FJ40 1970 Wiper wiring> (1 Viewer)

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I have a wiring question. I am replacing a wiper motor in a 1970 FJ40. The wiring colors between the wiper motor and the vehicle wiring do not match. See attached. Should I make them match? Can I hurt the wiper motor if it is wrong? What wires on the motor get power to make it run fast, slow and return to the resting position?.

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Great link, thanks!

It is really bizarre that toyota ignored their own schematics.

I'm discovering this as well.

Bad enough when PO puts in yards of extra wiring to "fix" things, but I'm shocked by how little Toyota wiring resembles their published schematics. I used to write technical instructions and I'm astonished at how little QA/QC was involved with nearly all Toyota published material.
 
It may have to do with the production changes late 1970.
 
Wiring is a problem. It is 53 years old. Most everything is corroded. The insulation is hard. The copper conductor is tarnished. Mine also had/had lots of extra wired sloppily added by others over the years.

Yesterday I spent some time diagnosing a systematic no power fault. Turns out it was a fuse that was not making contact with the fuse block due to corrosion.

When I wire a vehicle I use solder and shrink tube. That includes spade and bullet connectors. De-Oxit spray is your friend for anything that plugs into something.

I have found lots of flaky crimp connectors. I wish they made silver or gold plated connectors with no plastic. I would trust them more if I could coat all the connecting parts with electrical grade silicone sealant, crimp, then shrink tube. For all that work I might as well solder them and shrink tube.
 
Wiper switch on my son’s DD 1972 is grounded through the emissions computer. Took me a while to figure that out. I bypassed it and hard wired direct to ground. Computer can be faulty at times.
 
It may have to do with the production changes late 1970.
Or the fact that Mr. T's publications QA/QC sucked serious donkey balls.

And IME, it's the latter.

I wonder if the Toyota Production System and its continuous improvement actually damages the integrity of documentation/publications?

It's not a huge leap to think it might be an issue and create documentation inaccuracies.
 
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Wiring is a problem. It is 53 years old. Most everything is corroded. The insulation is hard. The copper conductor is tarnished. Mine also had/had lots of extra wired sloppily added by others over the years.

Yesterday I spent some time diagnosing a systematic no power fault. Turns out it was a fuse that was not making contact with the fuse block due to corrosion.

When I wire a vehicle I use solder and shrink tube. That includes spade and bullet connectors. De-Oxit spray is your friend for anything that plugs into something.

I have found lots of flaky crimp connectors. I wish they made silver or gold plated connectors with no plastic. I would trust them more if I could coat all the connecting parts with electrical grade silicone sealant, crimp, then shrink tube. For all that work I might as well solder them and shrink tube.
Considering they're 50 years old they've not done too badly.
I've found that trying to make things completely water tight almost always leads to water getting trapped inside it. At least the old connectors can dry out.
I've opted for a few modern crimped sealed connectors underneath, and a few soldered links - a tub of flux makes quick work of the corroded wires 👍
 
This is not a water issue. The emission computer connectors have bad solder connections on the board, strange they routed the wiper ground thru there.
 
The wiper ground on a 1972 is NOT routed through the emissions computer. The ground buss is attached at ONE single point to the body, the regulator E terminal. The buss has two mutli-wire crimp splices where all the separat ground wires are tied together. The is the classic Star Ground. See attached pic of the 1972 Ground Buss.
Ground_Circuit.jpg
 
Any flux used on electrical work must me rosin. A tub of plumbers acid flux will work great in the moment but it will corrode the wires and connectors quickly. When I run into tarnished wire and I really must use it, I strip it way back, splay the strands, and use maroon scochbrite pad to polish the corrosion off.
 

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