FJ-62 T-case actuator solenoids (1 Viewer)

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Vacuum Solenoid Valves

Hello All, I have been reading through the post(s) on the vsv for the FJ62, I am running a HJ61 24v 12HT over here in the North West of Oz (no Toto jokes!) and have been suffering the same problem with the H4 button not releasing and the switching of the hoses manually does the trick for now. I have got a hold of the magnetic valve replacement shown in the FAQ I assumed the FJ is 24v (am I wrong). The part I have is 12v

It doesn't mention much about whether or not the replacement is 12v going into a 24v system. I have had no luck over here with any of the part numbers they are all dead in the water. the one I did score looks just like the one in the pic.I know looks can be deceiving but was wondering if anyone could help with whether or not running it through a reducer is the way to go.

If anyone knows of a means of scoring proper legit ones let me know

Cheers

BC
 
Cheap Fix From 1990-1995 4Runner 4x4

I vaguely recalled that my 1990 4Runner had similar looking VSV’s that controlled the Automatic Differential Disconnect (ADD). A trip to the local U-Pullit confirmed this. At least the electrical connectors were identical. The only difference of the 4Runner VSV’s is the vacuum port is 90 degrees different than the Landcruiser. Purchased the set for $5 and swapped them into the Landcruiser bracket. Low and behold they worked perfectly!! All 1990-1995 4Runners that are 4x4 should have this set of VSV's.
4rnrstk0041.jpg
IMG_0043.JPG
IMG_0046.JPG
 
awsome- God I love mud! Time to get me some of them there 4runner selonoids! I check and see if i can get them new and let yall know. We aint got many of them Toyota yards round here.
 
My writeup on the VSV i got from a camry is gone in FAQ...
 
Bump

any thing on those part numbers............... might have to start looking for better way to replace mine .being that my truck automaticly engadged into 4wd( while in 2wd and hubs not engadged) today while driveing to work ..lucklly i was a mile from work on surface streets. swapd hoses and hitteh swutch and thankfully it shut off..............then later tonight i got to thinkin about it .and shifted it in low adn back into 2wd just to see if it would shut off .and damn it all to hell still wouldnt disengadge. so looking for what options i can beofre it shuts down completly on me
 
This fix worked great for me. Many thanks for the guy at Kaiser in SF for overhearing me looking for these solenoids on the phone and told me about this thread!
 
WOW

GREETINGS EVERYONE,

This Is Such A Valuable thread,

My Solenoids Have Just Gone On The Blink, So Need New One's. Toyota Quoted Over $900.00 For The Two, And Would Have To Wait 3wks, Cause There Coming From Japan. I Said No Thanks! Rang Mac Valves Today In Queensland, And With The Help Of Mud, Will Just Cost a Bit Over $100.

Thanks To All Who Contributed.

Michael.
 
Nothing wrong with the options above, just too curious to leave well enough alone.

I've thought about these solenoids being more prone to failure than others under the hood, and I think having one or the other powered constantly is a potential cause of failure. I wonder if a setup with one normally open and one normally closed valve wouldn't work better (both are n.c. stock, right?). The advantage would be that the valve to keep 2wd wouldn't have to be powered all the time you are in 2wd, instead it would be normally open, and then for 4wd, both valves would be powered. Both would use the leads from the 4wd on switch option, with both valves unpowered = 2wd, both powered = 4wd (or reverse this if you spend most of your time in 4wd).

Another option I like would be to have a 2-way mechanical valve, operated by a choke style cable, that puts it in 2wd or 4wd, and requires no solenoid to get it or keep it in either position. It would have 2 positions; with the cable in, the 2wd port would be open and the 4wd closed, with cable out, vise versa. About the same amount of human effort as solenoids to switch from one to the other, but maybe more reliable. Could use the throttle cable or put it beside that, and the 4wd light should still work. Maybe use the 4wd switch for something else, like the seat belts on sign?

