First start of engine after rebuild, precautions? (1 Viewer)

[mrsvle]

It's taken almost a year of odd nights and weekends to do a complete engine rebuild on my 83 FJ60. I am nearly finished installing it back in the truck and hooking everything back up and will probably be ready to turn the key this weekend.

Are there any special precautions I should take so I don't fawk up this very expensive and difficult project in 30 seconds.

One thing I was thinking about: when I put coolant in the radiator, there still wont be any in the engine. Wont the engine get hot very rapidly without any coolant surrounding the cylinder walls and head?

The coolant in the radiator wont get very hot because it isn't circulating through the engine so the thermostat isn't going to open.

Do I need to get coolant into the block before I start it up?

Gawd what a long and difficult project, I don't think I can take a major failure at this point.

I'll post some new pics soon.

Matt

 

[roscoFJ73]

It's taken almost a year of odd nights and weekends to do a complete engine rebuild on my 83 FJ60. I am nearly finished installing it back in the truck and hooking everything back up and will probably be ready to turn the key this weekend.

Are there any special precautions I should take so I don't fawk up this very expensive and difficult project in 30 seconds.

One thing I was thinking about: when I put coolant in the radiator, there still wont be any in the engine. Wont the engine get hot very rapidly without any coolant surrounding the cylinder walls and head?

The coolant in the radiator wont get very hot because it isn't circulating through the engine so the thermostat isn't going to open.

Do I need to get coolant into the block before I start it up?

Gawd what a long and difficult project, I don't think I can take a major failure at this point.

I'll post some new pics soon.

Matt

Fill the coolant through the heater hoses at the firewall,its the highest point.
Leave the cap off the radiator till you see coolant at the top of the rad,then put the cap back on and keep filling.

Have your oil pressure gauge connected and watch for pressure. Shut the engine down if you dont see any after 10-15 seconds.

 

[D'Animal]

I would suggest that you leave the battery post connections loose. If you start it and have a wiring short the only way to stop it is to disconnect the battery.

Check and double check fluid levels.

Make sure your distributor is seated correctly.

 

[2mbb]

I don't know about the 2F engine, but when I rebuilt a ford 302 with new valve train and cam, the cam manufacturer had very specific instructions about "running in" the cam. IIRC, I had to run the engine about moderate and changing RPM for 20 or 30 minutes.

Before starting the engine I pulled the distributor and used an electric drill with a special tool to turn the oil pump. This primed the oil pump and got oil circulated though the engine before starting. You might be able to use this technique to confirm that your oil is getting up to your head, etc.

 

[Dave-T]

Bump for an interesting topic.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I pulled the plugs and cranked the starter over for a few seconds and then let it rest and then repeated to get the oil flowing. I thought the pressure would come up after doing that but never did. I had to start it before I could see any readable pressure on the gauge. I hooked up a mechanical gauge so I could get a better reading.

Also like said above make sure your distributor is seated correctly so it turns the oil pump. Make sure the valves are set. Also be ready to adjust the distributor and get the timing close.

 

[Mark W]

If you have put a new cam and lifters in it...
You want to prime the oil pump before attempting to start. You want it timed and adjusted as well as you can so that it start immediately. With careful observation of the tips of the "star" in the distributor, you can time the engine to within a degree or two. Do not turn the engine with the stater and the plugs disconnected. You want the engine to fire off with no delay. Once it starts take it up to 1500-2500 rpm for about 10-15 minutes. Vary the rpm slightly during this period. This is to work harden the surfaces of the cam and lifters. Otherwise the life of these parts will be shortened significantly.

If you fill the cooling system at the radiator cap, the entire engine and radiator will fill. The thermostat does not need to be open to get coolant into the block. There are bypasses and... The lower radiator hose goes to the block too...


Mark...

 

[nikos8]

I believe you have to run it for 20-30 mins at 2000 or rpms for the bearings to sit properly or break in as well as the cam.

 

[mrsvle]

Wow, thanks for all the tips!

