Fj 60 carb and intake manifold quote (1 Viewer)

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So your truck has been stripped down to the most basic of basic items need to run. You are missing all of your vacuum lines, the air system has been disabled, and while some of the EGR system is in place its not doing anything other than causing exhaust leaks. Your distributor has no vacuum line so there is no ignition advance....the engine will run but the truck will feel a lot better if it were advancing as intended.

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Also missing the evap canister, the valve cover breather hose is missing, cant tell where the PCV hose is running to. :cautious:
 
Man I really don’t have anymore photos of it. I’ll try and get some when I pick it up on Monday

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I think you are good on photos. What you have posted so far shows that a lot of stuff has been removed from the truck. If you don't have to worry about emissions where you live then honestly you are not that bad off. Theres some small things that should be addressed for performance reasons and so you don't have to breath nasty stuff coming out of the engine.
 
If you don't have to worry about emissions where you live then honestly you are not that bad off

OP should be OK for emissions testing in Texas.

I think I have seen this truck before somewhere. The fuel line by the manifold gave it away.

You should check if the advancer pot works on the distributor. Your truck will thank you if thats hooked up and working. Ask me how I know.

I have had some work done on mine by the Cruiser Specialist down there and liked what I got. I never really wanted to wrench on a vehicle but I have saved so much cash between this forum and doing work myself. No lie what I saved could be approaching what I paid for the truck at this point. Shop time is expensive and that hose is as one banana as it gets. GL.
 
desmogged truck in Texas so missing all that s*** is fine. I did the same and went Weber 38. Mine was dieseling too...had to have them open up the jets up a bit and that allowed me to turn the idle down from 1300 to about 650 where is should be. Deiseling gone and runs great. I went to headers and deleted my cats. Also had a manifold leak and had to replace my manifold gasket. It is good now, but probably will happen again in a couple years. You can replace that hose yourself. I am a s*** mechanic and dont do much myself but have replaced one of those hoses. Pic right after my desmog...have done a few other things under the hood since, but she runs great.
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Paging @ToyotaMatt to the parts courtesy phone.

You can buy brand new Weber 32/36 DGV carbs for $300 - $400 and likely good used ones for less.

Its common for these exhaust manifolds to warp over time....and to machine them properly the intake and exhaust have to be machined together....but $700 sounds very high for this work. Edit.... didn't realize this was just reflecting the labor to remove and install at the shop.

So I just spoke to a machine shop a couple days ago. They’d charge me $100 to resurface the exhaust and intake manifold. Does that sound about right? Appreciate your insight!


Lastly that cooler hose...its nothing fancy and while there still may be a toyota part available its just a rubber coolant hose with a couple of clamps. If you use a new piece of hose and new clamps you are looking at maybe $15 in parts. If the truck is cold and you work quickly you can probably even swap the hose out without losing to much coolant. If I go conservative here we might say 30 minutes of labor and $20 in parts if they have to add some coolant. So maybe $50 - $60 line item.
 
So I just spoke to a machine shop a couple days ago. They’d charge me $100 to resurface the exhaust and intake manifold. Does that sound about right? Appreciate your insight!

Yes, that sounds about right. You should ask them how they are going to do the actual work. The intake and exhaust have to be done togther at the same time and a lot of the places that do this work will tack weld the #1 and #6 exhaust wings to the main manifold to help keep everything in place.

Did you get that set that was for sale in the mud classifieds?
 
desmogged truck in Texas so missing all that s*** is fine. I did the same and went Weber 38. Mine was dieseling too...had to have them open up the jets up a bit and that allowed me to turn the idle down from 1300 to about 650 where is should be. Deiseling gone and runs great. I went to headers and deleted my cats. Also had a manifold leak and had to replace my manifold gasket. It is good now, but probably will happen again in a couple years. You can replace that hose yourself. I am a s*** mechanic and dont do much myself but have replaced one of those hoses. Pic right after my desmog...have done a few other things under the hood since, but she runs great.
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having Cat(s) on a truck that has no EGR or Air injection will only result in clogged cats for the most part. Their functionality is nil once the engine's ability to cycle rich/lean is eliminated. There is just the little federal compliance issue but not a lot of people checking these things these days. ;)
 
If your distributor vacuum advancer is bad I have quite a few new NipponDenso single diaphragm advancers with the proper advance curve. You don't need the dual diaphragm advancer anyway, none of your high altitude compensation (HAC) system is left on the vehicle. PM me and I can set you up with a nice set-up.
 
My tuning experience with a Weber 38 was that it took several evenings to get the tune right. I had to buy the entire jet kit to try a bunch of different jets to get the idle and main jets sorted. So, the rebuild and tuning is could be several hours worth of time for a mechanic.
 

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