fj40 32/36 weber (1 Viewer)

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May 25, 2003
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i have a 32/36 weber on a 2f that i have been having trouble with for some time, now. i have limited all of the symptoms and problems down to the carburetor:

it all started with the engine running rough until it warmed up, and, even then, it would still hesitate and misfire through the carb. i found that the carburetor was tuned far too lean from the factory. i installed larger idle jets and worked with the choke. this half way fixed the problem. on a hunch, i forced the carb to drop more fuel by closing the choke off and making the engine run extremely ritch. this cured the problem of it firing through the carb, but, as you may or may not know, the 32/36 is a progressive. while it solved the problem on the first barel, it didn't on the second. the choke was open when the second was engaged casuing the exact same thing to happen that the first barrel was experiencing. i soon corrected the problem with the first barrel by placing a larger main jet in the fuel stream. this caused all hesitation and misfiring to cease with that barrel only. the second was still having trouble, even though i placed a larger jet in it, too. a couple of weeks later, while looking into the carb durning function, i noticed that there is only one accelerator pump for both barrels that squirts fuel into each at the same time. the second barrel holds this fuel until it opens, at which point, it hesitates and fires through the carb. i seemed to have corrected this by removing the ability for it to deliver fuel to this barrel. it still hesitates, but it does not backfire anymore. i know that it is not a problem with the accelerator pump itself. it is delivering fuel to the carb.

last night, i had the choke stick closed on me. this may have shead some more light on the problem. while the choke was closed, the cruiser would accelerate without ANY problem. it ran great, until it was choked out... what i am now thinking is that this carb is too small and incorrect for this engine. it is not delivering the correct ammount of fuel that it needs to run properly. is there anyone out there that has had a similar problem with this carb? any advise is appreciated.
 
Your assumtion of the situation is correct.
This is a smaller cfm carb than stock from what I have observed, read and been told. This is going to run lean on your engine. I would get a good stock rebuilt from one of the carb gods out here, or get a 38/38 weber. I have had decent luck with them on the ten or so F and 2F trucks I have installed them on...

-Steve
 
Poser has hit on something! The 32/36 is TOO small for the cruiser. 38/38 should make a world of difference... however there are people running the 32/36 without problems. Are you running a fuel pressure regulator? If not you weber may not be happy... I think 3.5psi is the max recommended and mine (38/38) is happier at 2.5psi... had all kinds of running problems until the pressure was brought in line.

jm
 
I guess I'll have to differ with the above...awhile back this was what I cyphered using standard carb/cfm sizing.

Using a CFM calculator, I came up with the figure that our little beauties would need up to ~304 CFM (max) to get them to spin at 4,000 rpm. And dare I say ~380 CFM at 5,000 rpm. If this was a NASCAR cruiser, heaven forbid, that could spin all day at 5,000 rpm then by all means yes to the 38/38 or 390 CFM weber. Since I doubt that this would be the case and quite possibly 98% of your engine spinning should be at or well below the 4,000 rpm range, the 32/36 or 300 CFM would be more of an "ideal" fit. However, in our tractor motored Cruisers you probably won't notice the diff.

What is true and I have notice of motors that are less "tractor like" is that if you are over carburatted, you will lose low end torque and throttle response.

My .02 then and now on the subject.
 
I guess I'll have to differ with the above...awhile back this was what I cyphered using standard carb/cfm sizing.

Quote:
Using a CFM calculator, I came up with the figure that our little beauties would need up to ~304 CFM (max) to get them to spin at 4,000 rpm. And dare I say ~380 CFM at 5,000 rpm. If this was a NASCAR cruiser, heaven forbid, that could spin all day at 5,000 rpm then by all means yes to the 38/38 or 390 CFM weber. Since I doubt that this would be the case and quite possibly 98% of your engine spinning should be at or well below the 4,000 rpm range, the 32/36 or 300 CFM would be more of an "ideal" fit. However, in our tractor motored Cruisers you probably won't notice the diff.

What is true and I have notice of motors that are less "tractor like" is that if you are over carburatted, you will lose low end torque and throttle response.



My .02 then and now on the subject.


Wow Todd, my theory exactly; just never backed it up like that.

32/36 should work well but it does not. Never has. Not sure if it is the progressive nature of the second or what. I quit fooling with them. The 38 works fine overall but it is more of a PITA than a result. It will run better overall and will give you the feeling that you have more power but it will take away the torque.

Best bet for a stock motor is the stock carb. Not to say you cant mess with the stock carbs a bit. 75/76 are the best.

I run Hollies on all my trucks but I would never install a holley on a customers truck. Too much time and money getting ti to run right. Once it does it cannot be beat! Holley is a 350 CFM turned down to around 320ish CFM.
 
I have 70 fj40, Weber 32/36, rebuilt f1, DUI ignition. I have rebuilt carb. Engine backfires when increasing throttle, low power. Idles and runs great. I have adjusted carb per Weber instruction. I’m at 4500 mil, seems to be rich. Any suggestions?
 
Donopilot

I have the same setup. Weber 32/36, DUI and rebuilt F motor. I would suggest leaning it up a bit more than what Weber instructions say. I have found that Weber’s take very very small adjustments best. I have mine tuned pretty well but it took a while to figure it out. Very small adjustments to the lean side is what finally worked for me.
 
I have 70 fj40, Weber 32/36, rebuilt f1, DUI ignition. I have rebuilt carb. Engine backfires when increasing throttle, low power. Idles and runs great. I have adjusted carb per Weber instruction. I’m at 4500 mil, seems to be rich. Any suggestions?
These Webers surely need the fuel regulator too.
I was always running rich until i put it in, set to 3.5 lbs.
i have a74 1.5F and went from the 32/36 to the 38/38. HEI and headers with elect choke.
I wish PO has saved all that carb and air cleaner set up, but alas it is what it is S O C K S😉
These Webers are responsive, but that puts the onus on me to balance Timing, vacuum, choke operation, and fuel delivery.
I backfire when my timing is off (retarded?), or Ping on the other side(advanced?)...
Im at 4,200' currently and running jets sizes of 50 for idle; 135 on mains; 190 air correctors. This is on my 38/38 though.
I've got some tuning to do as i run crappy when cold.

Not sure if you already covered all this.
Reg the fuel
Confirm jets and throttle linkage is working.
Verify timing

Lean best idle again
IIRC

IMG_1633.jpeg
 
These Webers surely need the fuel regulator too.
I was always running rich until i put it in, set to 3.5 lbs.
i have a74 1.5F and went from the 32/36 to the 38/38. HEI and headers with elect choke.
I wish PO has saved all that carb and air cleaner set up, but alas it is what it is S O C K S😉
These Webers are responsive, but that puts the onus on me to balance Timing, vacuum, choke operation, and fuel delivery.
I backfire when my timing is off (retarded?), or Ping on the other side(advanced?)...
Im at 4,200' currently and running jets sizes of 50 for idle; 135 on mains; 190 air correctors. This is on my 38/38 though.
I've got some tuning to do as i run crappy when cold.

Not sure if you already covered all this.
Reg the fuel
Confirm jets and throttle linkage is working.
Verify timing

Lean best idle again
IIRC

View attachment 3497457
Thanks for your input!
 
Donopilot

I have the same setup. Weber 32/36, DUI and rebuilt F motor. I would suggest leaning it up a bit more than what Weber instructions say. I have found that Weber’s take very very small adjustments best. I have mine tuned pretty well but it took a while to figure it out. Very small adjustments to the lean side is what finally worked for me.
Thanks, I have been leaning and working,problem now is secondary back fire and low power?
 

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