debris. Anyhow, as I came up to the next stop sign and stepped on the brake pedal the FJ made some loud reciprocal banging noises with the pedal pulsing and the chassis jerking!

Has anything like this happened to others here?

Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[Poser]

Remove the wheels, and look at your brakes.

 

[Gromit]

Remove the wheels, and look at your brakes.

Thanks Poser. My buddy who sold me the FJ just said it could have been a rear brake drum cracking. He had a similar issue with his 1954 Chevy Stepside.

 

[chuglife]

sounds like maybe the shoe retaining clip wasn't on properly and let the shoe fall into the wrong position... that would make a loud grinding sound. just another idea

 

[Poser]

If the lining from one of the shoes has let loose, debonded) you would feel this pulsing in the brakes too, and it would make a lot of noise for a while...


I would jack up the truck and spin the wheels and see which one makes some odd noises just rolling at low speed, and start there.


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[Gromit]

Jacked up the rear end last night and spun the wheels. Both sounded normal, so off they came for closer look at the brakes. According to the Haynes manual, there should have been brake drum retaining screws. There weren't any to be found on either drum, just two holes in between the mouning studs.
(Will this be an issue when the wheels are bolted in place?)
The right drum wouldn't budge from the studs, so the wheel went back on and I moved over to the left. When the wheel was removed, the drum slid right off the studs. What I found underneath was the remains of lower shoe liner, resting in the bottom of the drum. What was left of the upper liner was resting, but not attached to it's base.

My local auto parts retailer quoted me $29.99 for both rear shoe sets. I'll be attempting the installation this evening with my basic mechanical skills.

I sure hope this is the fix, becuase I'd hate to address the parking brake!

 

[spotcruiser]

According to the Haynes manual, there should have been brake drum retaining screws. There weren't any to be found on either drum, just two holes in between the mouning studs. (Will this be an issue when the wheels are bolted in place?)

No issue. The drum retaining screws are only there for assembly purposes at the factory. Most people discard them. They usually cause interference problems with aftermarket wheels.

 

[subzali]

Whack on your right drum for a while until it comes off, and check it too just in case. Oh and forget about the rubber mallet, just get an old fashioned steel head and some penetrating oil. You might need to back off your brake shoes too.

Here's a quote I got from somebody when I couldn't get my drums off:
"If the drum isn't even loose on the flange, then use a bigger hammer. 4 lb should do it. Don't worry about placing wood on there, just beat the hell out of it. It took me 20 minutes on each side, along with some PB Blaster to get mine loose.

Try to adj. the cylinders in but chances are they will not move. Try a few times with different tools. Then get pissed off and get the biggest hammer you own and beat the crap out of it. " Good luck.

 

[Gromit]

Thanks Subzali, Spotcruiser, Poser and the rest of the gang for your suggestions and insight. Still being a rookie FJ owner, this forum beats any other web group or repair manual I've yet seen. GOOD TIMES

The only hammers I've got in the garage are a 1lb plastic dead blow mallet from Harbor Freight and your run of the mill Craftsman hammer. Couldn't tell you the weight, becuase I don't make my living swinging one. If neither of those do the trick, I've got a 10lb wood splitting maul that should Git'er Done!

Not quite sure what the PB Blaster is that Subzali was mentioning... Pabst Blue Ribbon? That would go quite nicely while swinging away with the maul. I'll make sure the women and children stay in the house.

I'll check back in tomorrow with the end results.


Good Times

 

[TonkaC]

PB Blaster is this http://www.clean4less.com/Product/Result.asp?Sku/clean-eqPB 1007 I hadn't heard about it until I move to the NE. When out west I don't ever remember. The carpentry hammer might do the trick, might try and pick up a 3 or 5lb. hammer and give it a wack. You can also use a pry bar inbetween the backing plate and the drum if you can get a grip. Most of the time you can't until you get it a little off, but might try it.

To help you next time, thread the two holes on the mounting surface so you can thread bolts in there and help push it off. I know it doesn't help you now, but next time.

 

[Gromit]

After two evenings of wrenching between getting home from work and dinner time, the rear brake shoe installation is only 1/2 done. The first hurdle was dealing with the shoes and springs. I think I'm a pro at this point.
That stuck drum that I thought was going to be a pain was off in one minute, thanks to penetrating oil and a couple seconds with a propane torch. It slid right off the wheel studs.

What's hanging me up now is the the cylinder adjusters on the right side. With the new shoes on, the drum won't go back on. I've already squirted penetrating oil on the threads of the adjuster, gave it a few minutes, then banged on it with a flat-head screwdriver and hammer. Question is, how hard can a hit the toothed wheel on the adjuster before I start doing more harm than good?

 

[peterb]

For sticky adjusters I use pliers because when I use the screwdriver and hammer I ruin the toothed wheel. Anyone else?

 

[rabid]

Pull the adjuster part, stick it (the large part) in a vice, turn out the screw all the way and never seize it.

You need to be able to turn this easilly.

 

[Gromit]

Pliers? Not a chance. Those cylinder adjusters wouldn't budge a single click, even with a pair of Channel Locks. Unfortunately the only work space I've got is my driveway (no work bench, no air tools and no vise)
The toothed wheel on one side is all buggered up, so I'm not feeling too bad using the screwdriver/hammer method.
I'm hoping with the penetrating oil sitting on those threads over night that they'll be more cooperative when I get home tonight.

A buddy suggested I put a propane torch to the stuck adjuster
Guess he's never seen a 27 year old, Japanese brake systems.

 

[Franky40]

Don't use the torch, It sounds like yours are about like what I got on my 1972, I finally ended up pulling all eight of them and rebuilding them. You can buy a honing kit at harbour frieght for a couple of bucks and i think I got my kits from S$R for about $8:00 each. My brakes still sucked even 3 years after the rebuild, if you plan on keeping your cruiser look into disks. Major improvement!



Good luck!
Alan