FJ40 4 Speed no-go (1 Viewer)

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musthave

Doc says I'm 1 in 120K. Lucky?
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Working on getting my sons FJ40 on the road. Purchased a four-speed transmission, the correct bellhousing, and bought the clutch kit. New slave cylinder. New throwout bearing.

Mounted the transmission to the motor and installed it.

When sitting the transmission will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th and reverse, no problem.

Start it in neutral. With the clutch in, it will not shift into first, second, third or fourth. If I try to go into reverse it grinds.

I put it up on jackstands. Started it in neutral. The rear wheels spin very slowly, and can be stopped by hand. With the clutch depressed I can shift it into first easily, same for second third and fourth. If I try to go into reverse it grinds.

With the clutch out and engine running I can still shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th without using the clutch.

So, I'm not sure what I've done wrong. Pressure plate backwards? Is there a way to tell?

What things can I try to diagnose and validate further?

Bewildered.

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How to tell if pressure plate was truly put in backwards?
 
I believe this is a picture that I took just before installing it, I think it's correct. I wish I knew how I could tell before dropping the transmission.

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In the 2nd video, is that the full travel of your throw out bearing? Looks like it is not compressing the fingers on the pressure plate. May need to adjust the slave rod.
 
In the 2nd video, is that the full travel of your throw out bearing? Looks like it is not compressing the fingers on the pressure plate. May need to adjust the slave rod.
Yes, that is the full travel of the throwout bearing. Should it be compressing the fingers on the pressure plate? I'm not very familiar with manual transmissions.
 
Agree with Byron. Easy peasy adjustment, you'll be done in no time.
 
I adjusted the outer cone style nut until about 1/8" from the end of the rod. Now with clutch fully pressed, I get this. Maybe I'm good? Anxious to try it in the morning.

 
I'm not sure what changed, but a different problem.

Still up on jack stands. No harness yet. Power to the solenoid on the carburetor and I hear it click. Power to igniter. Start it with a bit of throttle, fine, but will no longer idle, just cuts off if you don't keep giving it a bit of gas. Yesterday it idled great. Nothing has changed. Any idea on this new issue?
 
It's similar as to what I experienced when I had no solenoid. As long as there's gas it runs.

Suggestions?
 
Engine is grounded in 3 locations, all are good. No harness is in use yet, just one cable to the starter, one to the idle solenoid, and one to the igniter. I hear the solenoid click, but I don't know if that is a good way to tell that it is good or not.
 
I hear the solenoid click, but I don't know if that is a good way to tell that it is good or not.
Pull the solenoid off the carb. 2 phillips screws. Ground the solenoid and give the hot wire 12v. The rod sticking out of the solenoid should move in. If you want to permanently disable the solenoid just cut off the rod.
 
Pull the solenoid off the carb. 2 phillips screws. Ground the solenoid and give the hot wire 12v. The rod sticking out of the solenoid should move in. If you want to permanently disable the solenoid just cut off the rod.
Oddly, I was able to get it started. We were able to get it inaugural drive, first in 35 years.

Parked it for a few minutes, when I went to restart it it would not idle. Makes me feel like that solenoid is not working all the time.

If I disable the solenoid will it run correctly without it?
 
Inaugural drive. Son is happy. Just need to figure out the lack of consistent idle.

 
If I disable the solenoid will it run correctly without it?
Yes. The solenoids only job is to cut off the fuel flow through the carb when you turn the key off.
To prevent run-on or dieseling.
 
Yes. The solenoids only job is to cut off the fuel flow through the carb when you turn the key off.
To prevent run-on or dieseling.
Perfect, I'll do that until I order a new one. No harm I suppose.
 

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