First time buyer - Too much rust on this diesel beast? (1 Viewer)

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I'm a newbie hunting for my first FJ60 (or Hj60). I used to drive '60s Volvos, so I know what it means to have a "classic" car - and the TLCs have caught my eye!

I'd really like to get a diesel and run it on bio-diesel. I found this HJ60 up in Victoria, but it has rust issues. Take a look:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gsvqqtszgpvaw3a/AACaFzpvpoFW6b5ZozGFzN8Ba#/

Here is what the seller said: "My dad kept the truck in top mechanical shape you could probably drive it across the country right now. The interior is in great shape no cracks in dash, seats have seat covers underneath a bit soiled. I totally agree about rust my dad was getting the rust removed as it appeared but he slacked off the last couple of years. Don't know about frame. There is a file an inch thick with service and repair records it's all up to date and serviced last year"

Here is the original ad:
http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/cto/4518194995.html

Ideally I'd hold out for a rust-free body. But am I really going to find a rust-free original diesel? I missed out on bigmig's :). Any thoughts on what it might cost to mitigate the rust and do all the body work?

Thanks!

Mike
 
That's a lot of rust; there are no pics of the floor boards, under the rear carpet pad, rear of the frame (which is notorious), etc. I'd want some more specifics.

The rust can be repaired, but you'd be dealing with both body and frame repair; as you stated, it is probably easier to just find a clean body and frame with a bad motor and swap the motor/drivetrain.

There are a lot more guys on the site better able to give you some cost estimates for the rust repair, but if you were set on a diesel I'd strongly consider a clean body/frame and then do the swap.

My $0.02
 
Looking at the pics on my phone, the frame pics look decent enough for a Canadian rig. The pictured wheel well and lift gate rust will surely need cut out. We'll need to wait to hear knowledge on the dollar value of a diesel rig in your area to decide if the $$ is worth quite a few $$ in body work. I personally would tackle that sheetmetal and paint job myself for a reasonable reduction in purchase price if the mechanicals are well maintained.
 
Not bad at all. From the pics, it looks like the frame could be cleaned up fairly easily.

There are definitely some pieces that need to be cut out, but nothing too horrible. I've cut out more rust than that so far, and I still have more to go lol. Some parts could be ok .... you'd have to grind it down to see how extensive the damage is.

Definitely check the floor boards as well. Also, check the A-pillars, as the rain gutters like to leak.

Cost wise ... I could give you an idea on replacement panel costs, but labor, etc .... no clue.

A new to you upper hatch would be $200-300. I had some clean quarter panels cut for $100 a piece. I also had my driver's A pillar replacement panel cut for $100. Don't know the conversion these days, but I'm sure it's still in your favor.
 
If you can do the welding yourself and drive it a few years go for it, perfect for biodiesel, drives very smooth on oil.
As I use mine in forests and 4x4 damage trials I dont care to much about a perfect glossy body, I have my wife for that :hillbilly:
If my son sells his dad's truck he will have some issues :cheers:
 
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