I did use a drill to prime the oil pump while the engine was on the stand, I know oil was circulating through the oil cooler though I never actually saw any dribbling out of the rocker arms, from what I read at the time though it's pretty tricky to actually get everything lined up so oil will flow up through the rocker assembly.

Also, I was thinking of shutting it down almost immediately after start up just to check for something disasterous, but it sounds like I should keep it running for a good 20 minutes. The cam, lifters, pistons, and bearings are all new.

One other issue: The gas has been sitting in the tank for about a year now. Still OK? Do I add some fresh gas?

Also, should I prime the carb by dumping some gas in there before I try to start it, or just crank away and let the fuel pump bring it up.

Thanks for the tips. In laws are coming this weekend so start up (E-Day) may be delayed.

Matt

 

[agent orange]

Definitly have fuel in the carb, you dont want to spin a brand new cam without oil for long. I would double check that you are getting oil to the rockers, it may be the motor wasnt turned right but you should find out before you start it.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Do not turn the engine with the stater and the plugs disconnected. ..

You mean with the plugs wires pulled not the plugs removed? If you removed the plugs and crank it over it will oil the engine before actually starting it. I understand if you use a drill or something to prime the oil pump with distributor out but how much does that really oil the engine if things are not turning?

 

[Mark W]

I believe you have to run it for 20-30 mins at 2000 or rpms for the bearings to sit properly or break in as well as the cam.

Nope, this doesn't do anything for the bearings.


Mark...

 

[CruisinFJ60]

on all of the sbc motors i have built i normally start em up and run em for a second to make sure its gonna run then i check everything then fire em back up set timing adjust carb check timing and let it run for a while varring rpms from idle to around 2000

 

[Mark W]

You mean with the plugs wires pulled not the plugs removed? If you removed the plugs and crank it over it will oil the engine before actually starting it. I understand if you use a drill or something to prime the oil pump with distributor out but how much does that really oil the engine if things are not turning?

Priming it with a drill will push oil all the way to and into the bearings. Even just priming the pump itself by backfilling it via an oil filter with the top torn out will be plenty. The assembly lube used when you put it all together will provide all the lubrication the motor needs for the couple/few seconds before the pressure builds.

The problem with cranking the engine over to =turn the oil pump is that the cam and lifters are moving at low speed. You really want a new cam/lifter set to move at high speed immediately. The low speed interaction before they get work hardened leads to accelerated wer later on. Doesn't take much to be significant.

You want the engine to fire up on the first crank (yes, prime the carb... pour gas into the bowl through the vent... whatever spills will prime the intake). And then yoiu want to take it to speed right away. If you need to shut it down, don't bring it down to slow speed before you turn the key off. Just drag the clutch a little as you kill it so that it doesn't try to run on.

If you don't have anew cam/lifter combo, then this is not important and you can start it gently and let it go to normal idle right away.

This is a lot less nerve racking than running in a new cam and trying to watch and listen to everything, hoping that there are not any bad noises that you are missing!


Mark...

 

[kevinmrowland]

Make sure you put fluid in the power steering pump.
Don't ask.

 

[Godwin]

I have a trashed distributor that I've used for priming the oiling system instead of a screwdriver or similar tool. I removed the drive gear on the distributor shaft and stripped off the stuff on top. The body of the distributor gives a nice solid base for turning the shaft via a drill. Works well.


Oh, and turing the key for the first time on a freshly rebuilt engine that you've just put hours and hours and a pile of $$ into has to be one of the most stress-free and relaxing experiences out there .

 

[Okie_dave]

Great timing. Starting a fresh rebuild with a new cam and lifters this weekend. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[nikos8]

Nope, this doesn't do anything for the bearings.


Mark...

OK disregard. I was misinformed then.

 

[doctorjj]

OK disregard. I was misinformed then.

It does help seat in the lifters to the cam lobes, though.

 

[Mark W]

It does help seat in the lifters to the cam lobes, though.

Re-read the thread. That's exactly what we were talking about.

It isn't really a matter of "seating" the lifters and lobes together. They do wear to match, but it takes a lot longer than that.


Mark...