FJ40 body part powder coating (1 Viewer)

[Daedna]

Hello, I am noob on this forum...my name is Dave I am restoring an '80 FJ40 all original rust bucket.

I had an idea and just noticed something that may ruin my plans. I wanted to bead blast and powder coat my ambulance doors. But...I have noticed on a different set of ambulance doors that there is some silicon goo that was used to seal the lower panel of the door where the two halves come together.

Has anybody tried to powder coat their ambulance doors? What about the other body parts, Is there anything I should avoid or things that are known to work well?

I have experience powder coating and I know there are some powder coats that cure in the mid 300 degrees while others require 400+....maybe that goo could withstand 350deg?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Coolerman]

Remove as much of the goo as you can, then pre-bake the part at 500 degrees (or at the highest temp your oven will go) for 20 minutes or so. That will burn off any contaminants and will allow that goo to "out-gas" if it's going to. Allow the part to cool, clean it one more time, then do your normal powder coat. You can come back later and use seam seal on any seams that need it.

 

[roma042987]

not an issue I powder coated my whole truck. The powder even stuck to the seam sealer on the windshield frame.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I powder coated my whole truck.

Interesting. I have a powder coat color that I like a lot. I was always thinking of doing a bunch of parts and then having some paint matched for the big parts.

How much to do the tub?

 

[roma042987]

Interesting. I have a powder coat color that I like a lot. I was always thinking of doing a bunch of parts and then having some paint matched for the big parts.

How much to do the tub?

I think the tub was 700 and rest of the stuff was about 700. I brought everything to them blasted.

 

[Daedna]

Remove as much of the goo as you can, then pre-bake the part at 500 degrees (or at the highest temp your oven will go) for 20 minutes or so. That will burn off any contaminants and will allow that goo to "out-gas" if it's going to. Allow the part to cool, clean it one more time, then do your normal powder coat. You can come back later and use seam seal on any seams that need it.

,
Good idea, I forgot that we used to do that with Zinc plated parts. Thanks!

 

[Coolerman]

Yes, anything that has a possibility of producing gas when heated should be pre-heated. I pre-heat all aluminum parts, zinc, zinc plated, pot metal and anything that has been exposed to hydrocarbons. That out gassing can ruin a part. Then you get the joy of having to strip off powder coating...

 

[Jackson Hanes]

I see this is an older thread, but how did you guys cure it? Don't you have to put it in a glorified over to cure it?

 

[Firemedic831]

I am guessing there can be no body filler on the parts ?

 

[DangerNoodle]

I am guessing there can be no body filler on the parts ?

Not really. It gets pretty dang hot when baking the powder coat.