I ended up having to wait around a week for a replacement bolt from the local toyota dealership, so I figured I would do the tune up and reseal job I had meant to do in the summer. Why I waited until it got below freezing, who knows. But I was leaking oil at a pretty steady rate and the work needed to get done eventually.
I had ordered a bunch of parts from cdan this summer.
pcv valve/hose, the other hose of the valve cover to tbody
new set of wires
new plug seals
oem plugs gapped to .031
valve cover seal
oil pump seal
crank seal
throttle body gasket
dizzy oring, cap and rotor
Everything came apart relatively smooth for a first timer. Broke the crank bolt using the starter bump, oil pump cover came off without much hassle. Some of the old plug wires were a real sonofabitch to get to come off the plug, but I was probably doing it wrong. Embarrassingly enough, I had never even removed my old plugs When I removed the distributor, I marked the rotor position before and after it got clocked from pulling it out. And the original timing mark. I didn't set the crank to TDC, not sure if that matters or not.
Everything seemed to go back together well. Up onto the point where I broke the valve on the intake next to the PCV hose. I'm not sure what its for (the other end feels like vacuum when running), I meant to look in my FSM but was too mad to be honest lol. I ended up with some kind of serious bush fix by using an old spark plug cap and jamming the hose into it and it onto the fitting. So it probably/definitely isn't helping anything. Pic attached for hilarity and identification purposes. and FYI, that little valve will not support a 280lb man! LOL
The other minor issue I think I may have is I didn't mark the little hoses coming off the EGR to the throttle body. Looks like on the EGR they're labeled P and E and and the throttle body P and R. (I could have that backwards or wrong, running from memory here). So I just connected P to P and let er rip. Truck ran poorly so I tried swapping them around, and it didn't seem to have any effect.
Other then that, I'm not too sure whats up. I've never really messed with an engine and tuning/timing and whatnot. I do have a timing light, but forgot it at home, and the old man only had the old style. So I tried loosening the dizzy bolt and tried advancing and retarding the timing and it didn't seem to help with the rough idle much. But checking the timing is definitely on the list for tomorrow/whenever.
My dad says it sounds/feels like it's missing. I made damn sure I pressed down on those spark plug caps to make sure they were seated,. So I'm not too sure where to begin trouble shooting now. I did have the battery d/c'd for the job, but it's never run like this after the ECU looses power.
Is it safe to pop the plug wires off the distributor to try and figure out if a cylinder is missing? Or am I barking up the wrong tree here? Also, my truck always cranked for a bit before firing up, which I've read should be helped by the new cap and rotor. But it still takes 7-8 cranks before it goes.
Thanks!
I had ordered a bunch of parts from cdan this summer.
pcv valve/hose, the other hose of the valve cover to tbody
new set of wires
new plug seals
oem plugs gapped to .031
valve cover seal
oil pump seal
crank seal
throttle body gasket
dizzy oring, cap and rotor
Everything came apart relatively smooth for a first timer. Broke the crank bolt using the starter bump, oil pump cover came off without much hassle. Some of the old plug wires were a real sonofabitch to get to come off the plug, but I was probably doing it wrong. Embarrassingly enough, I had never even removed my old plugs When I removed the distributor, I marked the rotor position before and after it got clocked from pulling it out. And the original timing mark. I didn't set the crank to TDC, not sure if that matters or not.
Everything seemed to go back together well. Up onto the point where I broke the valve on the intake next to the PCV hose. I'm not sure what its for (the other end feels like vacuum when running), I meant to look in my FSM but was too mad to be honest lol. I ended up with some kind of serious bush fix by using an old spark plug cap and jamming the hose into it and it onto the fitting. So it probably/definitely isn't helping anything. Pic attached for hilarity and identification purposes. and FYI, that little valve will not support a 280lb man! LOL
The other minor issue I think I may have is I didn't mark the little hoses coming off the EGR to the throttle body. Looks like on the EGR they're labeled P and E and and the throttle body P and R. (I could have that backwards or wrong, running from memory here). So I just connected P to P and let er rip. Truck ran poorly so I tried swapping them around, and it didn't seem to have any effect.
Other then that, I'm not too sure whats up. I've never really messed with an engine and tuning/timing and whatnot. I do have a timing light, but forgot it at home, and the old man only had the old style. So I tried loosening the dizzy bolt and tried advancing and retarding the timing and it didn't seem to help with the rough idle much. But checking the timing is definitely on the list for tomorrow/whenever.
My dad says it sounds/feels like it's missing. I made damn sure I pressed down on those spark plug caps to make sure they were seated,. So I'm not too sure where to begin trouble shooting now. I did have the battery d/c'd for the job, but it's never run like this after the ECU looses power.
Is it safe to pop the plug wires off the distributor to try and figure out if a cylinder is missing? Or am I barking up the wrong tree here? Also, my truck always cranked for a bit before firing up, which I've read should be helped by the new cap and rotor. But it still takes 7-8 cranks before it goes.
Thanks!