I plan to explore these, but I wondered if anyone has a better idea or an improvement on mine? Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
Bump
 
hello,
I resume this tread because I have a problem with the actuator (I suppose) but with a little difference.
If I pass from 2wd to 4wd and the car is movin, slow not more than 30Kmh, i have in the inner of the car something like burnig smell....if i do the same but with the car not in movement, no problem.
I have tried agai and I have the same situation.
Any ideas?
thanks!!
 
Not supposed to shift while moving.
 
cruisermatt said:
Not supposed to shift while moving.
Click to expand...
Hello!
there are years that I insert the 4wd in movement without problem, the owner manual say that there no problem until 40Kmh and I know that many other do the same on sandy tracks.
I don't understand why the burn smelling disappear if I engage the 4wd with the car not in movement, the valve should be work in the same way by the vacuum pump.
 
Is there a current source and substitute VSV solenoid substitute for the original $300 Landcruiser part? I have a 1988 FJ62. I haven't been able to put my Cruiser into 4x4 but today I swapped the vacuum hoses on the VSV solenoid on my truck and the truck switched into 4x4. Then to get it back out of 4x4 I switched the hoses again and the light went out. I'm assuming the VSV solenoid is bad. Any thoughts? Thanks
 
Last edited:
Bigstar said:
Is there a current source and substitute VSV solenoid substitute for the original $300 Landcruiser part? I have a 1988 FJ62. I haven't been able to put my Cruiser into 4x4 but today I swapped the vacuum hoses on the VSV solenoid on my truck and the truck switched into 4x4. Then to get it back out of 4x4 I switched the hoses again and the light went out. I'm assuming the VSV solenoid is bad. Any thoughts? Thanks
Click to expand...
It's all here:

Writeup: 1988 FJ62 4WD Solenoid fix for $17.77

If you want to stay original I've got some good used parts I can let go of, from my (until recently) running '89 FJ62 donor vehicle. PM me if interested.
 
mojavemax said:
Cheap Fix From 1990-1995 4Runner 4x4

I vaguely recalled that my 1990 4Runner had similar looking VSV’s that controlled the Automatic Differential Disconnect (ADD). A trip to the local U-Pullit confirmed this. At least the electrical connectors were identical. The only difference of the 4Runner VSV’s is the vacuum port is 90 degrees different than the Landcruiser. Purchased the set for $5 and swapped them into the Landcruiser bracket. Low and behold they worked perfectly!! All 1990-1995 4Runners that are 4x4 should have this set of VSV's.
View attachment 358269View attachment 358272View attachment 358273
Click to expand...
hello i read it with interesse; it look likes a good option; question is 4runner also24v? because mine hj60 has a 24v system robertcruiser
 
red62 said:
Nothing wrong with the options above, just too curious to leave well enough alone.

I've thought about these solenoids being more prone to failure than others under the hood, and I think having one or the other powered constantly is a potential cause of failure. I wonder if a setup with one normally open and one normally closed valve wouldn't work better (both are n.c. stock, right?). The advantage would be that the valve to keep 2wd wouldn't have to be powered all the time you are in 2wd, instead it would be normally open, and then for 4wd, both valves would be powered. Both would use the leads from the 4wd on switch option, with both valves unpowered = 2wd, both powered = 4wd (or reverse this if you spend most of your time in 4wd).

Another option I like would be to have a 2-way mechanical valve, operated by a choke style cable, that puts it in 2wd or 4wd, and requires no solenoid to get it or keep it in either position. It would have 2 positions; with the cable in, the 2wd port would be open and the 4wd closed, with cable out, vise versa. About the same amount of human effort as solenoids to switch from one to the other, but maybe more reliable. Could use the throttle cable or put it beside that, and the 4wd light should still work. Maybe use the 4wd switch for something else, like the seat belts on sign?

I plan to explore these, but I wondered if anyone has a better idea or an improvement on mine? Any thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...
hello red62 i see you had also problems with the vsv's, so do i; my system works but is slow ; has a slow reaction time; also i dont understande the vacuum circuit quite because is one valve is powered it seems to mee the vacuum escapes via outlet filter othe valve at the other vsv that is not powerd ; do you have maybe the complete vacuum line diagram in relation to the vsv's and the diafragma and the vacuumpump; robert
 
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