First round of maintenance inquiry

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Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Threads
9
Messages
80
Location
Oregon
New to me FZJ80 with newly built motor from member Fj80oregon, (Wes). Running flawlessly and smooth!! I'm at about 1200 miles on rebuild so getting ready for another oil change. I'm running the Rotella 15W-40 to help the break in...we are currently at 100* down here in So. Oregon and for the foreseeable future. Per Wes's recommendation, he suggested replacing both differentials and transfer case fluids and front sway bar bushings in the near future...which brings me here now.

I purchased the sway bar bushing kit from Wits End...yes, it arrived! :) A couple of questions:

1) The kit I purchased consists of front and rear sway bar bushings and front and rear sway bar end link bushings. There are two sets of cushion bushings, front and rear in the kit. Both are nearly identical but one set is slightly thicker at the bottom. Thicker set is labeled 25 the other is labeled 29. Any idea which is front and rear? 80 Series Swaybar Bushing Kit - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-swaybar-bushing-kit/

2) While I'm under there, replacing the bushings in that kit, should I be replacing more than what's in the kit I purchased? I don't want to be counter productive. If I'm down there wrenching on things to replace those bushings, what else is recommended?

This is just kind of phase one, I'm going to replace the OME shocks and springs with a Dobinson IMS kit, (mild, nothing big...variable rate springs @ 2".) I'm also probably going balls deep on caster correction with the Delta radius arms...entirely overkill for my intended purpose but it makes me feel good to hit a homer. Just want to think ahead so I'm not stepping over my own left foot more than once.

What say you? This is also my first 80.
 
Both are nearly identical but one set is slightly thicker at the bottom. Thicker set is labeled 25 the other is labeled 29. Any idea which is front and rear?
I've done those. Looking at your existing parts and comparing with the new parts should make it clear which is which (tho I don't recall a specific a diff with OEM parts).
2) While I'm under there, replacing the bushings in that kit, should I be replacing more than what's in the kit I purchased? I don't want to be counter productive. If I'm down there wrenching on things to replace those bushings, what else is recommended?
No. One thing at a time; with time between times. For reference sake.
I'm going to replace the OME shocks and springs with a Dobinson IMS kit, (mild, nothing big...variable rate springs @ 2".)... Just want to think ahead so I'm not stepping over my own left foot more than once.
No need caster correction on 2" lift. If that's your homer, you're good to go with just the lift and refreshing factory bushings on everything.
 
Should be able to tell by looking at the sway bars, that’s a 16% difference In bar diameter. Calipers if you have them. IIRC I just compared the new to what i removed, sorry I don’t remember which was the thicker of the two.
 
Just did this and the front bar is larger. There will be more to disconnect with the front than the rear. I had to completely remove the front bar to replace the bushings in the end holes, for the rear I was able to do one side at a time. In working on the front I found the ball joint hangers to be worn so I replaced those also.
 
Thanks all. One last question, after looking through the FSM, it's indicating I need to jack the vehicle up, remove the wheels, to remove the sway bar or to at least replace the bushings. I'm guessing that's entirely unnecessary.
 
Thanks all. One last question, after looking through the FSM, it's indicating I need to jack the vehicle up, remove the wheels, to remove the sway bar or to at least replace the bushings. I'm guessing that's entirely unnecessary.
You can do the rear without removing the wheels. The front is probably possible too but looking at it having the wheels out of the way would give you move room to work. Particularly if you replace the ball joints hangers as suggested above, which I would also recommend.
 
Thanks all. One last question, after looking through the FSM, it's indicating I need to jack the vehicle up, remove the wheels, to remove the sway bar or to at least replace the bushings. I'm guessing that's entirely unnecessary.

You can do all of this with wheels on the ground and laying under the 80. Front bar, passenger side will require the loosening of a small bracket (ABS?) to facilitate removal of the long bolt attaching the sway bar to the axle.
 
Thanks all for the help...well, I got through most of what needed to be done. Oil changed...filter was as bad as advertised. F and R diffs, transfer case and Dobinson steering damper. I'll tackle the bushings tomorrow.
 
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