FJ 62 Steering Question (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

There is a gentleman in my 4x4 club with a pristine FJ62 on 33's. He did about 4 trips with us which require going over the grapevine north of los angeles on the 5 fwy. He wrecked his transmission within 5 months of being in the club.

One way to make sure you're not wrecking your transmission is to make sure your torque converter is always locked up in 4th gear when pulling grades or for that matter, any long drive. If you are always stuck in 3rd or shifting up and down from 3-4 then you are heating up your transmission.

Question 1:
Do you know what it looks like on your tach when the torque converter locks up in 4th? If your answer isn't yes then that needs to change.

Question 2:
What temperature does your transmission peak at during a long drive? If you can't answer that then you cannot say your truck is ok on 33's with stock gears. Anything over 230°F for me is troublesome and different people will have different answers. My transmission normally runs at 190°F when not working hard.

 

[LCnAZ]

I think you have to consider that many members will say something is "fine." Did you require data from them? It's fine until...and @Saucerman, is right on the AT rebuild. $2000 was possibly 1995 pricing. I paid $2600 in 2010.

I agree with @Randy88FJ62 on aggressively attending to thermal management of the A440. I attacked mine with an external cooler in tandem with a custom condenser fan, a heat shield to shield the AT from the close proximity of the exhaust, clean up of the AT filter, and change to synthetic. I cut my AT operating temp (via digital point and shoot thermometer) to about 155 degrees here in AZ. I'm convinced I won't be burning it up now. Food for thought.

There is a ton of useful advice here, but in this case you need to get hold of someone like Georg or one of the other specialty shops. I'll admit some of my experience is nowhere near many others here. But like Detective Callahan said, "A man's just gotta know his limitations"...and I know when not to get so far over my ski tips that I increase my risk unacceptably...and when not to provide the same to others. Sometimes it pays to at least talk to specialist.

 

[LCnAZ]

The server went tango uniform. Dupe omitted.

 

[LCnAZ]

The server went tango uniform. Dupe omitted.

 

[LCnAZ]

The server went tango uniform. Dupe omitted.

 

[LCnAZ]

@Randy88FJ62 ...I need the education/explanation on how to tell the torque converter is locked up in 4th when on grades. Thank you.

 

[Fieldtester96]

There is a gentleman in my 4x4 club with a pristine FJ62 on 33's. He did about 4 trips with us which require going over the grapevine north of los angeles on the 5 fwy. He wrecked his transmission within 5 months of being in the club.

One way to make sure you're not wrecking your transmission is to make sure your torque converter is always locked up in 4th gear when pulling grades or for that matter, any long drive. If you are always stuck in 3rd or shifting up and down from 3-4 then you are heating up your transmission.

Question 1:
Do you know what it looks like on your tach when the torque converter locks up in 4th? If your answer isn't yes then that needs to change.

Question 2:
What temperature does your transmission peak at during a long drive? If you can't answer that then you cannot say your truck is ok on 33's with stock gears. Anything over 230°F for me is troublesome and different people will have different answers. My transmission normally runs at 190°F when not working hard.

I usually get a 300 RPM drop when my converter locks up. As for the temp of the transmission, the times i have measured it during the summer it was around 200. Though i have yet to take the time to read it in the winter. I do however keep tabs on the temp coming off of the transmission hump since i don't have carpet in my vehicle anymore. Also there are very few hills in Virginia i would have to go below 4th gear in,

Thank you for the explanation i will definitely keep a closer eye on my transmission temp, i dont have a problem putting a cooler on it. I just haven't because its never even gotten hot enough to set off the warning lights.

@Randy88FJ62 ...I need the education/explanation on how to tell the torque converter is locked up in 4th when on grades. Thank you.

I can answer this, you know your torque converter is locking up when you shift into 4th gear the RPMs drop around 200 RPM. The best way to test this is to downshift when you are in 4th gear and then up shift and watch what your Tach is doing.

Also the torque converter locks up do to the pressure of the ATF causing the a clutch? in the torque converter to lock. this will make sure you dont loose any power from your engine too you wheels through the Torque converter.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

When you accelerate and get on the freeway and finally get up to speed you will let off the accelerator a little bit. When you let off your truck shifts into 4th gear (overdrive). The tachometer will drop about 300 RPM's. Watch for the RPM drop. This is your visual cue that your A440F has LOCKED the TORQUE CONVERTER.

When the torque converter is locked your transmission doesn't output tons of heat.

Ways to manage heat in an A440F transmission:

1. Use synthetic transmission fluid (lowers temps a bit)

2. Install a trans cooler (I have a F250 cooler in mine)

3. Install a temp gauge to watch it

4. Carry an IR temp gauge to check it when at gas stations.

5. Install an Extreme Valve Body that can lock up in 3rd gear ($$$$).

6. Regear diffs so the engine doesnt have to work hard.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

When you accelerate and get on the freeway and finally get up to speed you will let off the accelerator a little bit. When you let off your truck shifts into 4th gear (overdrive). The tachometer will drop about 300 RPM's. Watch for the RPM drop. This is your visual cue that your A440F has LOCKED the TORQUE CONVERTER.

When the torque converter is locked your transmission doesn't output tons of heat.

Ways to manage heat in an A440F transmission:

1. Use synthetic transmission fluid (lowers temps a bit)

2. Install a trans cooler (I have a F250 cooler in mine)

3. Install a temp gauge to watch it

4. Carry an IR temp gauge to check it when at gas stations.

5. Install an Extreme Valve Body that can lock up in 3rd gear ($$$$).

6. Regear diffs so the engine doesnt have to work hard.

Also a fresh, aftermarket low stall torque converter could be helpful.

FWIW, I've had a small shackle lift on my 62 for 17 years now and it's always steered and driven very well IMO.

 

[Fieldtester96]

Also a fresh, aftermarket low stall torque converter could be helpful.

FWIW, I've had a small shackle lift on my 62 for 17 years now and it's always steered and driven very well IMO.

Yeah, i found fluid from the steering stabilizer pooling on itself. So i think i just got a cheap one and the second it got cold the seal cracked. Which would explain why ive been feeling the road more. It still drives fine i just cant get use to the constant feedback that it has now.