FJ40 Brake Bleeding troubles

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Come on dude…. of course I know how to work the bleeders ha :)
I think @Pin_Head 's main point was, "When doing the two person method have the pedal pusher pump and hold pressure on the pedal before you crack the bleeder." which is much more effective than, "using a medium length level to hold the pedal down while I bled."
 
I think @Pin_Head 's main point was, "When doing the two person method have the pedal pusher pump and hold pressure on the pedal before you crack the bleeder." which is much more effective than, "using a medium length level to hold the pedal down while I bled."
Well yeah…. if you have someone to pump…. pump it right. I’ve bled dozens of cars over the years with that method and never had issue. The FJ40 is a whole other thing. Cheers
 
I will add to this long string and what finally worked for me. Changed the front calipers, pads, rear cylinders and shoes, as well as all rubber brake lines. These were all ancient and crusty on my truck. Could not get a decent pedal -- squishy, pumps, sinks, fade, etc. So here is what got it done for me after (a) a power bleed with a Motive push pump bleeder 2x, and then (b) a two person old fashion pump and bleed (both with no success):

1. clamped the rear soft center hose -- had very firm pedal wtih no sinking, so the front was good.
2. filled the Motive pump bottle as full I could go without swamping the pressure gauge. Pumped it up to 15 lbs (above the 8-10 lbs on my first run).
3. cracked the Left Rear (driver side) bleeder, tapped on the lines and the wheel cylinders mulitple times; pumped up the pressure to 15 again. Small bubbles coming out.
4. With the Motive in place, the bleeder attached to a hose into a catch can, pumped the brake pedal vigorously for 15 short pumps - 2x. Larger bubbles came out.
5. Ran a good quart of brake fluid through.

Done. Good pedal, no fade and stops nice and even. I am going to replace my drums (rear) as i know they are worn. Hopefully cut the brake pedel throw distance a bit. But the brakes work great.

This was a very frustrating experience and harder to bleed the air than any other car I have done. I think the relatively small reservoir for the rear wheel cylinders, that there are 4 wheels cylinders, and a large upward brake line run over the top of the pumpkin, results in not enough flow to push out the air. Simply, the short travel of the master cylinder plunger is not pushing enough brake fluid to expel the air in the line. By putting a constant flow pressure and fluid movement with the Motive, combines with the repeated fast short pushes with pedal, it dislodged the air and that was it. The small flow of the rear reservoir also explains the sensitivity of the rear shoes settings, and why they have to be so tight. There is not much brake fluid push to expand all 4 rear wheel cylinders very far.

Many thanks to all the prior contributors here. I studied this string four times over. I would have given up and towed her in for help had it not been for all of the great hands on experiences in this thread.
 

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