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LOL, it had been resting peacefully for more than seven years before you just stirred the pot again. It was pine-in' for the fjords...
lol I love seeing replies like this. Absolutely nothing to add to the conversation and pretty uninformed for such an elitist attitude. I have run everything from an 85 yota with a blower and 35 spline 9" both ends with 39.5 swampers and a 3" body lift to a vette powered tpi CJ with coilover and 37s and 2" body lift. Body lifts on all of them to get the extra I needed. Never an issue. I've done everything from Mudbogging locally to the Rubicon and the myths about them shearing off are just that. Myths.
Yes, resurrecting a dead thread to try and shed some light to this.
Body lifts are just there to get a little more clearance to run the tires you need without having to resort to glass fenders or risk real damage when your suspension cycles. When done right, there is no issue (at all). Please just give it a rest.
Bandi makes 1/2 inch and 1" body lifts for the Fj. He also does installs. He is located in brick nj.Just to throw a different perspective on the proverbial fire...
I actually lowered my body on the frame. It all started when I installed steel tube fenders welded to my sliders and frame a few years back. The tolerance between the fixed tube steel and the inherent roll of the body on the rubber mounts was misjudged and I wound up rolling the fenders into the tube steel. To counteract the underestimated body roll, I took my body mount bolts out, cut the steel spacer sleeves down by .75" and then put the sleeves back inside the rubber mounts. This allowed be to tighten the bolts down an extra .75" to decrease the amount of roll which in turn kept the fenders from contacting the steel tubes.
I run KM2's in 315/75/16 and depending on how good my alignment guy did, I rarely rub. But sometimes I do, especially at full steering lock and leaning into my turn (weight shifted onto that wheel).