FJ40 Axles vs Dana 44, stronger?

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I read so many post about breaking Birfields and other issues with axles and carnage. Are the Dana 44's stronger or more reliable stock compared to stock FJ40 axles? I have a 1978 with stock axles, what should I expect?
 

FineWynsFJ40

Eff-Jay-Farty
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The 40 series axles are equivalent of a Dana 60, the 3/4 ton axle. If you are worried about breaking them, upgrade the Birfield and you can sleep easy at night.

Brian
 
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I am running 33 x 12.5 mud tires. I have a 383 stroker sbc in it. I have a clicking in hte passenger side front end when I engage my front hubs. Never changed a Birfield before, that is why I am asking. Thanks!
 
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You'd rather change the whole axle assemblys than a birf?? I've never changed one either but it isnt really that hard. use the search and check the tech links and you'll figure it out. After practice you can change one in no-time. Besides, 44s are weaker than a 40 axle, especially when longfields are installed.
Tim
 
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The 40 series axles are equivalent of a Dana 60, the 3/4 ton axle. If you are worried about breaking them, upgrade the Birfield and you can sleep easy at night.

Brian

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.


Get back on your meds, bud.


The 40 axles are stronger than that of a stock D44, but not in the same ballpark as a D60.
 
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I am running 33 x 12.5 mud tires. I have a 383 stroker sbc in it. I have a clicking in hte passenger side front end when I engage my front hubs. Never changed a Birfield before, that is why I am asking. Thanks!

Buy some 30 spline longs. You will be better off than with a D44 front axle.

Longfield Super Axles

Changing a birf is no big deal if you have the tools.
 
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Kansastitty
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.


Get back on your meds, bud.


The 40 axles are stronger than that of a stock D44, but not in the same ballpark as a D60.


Actually......according to the ARB catalog....the stock LC axle is the same diameter as some of the D60 axles. 1.31", IIRC. Others are 1.50", but like I said....some;p


http://www.arbusa.com/alac/215110.pdf

Ed
 
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Strength difference between the 2 is a tossup, yota housing suck, d44 balljoints suck, early small pattern yota knuckles not strong which you have since it is a '78. Landcruiser R&P I would say are stronger granted it is fine spline which you should have. Birfs are a better design than U-joints. D44 has bigger brakes and will most likely be wider depending on what it came off of.

Once parts are upgraded strength difference is a wash, but, yota axles are cheeper to make strong. A built D44 will net near the same expense as a built D60 minus the initial capital cost difference. I would never consider a D44 because of that fact.

With 33s I would not worry your pretty head, carry a spare birf and git it. I roll on 40s with 30spline longs, so far so good :touch wood:
 
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Thanks.

Looks like I am going to have t o learn to change my birfield anyway as it is clicking. Sounds like I can hammer away with a set of Longfields and run 35's without much worry. We don't have much rock climbing here in Michigan anyway, mostly woods, mud, sand, etc. Thanks!
 

LC_Hamma

The Anti-Leafer
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Looks like I am going to have t o learn to change my birfield anyway as it is clicking. Sounds like I can hammer away with a set of Longfields and run 35's without much worry. We don't have much rock climbing here in Michigan anyway, mostly woods, mud, sand, etc. Thanks!

W/ the 35's you're right at the point where the stock knuckle stud strength *may pose a problem. If you keep it off the rocks, install the Longs, you outta be safe. Pack in a few extra studs & a spare knuckle....
 
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W/ the 35's you're right at the point where the stock knuckle stud strength *may pose a problem. If you keep it off the rocks, install the Longs, you outta be safe. Pack in a few extra studs & a spare knuckle....

The most important thing is to keep them tight, if you torque the steering arms every morning before you wheel you should be golden. This is what I have done for years and have not had any problems :touch wood: I do have the bigger pattern knuckles with bigger studs. With low steer arms you should have less issues keeping them tight and/or sheering studs.
 
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JJS

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For the later 12mm studs 80ft-lbs

ARPs take 120ft-lbs


(If I stop, s*** will start falling off!)

Does anyone know the actual torque spec for small pattern ('76-78 front end) studs? Are ARP replacements available for these?
 
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What knuckle?

W/ the 35's you're right at the point where the stock knuckle stud strength *may pose a problem. If you keep it off the rocks, install the Longs, you outta be safe. Pack in a few extra studs & a spare knuckle....

Do you have a pciture of the knuckle and studs you are talking about? Sorry for the dumb question but I want to be sure we are talking about the same thing. Thanks!
 

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